Chainsaw chain application question

[HR-OLIFANT]

I have a Stihl MS290 farm boss on hand with 16, 18 and 20" bars and chains at the ready. I use this primarily for felling and bucking of cord wood. I live in a 1795 Virginia farmhouse and am planning to reconstruct an authentic summer kitchen in the original location. Though I plan on staying true to most aspects of construction in a historical sense I realize that purchasing store bought lumber brings about two issues: cost and aesthetics. I have access to some harvestable timber and would like to rip some lumber from these trees.

If I use one of the many devices out there to cut planks with my saw, do I need to switch to a different bar/chain set up? I am running rollomatic bars and their partnered "green" chains per Stihl recommendations. Is there a different tooth style that would be better suited for this?

I would like to be versatile in my set up to cut blanks to be hand finished for beams, posts and blocks that will eventually be split for siding using a froe.

What do you guys think?

Also, I cannot afford to purchase a new saw right now but would like some recommendations on a model to upgrade to in the future. I favor Stihl as I have never had one let me down, and the company itself always treated me well when performing some contracted work at their headquarters, but would consider others if their cost to features evaluation outweighed that of Stihl.

Thanks,
Andrew

 

[Weedhopper]

If you have timber and want boards, have a guy with a portable sawmill come over and cut it up for you.

My neighbor at the shop takes down trees when he installs septic systems and he accumulated enough timber to build a gorgeous two story barn. Two days with the sawmill and he had all of the wood cut.

 

[bigndn]

I use a skip tooth chain for falling, limbing, and bucking. I accidentally bought a full comp chain once. 2X the cutting teeth. I was told it cuts cleaner, but not as fast, plus you obviously have to sharpen more teeth.

2nd vote for the portable mill, though. That really makes quick work out it.

 

[D'Animal]

LOL


Full Skip on a 16", 18" or 20" bar? You would have about 12 teeth on each side and would not get anything cut.

I use a skip tooth chain for falling, limbing, and bucking. I accidentally bought a full comp chain once. 2X the cutting teeth. I was told it cuts cleaner, but not as fast, plus you obviously have to sharpen more teeth.

 

[D'Animal]

What size are you chains?

The side of the cutter tooth will say .325 or 3/8".
Depending on what you have will depend on my answer.

I have a Stihl MS290 farm boss on hand with 16, 18 and 20" bars and chains at the ready. I use this primarily for felling and bucking of cord wood.

I live in a 1795 Virginia farmhouse and am planning to reconstruct an authentic summer kitchen in the original location. Though I plan on staying true to most aspects of construction in a historical sense I realize that purchasing store bought lumber brings about two issues: cost and aesthetics. I have access to some harvestable timber and would like to rip some lumber from these trees.


Thanks,
Andrew

 

[RavenTai]

you are going to find a MS 290 is inadequate for milling,

there is special milling chain out there that is more efficient

lots of info here,
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62

 

[bigndn]

LOL


Full Skip on a 16", 18" or 20" bar? You would have about 12 teeth on each side and would not get anything cut.

It would bed really fast sharpening, though.

 

[HR-OLIFANT]

What size are you chains?

The side of the cutter tooth will say .325 or 3/8".
Depending on what you have will depend on my answer.

I am running .325 currently. If I switched to 3/8" would I need to swap sprockets as well? I took down some oaks yesterday, both around 20" diameter and the saw really had trouble with the 20" bar. It is definitely a happier machine running the 16" set up. I am guessing that I need to upgrade to a much more powerful model for what I want to do. I think I can drop and buck them with my set up but would be headed on a path to frustration and destruction trying to rip lumber with this saw.

 

[D'Animal]

How much lumber are you looking to mill?

Just a few cants or a bunch of lumber?

 

[romegadave]

How much lumber are you looking to mill?

Just a few cants or a bunch of lumber?

I wondered this too.......I guess the curing time for the lumber varies with the region (and type of wood). I wonder what the average curing time for lumber cut from portable lumber mills?

 

[D'Animal]

I depends on when you cut the trees as well. If you cut the trees when they are dormant, there is less sap/moisture in them. If you cut the trees when they are full of leaves, they are full of sap/water and takes longer to dry. Wet or fresh logs are easier to mill but the lumber generally warps and end checks more.

I wondered this too.......I guess the curing time for the lumber varies with the region (and type of wood). I wonder what the average curing time for lumber cut from portable lumber mills?

 

[bigndn]

I depends on when you cut the trees as well. If you cut the trees when they are dormant, there is less sap/moisture in them. If you cut the trees when they are full of leaves, they are full of sap/water and takes longer to dry. Wet or fresh logs are easier to mill but the lumber generally warps and end checks more.

True. Have you noticed less warping from stickering and strapping the boards?

For those who don't know, 'stickering' is placing small slats between each layer of boards and separating them just a little bit so air can flow.....strapping is wrapping the load with ratcheting tie straps tightly to prevent warping during the drying process.

We stickered and strapped a bunch of my neighbors larch/fir he had milled and it stayed pretty straight. The strapping was really easy with the 4X6's. I stickered a bunch of ponderosa pine lumber (2X4s) I had cut and it didn't warp much, if at all.

All that being said, it would depend how much lumber you want milled as to whether it would be more cost effective to bring the mill onsite or have you trailer the logs over to his location.

 

[D'Animal]

I stick all of my milled lumber and restack and restick (in different position on the board) it every 6 months until it is about 2 years old. In the first 6 months it really helps prevent cuping of the boards.

I have found that strapping is good but when the lumber dries, the strap is loose.

 

[HR-OLIFANT]

I think that I will find someone with a portable mill for this one. I can take down what I need now, buck it and drag it up to the barn area where it will be stacked once cut. I don't know that exact amount I need, but the kitchen is going to be @ 12' x 20' with a 4' masonry foundation and 10' ceiling where it meets the walls with a peak height nearing 17'. I also have some barn repair to do, so I will do some research on how to calculate usable lumber based on existing tree dimensions and take down what I think I will need, plus 10% or so ffor the future.

On a side note, as far as beams go, would you rough cut them and age before hewing them? I would think they would need to be nearing their final moisture percentage numbers before you get to final dimension cuts.

 

[D'Animal]

That is too much lumber to mill with the MS 290, regardless of the chain. I can see you spending well over $1,000 by the time you buy the Alaskin 2 Saw Mill Attachment and a saw capable of running it (MS 460 is the minimum).

As mentioned, contact to local portable saw mill guys. Several guys are in the lumber business and will charge you 10% - 15% of the lumber they mill. They will generally keep the Grade AAA lumber. If this is the case, you will have to fell a few more trees than you may need to get the quantity you want. Other charge by the board foot, others charge by the hour.

I think that I will find someone with a portable mill for this one. I can take down what I need now, buck it and drag it up to the barn area where it will be stacked once cut. I don't know that exact amount I need, but the kitchen is going to be @ 12' x 20' with a 4' masonry foundation and 10' ceiling where it meets the walls with a peak height nearing 17'. I also have some barn repair to do, so I will do some research on how to calculate usable lumber based on existing tree dimensions and take down what I think I will need, plus 10% or so ffor the future.

On a side note, as far as beams go, would you rough cut them and age before hewing them? I would think they would need to be nearing their final moisture percentage numbers before you get to final dimension cuts.

Yes