Carb help

[exrsa1]

Greetings, now that I sold my 40, the 60 that I purchased, mostly in boxes is all together and I have the 2.5" lift in, 33X10.50 tires on black steel wheels will be here tomorrow, front non winch ARB will be here Friday, rear bumper and sliders being fabbed by 2badfjs as we speak. I am putting it back to stock as far as the engine goes, and will remove the non USA carb and dizzy. I have a 'new' JimC dizzy and soon as I get a stock carb from somewhere, I will add it in. I have all the emmissions back in too, just have to get the air pump and rail in.

Brakes need work and I need a rear hatch licence light bar/handle. It seems that cruiserparts.net is offline, since I can't get to their page.

SO here is where I need some help. First, anyone have a carb from the 81-85 vintage they want to part with, that preferably won't need a rebuild? Second, I need some assistance on the brake system. It's pulsating when I brake. I bled them, made sure no vacuum leak. Pads seem ok, but I'm guessing that the calipers and rear drums may need a rebuild.

I have the following to offer as trade or sale for your services or parts I need. 3 speed bellhousing, 3speed transfercase, never installed 'poser' transfercase saver, never installed sm420 kit to bolt up to 3 speed bellhousing, complete 1978 4speed tranny/transfercase with brake drum. The non USA carb and downey flame thrower dizzy will also be available. I also have a jacobs 'off-road' energy pack with coil.


Thanks
Brian

 

[Eddy]

Is the SM420 to 3 speed a plate adaptor between the SM420 and 3speed tcase? I would be interested. Also interested in the tcase saver.

PM me.

Thanks

Ed -

 

[exrsa1]

It's the ring that goes between the SM420 and 3 speed toyota bellhousing, and two other parts. I purchased it from a company in Canada. Let me see if I can find a picture of it.

I'll PM you on the tcase saver

Brian

 

[Craig C]

Have your rotors checked. That will cause pedal pulsations
CC

 

[exrsa1]

Brakes

Thx, I will have them all checked and machined.

Brian

 

[Eddy]

x2 on the rotors. I would just be careful on how far they turn them down. The fronts on my Sienna were turned down but then after 6 months later they were pulsing. I can't complain - I got 90K miles on the original pads and rotors.... I am now looking to replace them. I think others have bought rotors from the cheaper web sites, don't know how well they work / hold up.

 

[Craig C]

Cheap rotors are probably alright but don't buy cheap pads. I prefer OEM pads. Most places will check the rotor thickness and will not turn them below minimum specs. If the rotors are held on by the wheel and the lug nuts they should be torqued with a torque wrench or they would wear and start pulsating again, at least they used to.

 

[exrsa1]

Thanks guys, I have the rotors and drums off to have machined if possible. The pads and shoes are pretty new. PO must have changed them and not had rotors done at the same time.

 

[Bob_Garrett]

Nornally, you shouldn't need to turn the rotors when replacing pads. I don't have any experience with 60s, but on 80s, if the rotor is warped enough to create pulsating, turning will likely only provide a temporary fix.

I have been running cheap rotors (with OEM pads) on my mini with no problems. Not sure if I would be comfortable running them on a wagon (due to the greater weight).