Building the Ultimate Forever Rig (Advice Needed) (1 Viewer)

[Zeus0623]

Hello Mud Friends!

It has come time to do some rust mitigation and as things typically go, they are now snowballing and I need some advice.

We have owned our family 1983 FJ60 in 861 blue for over 7 years now. She came with some rust in the rear quarters that has progressed over the years. She has a nice spot in the garage and never sees the snow (or rain for that matter). However, this isn't ideal as we want to use her for more than just ice cream runs and the occasional off-road adventure. I just took her on SAS #7 and she did great, all original drivetrain WITH emissions equipment to boot. And did I mention only 163k original miles on the 2F?!

Before I get too distracted, I recently was directed to the Rust Doctor in Grand Junction, CO. We live in Denver so it isn't too far of a trip to make and I have heard great things. My original quote to get the work done was around $15k with a re-spray. I was able to visit him after wheeling in Ouray a few weeks ago and that number quickly jumped up to $20-25k with a full sandblast and undercoat.

I have to also say that the truck is really clean overall. CO truck its whole life with minimal rust to mention aside from the rear quarters.

As I consider the $25k of body work, I also want to figure out what drivetrain will ultimately power this newly restored body/frame to better understand my all-in cost. Definitely some sentimental value in the truck, lots of memories made. I just want to make sure I am spending the money in the right places with the right people.

Motor considerations before this post gets too long: R2.8 ideally but could be convinced of other turbo diesel options. Pair with H55 ideally or other 5 speed.

Thanks for the help and guidance! I am scheduled to drop off the truck for the body work next month so input is greatly appreciated!

 

[Zeus0623]

Here are some of the rust photos for reference

 

[mattressking]

Whatever you do - you never paint first. Whenever you fix up any vehicle - you always settle the mechanics first and finish it up then finish with the paint and refinishing.

Any hotrodding is an unknown, wait until thats all done and you won't be annoyed after you paint and need to fix/change something thats freshly painted.

That said - put an H55 behind it and keep driving. If you aren't doing the labor on the truck, your pockets have to be deep and most lose track/sight with all these fancy changes and sell half way through or at the end to recoup some of the budget. Trucks that are 'forever' trucks....are almost always stock or very close to it.

If money is no issue, then screw it - go nuts. Assume another 25k but likely more for a repower. Just the drivetrain will set you back around 15k in basic parts, zero labor. So sit and ponder on 50k just so you can go 20mph faster on the freeway and gain about 5-10mpg for a truck that likely doesn't get more than 5k a year. Otherwise, enjoy the truck and learn to really refine the factory equipment. H55 and 33s really are a great combo.

 

[Skreddy]

From those pics, I wouldn’t do a respray. Either start a rust abatement procedure or if the rear wheel well stuff really bothers you, fix as minimal there as possible and just respray the whole lower like a 2 tone scheme? Seems like a ton of money for something not that bad.
Instead of fixing for $25k++, have you considered what it would cost to just buy one rust free and sell yours? I know there’s sentimental value but you’d likely come out pockets full of $thousands ahead.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

The H55 really opens up a 60 - it gives you that overdrive that you're wanting on the interstate.

You have a basically new 2F that will run for your whole life if you take care of it. No way would I swap that out for a diesel unless you're just bored and rich.

Don't swallow the whole body work pill all at once - first off try to find good sheet metal you can replace on to your truck - it's out there. Barring that, take it to them and say "Do the rear quarter panels and stop" Then go back next year and say "Do the rear door and stop." Keep it primed and painted in the mean time, drive it, love it, and when you're all done if you want a 10K paint job knock yourself out.

 

[bhsdriller]

That will last you "forever" if you just do some rust prevention

I would spend that money on engine/transmission/gas

 

[CruiserTrash]

@Zeus0623 Hey man, I was the other 861 blue FJ60 at SAS7. We met briefly and I’m in Denver. @mattressking speaks the truth here: body last. To my eyes, the rust on your truck is incredibly minor, it’s a great looking vehicle as-is. You could keep it fluid filmed every year or two and think about the rust in another 10 years. And in its current state the motor has a lot of life left. If you have $50-75k to blow go ahead jump in the deep end, do the works, drive it again in 2-5 years when it’s ready. With super clean 60s bringing 30-70 at auction you might not get much if any resale ROI, but you said this was about sentimentality. In my opinion though, you got one worth driving the crap out of right now as it sits.

For what it’s worth mine has just slightly more advanced rust than yours, 140k miles, and I daily it. May as well enjoy it. Different strokes for different folks.

If you want the inside scoop on Jason/Rust Doctor, hop on the Rising Sun forum and send a message to @ Telly. I put a space between the “at” symbol and his name because I’m not sure he uses the same name on Mud. His name is Doug and he’s down near the Springs. He just had Jason do the works on the body of one of his 60s. It looks amazing. He also has a 60 that used to belong to another club member that did all the rust repair and repaint in his own garage for a fraction of the price. That one looks great too. Maybe with his two experiences he can guide you based on your desired outcome.

Also, come on out to a meeting some time. First Wednesday of the month. The Rising Sun forum will always post a reminder at the top when the next meeting is coming up.

 

[White Stripe]

That rust needs to be addressed immediately and completely. It will advance quickly if you don't. The ice melt colorado uses is bad for the environment and bad for fj60 rust. I would take it to proffitts. You can get the body work and Engine swap done. Keep in mind Colorado basically has California emissions laws now. So it's more strict on engine swaps. A cruiser specific shop should know to look for hidden rust too such as in the a pillar or the roof and fix it.

 

[clrussell]

I’m on the don’t fix it.. just take care of it.

Or buy another to enjoy while this one gets fixed, or fix the other one.

You’re talking months of down time if you do it all at once.

If you must fix, fix the rust in the quarters. And drive it for 5 more years before you have to do anything else.

Coming from a guy who has to many projects and no time.

 

[MoaByte]

Of all the four letter words, "Rust" is the nastiest. My rust started to progress rapidly so I started using Fluid Film. I doubt it stopped it, but it hasn't got noticably worse is the last three years. I hear PB Blaster has a better product that holds up better and lasts longer.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

My vote is for: Get the rust fixed, H55, don't repaint, enjoy. For an engine swap I'd either go 3FE or 1FZ-FE, keeping it powered by a Toyota inline 6. Or if you're into diesels, the HD engine.

 

[yourbuddy]

I would love to discuss your project with you as you have a lot of conflicting answers with some options better than others, if I can provide you with some professional insight I’d love to have a phone call with you! My personal cell is 7196391285, my social media handles are Rocky Mountain Chassis Fab, located in Colorado Springs.