Could someone with 315’s(35’s) measure from center hub to fender well on both front fenders? We are back from a trip and I think my Torsion bars still need to be adjusted down.
Thanks,
Tommy
Thanks,
Tommy
Can someone with 315’s do a fender measurement?
- Thread starter TEC3
- Start date
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Well, my 285/85r16’s measure 21.5” from the center. The way I understand, the tire size doesn’t really affect the tbar setup. The idea is to raise the front as much as you can while still having 60-70mm of availible down travel in the front suspension. My measurement is similar to other 100’s cranked but with the down travel. With 315’s of course there gonna be rub if your not as high as possible. Mine tends to settle after each adjustment so I drive it a day or two and adjust until its right.
- Thread starter
- #3
Right,
I’m sitting at 22.5 and do not have rubbing with 315’s. Need to measure my down travel.
Wanting to drop a little more to eliminate the last bits of some Torque steer.
Long story short had a shop do my lift, they cranked it to 24.5, ate CV’s while driving cross country, had horrible wandering and torque steer. I lowered to 22.5, trimmed a bunch and got an alignment and drove it 2000 miles home. It is much better, but I am going to tweak it some to try and get my CV’s to have less angle, but still actually off-road the truck.
Was hoping to get a baseline measurement to make adjustments, I don’t want to keep adjusting and aligning... alignments get expensive
If I can’t go lower, I’m going to consider a part time conversion.
I also need to find a new front sway bar. The shop cut mine off because it kept contacting the driveshaft when flexed... they didn’t do extended links.
So any help for the issues above would be awesome. I know I screwed up not doing it myself, but was strapped for time.
I’m sitting at 22.5 and do not have rubbing with 315’s. Need to measure my down travel.
Wanting to drop a little more to eliminate the last bits of some Torque steer.
Long story short had a shop do my lift, they cranked it to 24.5, ate CV’s while driving cross country, had horrible wandering and torque steer. I lowered to 22.5, trimmed a bunch and got an alignment and drove it 2000 miles home. It is much better, but I am going to tweak it some to try and get my CV’s to have less angle, but still actually off-road the truck.
Was hoping to get a baseline measurement to make adjustments, I don’t want to keep adjusting and aligning... alignments get expensive
If I can’t go lower, I’m going to consider a part time conversion.
I also need to find a new front sway bar. The shop cut mine off because it kept contacting the driveshaft when flexed... they didn’t do extended links.
So any help for the issues above would be awesome. I know I screwed up not doing it myself, but was strapped for time.
- Thread starter
- #4
And you mean 60-70mm right? So roughly 2-2.5” of Down travel?
Yes, I mean mm and your about right on with the conversion 24.5mm is an inch.
Wow, sorry to hear your experience.
I have a few tips: (in order)
1st you maybe able to find a used front sway bar at a junk yard. Try car-part.com as it is a site lots of yards sell on. The passenger side eye on the sway bars catch the ac water and rot out faster than the other side. Check that before you buy it.
2nd TrailTailor (on the forum) makes a set of extended mounts for the front swaybar. If they also cut those away.
2.5nd Firestone has a vehical specific lifetime alignment for about $115.
3rd Look up the pinch weld mod on the forum as its typically done with 315’s
4th Look up the body lift mod as its typically done with 315’s.
Wow, sorry to hear your experience.
I have a few tips: (in order)
1st you maybe able to find a used front sway bar at a junk yard. Try car-part.com as it is a site lots of yards sell on. The passenger side eye on the sway bars catch the ac water and rot out faster than the other side. Check that before you buy it.
2nd TrailTailor (on the forum) makes a set of extended mounts for the front swaybar. If they also cut those away.
2.5nd Firestone has a vehical specific lifetime alignment for about $115.
3rd Look up the pinch weld mod on the forum as its typically done with 315’s
4th Look up the body lift mod as its typically done with 315’s.
- Thread starter
- #6
Looking as we type for a sway bar, not sure why they didn’t correct the issue instead of cutting it to clear the drive shaft. They pulled mounts, end links, everything.
2. I need to see if I have a fire stone locally. Small town.
3. I cut and hammered the pinch weld flat, but may do more. I have a welder
4. I went ahead and had them do a 1” body lift when they did lift so I’m good there. I really think they just cranked up the bars and said “that will clear” and just said it was done.
If you did the pinchweld and 1” body lift you should be ok once you lower and get the down travel. Most of you steering issues will be gone once you get lower. Some folks run minus a sway bar but I run the extended mounts and love it at speed.
- Thread starter
- #8
Just so I make sure sure I’m measuring correctly.
On ground I’m center hub to fender well, then put on a jack, lift until tire leaves ground and measure the same measurement?
On ground I’m center hub to fender well, then put on a jack, lift until tire leaves ground and measure the same measurement?
Yes, if you are lifting from the frame. It just had to be said to make sure.
- Thread starter
- #11
Care to check shipping to 37760?
- Thread starter
- #12
Lol, I know. And yes I would be lifting from frame to allow travel of the suspension
I do need to find extended bump stops front and rear to limit up travel if you have suggestions there.
No specifics on bumpstops. 1st idea is use the old ones and just extend the mount in a removable way.
