can anyone ID this CL Specialized Stumpjumper?

[RavenTai]

I might take a look at this one tomorrow, anyone have any rough idea on year and specific model and weight? good value overall? I don't know much about the components by name but have ridden various levels of bikes from blue light specials to high end and know good components are worth having, was kinda looking for disk brakes at this price range but well,

Specialized Stumpjumper mountain bike


I need to knock some weight off (myself), have not had a bike since I was 17, never had a good one, used to ride all over the county, now mainly just going to riding around town, gonna try to replace shot trips in the cruiser with bike rides. I guess a road bike would be more appropriate but i never found those comfortable, would be nice to be able to work over curbs, grass, sand etc anyway.

 

[wxm]

Looks like a late 90's. The price seems to me on the high side. With this economy, there are plenty of good deals on CL in the price range. If you have disc-brake in mind, I'd wait for a better match. I can't tell from the picture about the front shock, but it doesn't look a much high end either. The XT's are the second in line from Shimano's mountain components. They are OK. The LX's are pretty much garbage. But it is probably not big deal for the front; how often you shift the front gears anyway! As of the frame, I personally prefer a more recent year StumpJumper, or rather getting an early to mid 90's steel (Cro-moly) frame. (Though you might not be able to find a disc brake ready frame from the earlier years).

Just my $0.02.

 

[RavenTai]

Thank you, I'll keep looking,

 

[RavenTai]

2008 Giant Rainier w/disc

wish this was a 19"


why steel (cro molly) ? is the ride that much better to make up for the added weight? does it matter for pavement pounding?

looked at a Jamis Allegro 1x at a shop today, if they had had a 19" i might have been tempted.

 

[wxm]

That is a nice one. Nice to have the 100mm travel fork too. I am not to excited about the other gears. But this would be a perfect starting point. Put most of the money on the frameset; the other components can be upgraded later on.

Debating between aluminum vs steel is a forever topic. Bicycle Frame Materials - Steel, Aluminum, Titanium and Carbon Fiber, by Sheldon Brown. Whether it is worth for the extra weight? Honestly, probably not. Still, I am big fan of steel mostly because the look. I don't like big fat frame tube. But that is again personal preference. That's said, with the high yield point, the steel frame does give you extra room for any modification. Say you want to try a 120mm track wheel on a 126mm rear spacing. You can pretty much bolt it down without damaging the frame (not recommended but doable. Try that on an aluminum frame!).

 

[RavenTai]

That is a nice one. Nice to have the 100mm travel fork too. I am not to excited about the other gears. But this would be a perfect starting point. Put most of the money on the frameset; the other components can be upgraded later on.

that makes a lot of sense to me, one part at a time as budget allows is the only way I'll ever get a high end bike, if ever.

Thanks for the info on frame material, most of the used bikes here is AL, so that is probably where I will wind up at, sounds liek if I was actually on a mountain hitting rocks etc that may be a problem but no danger of that here, biggest threat is a 6" curb,

 

[RavenTai]

out of my price range but interesting, older carbon full suspension

Trek bike

at the oher end of the spectrum the simplicity of the monocog 29er has me interested, like the clean looks price is right also. being a flat lander I could probably forgo gears for most situations.

REDLINE BICYCLES › MTB › 2010 MONOCOG 29ER

been reading sheldonbrown.com you linked to very good site for those just starting out.

 

[wxm]

out of my price range but interesting, older carbon full suspension

Trek bike

at the oher end of the spectrum the simplicity of the monocog 29er has me interested, like the clean looks price is right also. being a flat lander I could probably forgo gears for most situations.

REDLINE BICYCLES › MTB › 2010 MONOCOG 29ER

been reading sheldonbrown.com you linked to very good site for those just starting out.

Don't know much about the Trek, but the Redline Monocog 29ER has very good reviews. But my concerns is whether it performs well on the pave road as it has a single gear. With this gear ratio, I don't know whether it is a day-in-day-out kind of bikes unless you live in a very hilly area. Again, I don't own one; it is just my observation and it could be quite subjective.

 

[RavenTai]

This poped up sun night on CL, Picked it up today, Specialized "Hardrock Sport" with disk brakes, was missing the seat, one shifter is missing the cover, tires had no air pressure, scratched up and at least a years worth of garage dust on top of put away dirty, I don't think any of the components are "good" but I got it for $165, AL frame, seams reasonably light, shifters are marked shimano acera, shock RST gila plus-t3, crank truvative x-flo, brakes "tektro" whoever that is.

on the way home got a seat, cable lock and new grips washed it aired it up and promptly took a ride to harbor freight down the road, maybe a mile, brakes made noise at first but quieted down, shifts great, my first bike with indexing shifters, even without the indicator that is neat, hit a button it changes one gear right now, no vague push and hope you get the right gear, like the paint job, bronze and black decent looking but not too flashy,

I am tickled for the price,

The Craigs list pics:

 

[wxm]

Cool.

Now a couple of places that might be interesting you for parts sources:

(1) pricepoint.com - good source for break/shift cables, tube/tires
(2) jensonusa.com - good for small parts for components, gears.
(3) wheelworld.com - look for sale (good price for handle bar, wheelset etc.).

Of course, there is always eBay.

Have fun riding...

 

[Topoguide]

Congrats on the purchase! Sounds like you have a good bike there, and from what I got from your posts it will be well suited to your riding style.

You are correct that the components are not the "best"... but that doesn't mean their no good; if you maintain them properly they will probably last a long time. The disc brakes are mechanical (operated via cable) and the Shimano Acera is a step below the LX (but still function well), etc., so assuming your not a total gear head you'll love your new ride.

I had a bike quite a while ago with the same level components and with proper maintenance and a little finesse on the trails I rode that bike many many miles on some pretty fun and technical trails without a single failure.

Also if/when you decide to replace anything on it, whether from breakage or you just get the "bug", I would recommend staying with "budget" parts (up to the LX level) and just do proper maintenance... that way you can save your money for a bike with upgraded components and maybe an even lighter frame









Oh and when you get the "bug" check out reverse throw rear derailleurs. I'll never go back to normal throw

 

[RavenTai]

Lost 5 pounds already, and I notice I have more energy,

Have done a few changes and additions, by the time I got the seat where I wanted it for good pedaling the bars where too low lot of weight on my palms, looking for a more upright ride got a 5" lift handlebar at my LBS, kinda funny looking and wide but comfy, got a cheap wired computer for $10, having a speedometer/odometer/trip meter on a bike is really cool, no such thing existed last time I had a bike, also picked up frame mountable pump, patch kit tire levers a bike multi tool and bag to put them in, hopefully should be able to take care of most problems,

been riding short trips, many less than 2 miles few times a week, video store, restaurants etc, one off day I took it to south beach, had a great time cruising around and people watching, we may not have mountains here but topless girls make for a much better scenery than rocks and tumble weed, beach sand sucked with the previous tires that came with it even in the vehicle hard pack area at the top of the beach, 270 pounds of bike and rider just sunk into the sand, ordered some schwalbe "Big Apples" 26x2.35, widest they make, hoping the width will do better in hard packed sand, cushy balloon tire ride is a nice bonus, also like the reflective sidewalls,

ordered a few tools from Amazon, cassette, bottom bracket, flat wrenches for the bearing cones, crank puller and chain whip, oil and grease, went through the whole bike, cleaned a re lubed everything,

got some problem area's,

The bearings in the bottom bracket are toast, was able to get some improvement by dribbling some oil into the "sealed" bearings, it will work for now, I could just get a mid range tapered square bottom bracket for not much $ but the non drive side crank was creaking badly the tapered square is worn/galled, cleaned off all the dirt oil and grease and tightened the s*** out of it and the creak is gone for now, from what I read once worn it will come back, also feels like I need longer cranks, formulas say I need just over 180MM for my inseam, current cranks are 175mm,

Is 5mm change noticeable? seams like not much a difference, will 5mm make cranks that seam a bit short feel just right right? options over 180MM are rare and get pricey,

If I am going to change the BB and cranks anyway should I look at ISIS or other splined systems or just stay with square taper?

I see a lot of used road bike cranks on E-bay, assuming correct BB diameter and width are these compatible with MTB frames? is the spacing of the chian rings correct? what exactly is the difference?


the chain is stretched gonna replace it at the same time as the cranks, rear cassette looks much newer than the rest of the driveling, no wear at all,

the brakes are not very good, later down the road my get some avid BB7's they get good reviews and don't seam to cost too much.

think I need a rack on the back

 

[wxm]

Again, nice found. I am jealous now.

5mm difference of crankarm isn't much. You aren't likely to feel the difference. The 180mm isn't a popular length, you are paying premium for that. I would stay with 175mm. Not to mention that the longer the crankarm, the greater likelyhood for pedal hitting the ground when turning. (Had an accident years ago, and broke my shoulder ).

The bottom bracket needs to go with the crankset. If you are replacing the cranks, you can of course change to ISIS (most popular these days), or other spline BB. You can even try the newer integrated crank/bb set within $100 budget (if be patient enough on eBay). There is a couple of parameters to pay attention when shopping for a bottom bracket:

• Spindle length. It needs to be compatible with cranksets and usually the crank maker will tell you what length is recommended. (This is less critical for multi gear bike as for the single gear, as the shifter can be used to compensate the mismatch).
• Length of the bottom bracket. This is determined by the bottom bracket shell of the frame. You can just measure the frame yourself
• Thread (English thread or Italian thread).

The latter two spec should be also printed on your current BB when you take it out. You may also contact Specialized for the spec if you can't google it out. BTW, the non-drive side of the BB is reverse threaded. Also a side note that not all square taper BB are made equal. There are the ISO square taper by Campy or Sugino 75; or the JIS used by most of the other Japanese makers. (IIRC, ISO is slightly smaller than JIS). Since you are replacing the crankset, this is probably less of the issue in your case.

The old race bike square BB should be working fine, assuming you match the parameters mentioned above. The main difference for road vs mountain is that one trades weight for the toughness. There is actually less difference in the old days. In fact, I prefer the old BB as I can repack the bearing, replace the balls if needed.