carb and park brake issues

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nuclearlemon

not an addict
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i suck at carbs and i have a carb issue...87 4x4 with a 22r carbed motor. passed emissions a year ago, but has been sitting for over 7 months.

fires right up, idle is rough and spits black smoke. plugs are black and fuzzy, dry carbon, exhaust tip and the rust holes in the exhaust all have excessive carbon.

when driving and accelerating, it feels smooth, but driving at a steady speed, it feels like it misses. a friend mentioned idle circuit as being a possible culprit. is there an easy way to fix that, or do i have to pull it and have it rebuilt?

also, ebrake isn't working. i tried adjusting it at the bellcrank (next to frame, right side, where bed and cab meet), but that just adjusted the handle and it still doesn't activate the e brake. with the cab handle pulled, truck still rolled. i pulled the cable between the wheels and the levers moved and activated the ebrake. that leads me to believe the problem is in the cable between the bellcrank and the connection at the axle....am i headed in the right direction? is there a common problem? also, the levers at the wheels don't move very far and when e brake is "off", the lever sits halfway inside it's slotted area, it doesn't go towards the wheel. how much movement should there be?

i haven't had the wheel off, that will most likely happen this weekend, but service brakes feel like they work good and i believe in afterthought that i heard the rears lock up when i flew up to a wet sandy intersection the other day.
 
are your arms on the axel working freely , i had rust buildup underneath the rubber cover, had to take pivot pins out . and clean up the rust . also would you just happen to have some 4.56 gears, you might want to trade for a 8000lb. superwinch
 
i'll check under the boots. they don't seem to move freely towards the backing plate, but when i pull the cable, they move outwards and engage brake.

sorry, extra 4.56's are going into my piggie
 
Hmmm, there was a pretty good article about the Aisin carbs in one of the 4wd Toyota Owners mags...not sure if they have online reprints available or not. Basically listed common culprits and a couple shops that rebuild.
 
make sure the shoes are adjusted snug against the drums.
parking brake wont work to well if thier loose.

the levers on these trucks all all a pain in the butt to release.
at least in all the ones i own, and the ones i see come into the shop.

as far as the carb prob. i dont have any good suggestions.
except for verifing proper operation of the EGR system.
:confused:
 
As others have mentioned, likely suspect is the levers at the wheel. They have a spring on them and should retract fully (or as far as the cable will let them). It's a common problem on the older trucks.
 
a friend is rebuilding my carb for me...may have found one of the reasons it ran like crap...it was so nasty inside, he had to scrub it after soaking it...oh, yeah, then there was the spider's nest that he found in it. :doh:
 
you need an aap diaphram .three small phillips head scews in a triangle pattern bolt it to the carb .a single vacum hose on it remove air filter housing you should see it
 
toytech164 said:
you need an aap diaphram .three small phillips head scews in a triangle pattern bolt it to the carb .a single vacum hose on it remove air filter housing you should see it
is that in the rebuild kit? he's got the kit and is doing a rebuild for me. got it together the other night and checked it and said the secondary butterfly's were slow closing, so he was going to look at it again last night. i'll find out in another couple hours if he got it done.
 
carb's on, runs much better, but how long should the idle be high....seems i have to drive it a good five minutes before it drops when stopped...also, still a little bit of black smoke at startup, but don't really see any after it's been run. i'll try to take it next week to get it e tested.
 
just passed emissions with flying colors!!! wooooohhooooooo!!!!!
 

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