Caliper line and ABS flush using Techstream

[LBridges]

I have read most, if not all, the threads on bleeding the brakes. I feel pretty confidant that using Techstream bleeds the ABS at the same time as the lines. I took Techstream far enough that it asked me to select which line FR, FL, RR, or RL and IIRC correctly it hinted at the 4 second period in which the solenoid for the selected wheel is open (2 seconds of actual fluid flow). Pretty sure my trucks fluid has never been touched so I want to clean it all out. I have quite a few years experience bleeding using the "assistant, pump three times and hold" method, but would really like to learn "the Toyota way" using Techstream (and of course I'm curious and want to learn).

So, finally getting to my question. Would the process in the 2004 FSM for the LC also apply to my 2000 LX, e.g., no pumping, just hold the pedal, open & then closing the bleeder while Techstream does its thing?

Refresher for those who haven't seen the FSM for a while...

(g) Bleed right front brake line.
(1) Select ”FR LINE” on the TOYOTA hand-held tester.
(2) With ”FR LINE” turned ON with the TOYOTA hand-held tester, depress the brake pedal and hold it to bleed the right front brake caliper.
(3) Repeat step (2) until there are no more air bubbles in the fluid.

(h) Bleed left front brake line.
(1) Select ”FL LINE” on the TOYOTA hand-held tester.
(2) With ”FL LINE” turned ON with the TOYOTA hand-held tester, depress the brake pedal and hold it to bleed the left front brake caliper.
(3) Repeat step (2) until there are no more air bubbles in the fluid.

(i) w/ ABS & TRAC & VSC only:
Bleed rear brake line.
(1) Select ”RR LINE” on the TOYOTA hand-held tester.
(2) With ”RR LINE” turned ON with the TOYOTA hand-held tester, bleed the left and right rear brake caliper.

 

[PADDO]

I've done the Techstream ABS bleeding as per the FSM extract above and it works - or at least the 4 second counter times off, solenoids click and fluid pulses out at the respective caliper. Now my interpretation of this tragically written piece of JapEnglish of a procedure is that an "ordinary" brake bleed - ignition on, pedal depressed (not pumped) and bleeder opened- is achieved without using Techstream by following the prompts in Point 2 immediately preceding the "with hand held tester" stuff. It's the section with bolded Bleed Hydraulic Brake Booster where parts (d) and (e) direct you to Step 4 on the last page where you Bleed Brake Line. So, if you can follow that... Anyway the order of attack for me when doing a brake fluid exchange has been to do the "Bleed Brake Line" at each corner bit, then go back with Techstream hooked up and bleed as per the fsm steps you quoted. At the end of this I usually end up with a quart or so of brake fluid that's been through the system, I've heard ABS solenoids click on/off via Techstream and I usually imagine my brake pedal feel is better.

 

[LBridges]

thank you. Will try to get one of my boys to drop by and play assistant this weekend.

 

[LBridges]

I've done the Techstream ABS bleeding as per the FSM extract above and it works - or at least the 4 second counter times off, solenoids click and fluid pulses out at the respective caliper. Now my interpretation of this tragically written piece of JapEnglish of a procedure is that an "ordinary" brake bleed - ignition on, pedal depressed (not pumped) and bleeder opened- is achieved without using Techstream by following the prompts in Point 2 immediately preceding the "with hand held tester" stuff. It's the section with bolded Bleed Hydraulic Brake Booster where parts (d) and (e) direct you to Step 4 on the last page where you Bleed Brake Line. So, if you can follow that... Anyway the order of attack for me when doing a brake fluid exchange has been to do the "Bleed Brake Line" at each corner bit, then go back with Techstream hooked up and bleed as per the fsm steps you quoted. At the end of this I usually end up with a quart or so of brake fluid that's been through the system, I've heard ABS solenoids click on/off via Techstream and I usually imagine my brake pedal feel is better.

Much thanks. The old fluid has a dark caramel color, and from the looks of the old calipers/pads I'd say the truck never had anything done to the brakes except push the pistons back and slap in some new pads (broken retaining springs, etc.). I wanted to get a good new baseline, so I replaced the rubber hoses with stainless, rebuilt the calipers, put on new pads (with shim kits) and all new rotors. Then I used a vacuum pump to pull out as much old fluid from the master cylinder as my hose would reach. Refilled with new DOT 3 then proceeded to follow your advice. After using almost a half-gallon of brake fluid I'm feeling pretty good about the system. Now maybe I suck at bleeding, but for the front right, I still got a few bubbles upon using the Techstream ABS flush section. The pedal "feels" firmer, but that's just as likely to be wishful thinking as fact. At any rate I now feel pretty comfortable about having the wife, kids and grandkids in the truck.

One last issue that hopefully others can clear up. After all the above I switched the ignition off, removed the key, pumped the brake 40+ times, then set the fluid level at the max line in the master cylinder reservoir. Reinserted the key, turned the ignition on, the pump cycled a few times, but completed its processing at about 30 seconds (about because I couldn't find a watch with second hands, so did the 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi... thing). After that, the fluid level was between max and min - did I do that part correct? Anybody see anything I missed?

 

[Julian Stead]

Can I ask, why didn't you use dot 4 or even dot 5.1. I haven't seen dot 3 for years. Thought it was obsolete.

 

[PADDO]

One last issue that hopefully others can clear up. After all the above I switched the ignition off, removed the key, pumped the brake 40+ times, then set the fluid level at the max line in the master cylinder reservoir. Reinserted the key, turned the ignition on, the pump cycled a few times, but completed its processing at about 30 seconds (about because I couldn't find a watch with second hands, so did the 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi... thing). After that, the fluid level was between max and min - did I do that part correct? Anybody see anything I missed?

Sounds like you've nailed it. The 40 pumps with ignition off bleeds the accumulator down and returns fluid to the reservoir. You should feel the pressure go at about 20 pumps - it goes from a pretty normal pedal feel to the floor. Recharging the accumulator (ignition on), for me, takes on average 30 seconds and the fluid level drops from the max line by approximately 10-11mm.

 

[LBridges]

Can I ask, why didn't you use dot 4 or even dot 5.1. I haven't seen dot 3 for years. Thought it was obsolete.

The OEM spec is for DOT 3, so that's what I used. Locally its available at virtually every parts house - and of course at Mr T's parts dept.

 

[Julian Stead]

Must be different in the UK, not seen dot 3 around for a while here, thats why I asked. I just remember my choice was dot 4 or 5.1 when I done mine, I went with dot 4. UK roads are heavy on brakes due to the amount of corners and roundabouts so that might be the reason.. 3/4/5.1 is cross compatible so it doesn't matter which you use, but you can only use the same or higher, not a lower number to what is recommended. Good Job by the way, I think I will use techstream next time..

 

[uHu]

Around here, the t0yota dealers stopped selling anything else than 5.1 years ago. Generally, the 5.1 has better specs than 3 and 4. It will last longer and it takes higher temperature.

 

[gil12]

I've done the Techstream ABS bleeding as per the FSM extract above and it works - or at least the 4 second counter times off, solenoids click and fluid pulses out at the respective caliper. Now my interpretation of this tragically written piece of JapEnglish of a procedure is that an "ordinary" brake bleed - ignition on, pedal depressed (not pumped) and bleeder opened- is achieved without using Techstream by following the prompts in Point 2 immediately preceding the "with hand held tester" stuff. It's the section with bolded Bleed Hydraulic Brake Booster where parts (d) and (e) direct you to Step 4 on the last page where you Bleed Brake Line. So, if you can follow that... Anyway the order of attack for me when doing a brake fluid exchange has been to do the "Bleed Brake Line" at each corner bit, then go back with Techstream hooked up and bleed as per the fsm steps you quoted. At the end of this I usually end up with a quart or so of brake fluid that's been through the system, I've heard ABS solenoids click on/off via Techstream and I usually imagine my brake pedal feel is better.

Thanks for the description. I just did the same. I used a cable mentioned in another post, from amazon. took about two weeks to arrive from China. It comes with software that is difficult to install correctly, but I found a detailed description in one of the Amazon feedbacks which worked perfectly to get the thing going. cable is:
Fotga Newest V8.00.034 MINI VCI for TOYOTA TIS Techstream Diagnostic Cable & Software Model: ZB031

and then search for the feedback on amazon: Installed version 10.10.018 and correct order to install is listed.
ByDuckDivesInWateron June 6, 2016

followed it exactly and it worked great on my windows 7 laptop 32bit.

The flush itself went very smoothly, on my 1999 it only bleeds the two front lines for the ABS.

Gil