Not sure where to put this. It concerns 40, 55, and 60 series owners that want to retrofit elockers and 80 owners who have shot electronics, by far the weak point in Toyota elockers.
I'll probably make up a detailed web page and then it can just go in the tech links.
My camera uses floppys and sucks. Only about half of the pics I took came out. I'll try to get more of the gear as I make the second one.
I came across a pair of rear lockers so the pig got cable locked.
The Aussie and the welded rear worked great, but how do you pass up selectable lockers?
The front in a 40/55 requires a rear 80 (or 60 or 70) locker and a long side inner from a 70 series. CDan got me mine. You might be able to cobble one from a stock 80 shaft, or I understand PIG at Poly might make you one, but that's a different thread. In a 60, I think you can get one for a HJ60.
I looked at the travel the electric motor had and it looked like the bigger gear only really moved about a couple of inches to move the pin to engage the locker dogs. I read in a thread about air actuation that only 10 lbs of pressure was needed to move the pin. I figured a smaller cable could do that.
I disassembled a locker actuator with a junk motor. I drilled a hole just under the gear teeth and just clockwise of the metal spring tab. you need to keep the spring tab up so it doesn't contact the limits cast into the cover. i drilled the hole just big enough for a cable stop. I bought a 2 pack of the stops at CarQuest. They are a brass cylinder with a threaded hole for a screw to tighten on the cable. I then drilled a 1/4 hole through the teeth of the gear at an angle from right to left through to the bigger hole. It's important that this hole goes through the middle of the big hole. Then I notched the gear teeth with a triangle file to make a groove for the cable to ride.
The cable took some trial and error. I tried a couple of different solid cables. One was a choke cable and one was a turn-and-lock cable. Both cables had spiral wound sheathing that stretched. Pushing the cable in would cause the slack to be taken up in the cable before it moved the gear. It would eventually move the gear, but there was no real control over when it would happen. I bought a bike shifter cable, but the stranded cable wouldn't push hard enough. I ended up using the shifter cable housing with a choke cable inner. The turn-and-lock would have been better but the diameter of the wire was too big for the shifter cable.
The cable goes through a hole drilled in the end of the electric motor housing. It is held by a set screw in a hole drilled and tapped in the bushing. A dab of RTV seals the hole. The cable goes through the hole left by the worm gear. The inner cable is inserted into the hole in the gear teeth and through the cable end. I pried off the metal contact plate to insert the cable end into the bigger hole.
Pulling on the cable engages the locker. Pushing it back in disengages it.
I haven't had it on the trail to find out if the tension on the cable holds the locker in place. I would really be surprised if it doesn't. If thats the case, I'll go to turn-and-lock ends on the cable.
I'll probably make up a detailed web page and then it can just go in the tech links.
My camera uses floppys and sucks. Only about half of the pics I took came out. I'll try to get more of the gear as I make the second one.
I came across a pair of rear lockers so the pig got cable locked.
The Aussie and the welded rear worked great, but how do you pass up selectable lockers?
The front in a 40/55 requires a rear 80 (or 60 or 70) locker and a long side inner from a 70 series. CDan got me mine. You might be able to cobble one from a stock 80 shaft, or I understand PIG at Poly might make you one, but that's a different thread. In a 60, I think you can get one for a HJ60.
I looked at the travel the electric motor had and it looked like the bigger gear only really moved about a couple of inches to move the pin to engage the locker dogs. I read in a thread about air actuation that only 10 lbs of pressure was needed to move the pin. I figured a smaller cable could do that.
I disassembled a locker actuator with a junk motor. I drilled a hole just under the gear teeth and just clockwise of the metal spring tab. you need to keep the spring tab up so it doesn't contact the limits cast into the cover. i drilled the hole just big enough for a cable stop. I bought a 2 pack of the stops at CarQuest. They are a brass cylinder with a threaded hole for a screw to tighten on the cable. I then drilled a 1/4 hole through the teeth of the gear at an angle from right to left through to the bigger hole. It's important that this hole goes through the middle of the big hole. Then I notched the gear teeth with a triangle file to make a groove for the cable to ride.
The cable took some trial and error. I tried a couple of different solid cables. One was a choke cable and one was a turn-and-lock cable. Both cables had spiral wound sheathing that stretched. Pushing the cable in would cause the slack to be taken up in the cable before it moved the gear. It would eventually move the gear, but there was no real control over when it would happen. I bought a bike shifter cable, but the stranded cable wouldn't push hard enough. I ended up using the shifter cable housing with a choke cable inner. The turn-and-lock would have been better but the diameter of the wire was too big for the shifter cable.
The cable goes through a hole drilled in the end of the electric motor housing. It is held by a set screw in a hole drilled and tapped in the bushing. A dab of RTV seals the hole. The cable goes through the hole left by the worm gear. The inner cable is inserted into the hole in the gear teeth and through the cable end. I pried off the metal contact plate to insert the cable end into the bigger hole.
Pulling on the cable engages the locker. Pushing it back in disengages it.
I haven't had it on the trail to find out if the tension on the cable holds the locker in place. I would really be surprised if it doesn't. If thats the case, I'll go to turn-and-lock ends on the cable.
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