bleeding to death electrically

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I believe that you could remove the positive cable, hook up your multimeter inline (between cable and battery) and start removing fuses. When you pull the one that causes the draw to drop to zero, you've found your problem circuit.

Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
 
You are correct, but a test light is easier to see. Hook the test light up between the neg cable and the neg post of the battery when the cable is off the battery. A draw will cause it to light up. On a 40 with a mechanical regulator, i would start there. Then pull the fuses one at a time.

you can pull the positive cable, but it is all around safer to pull the negative cable.


If you do this on a car with an underhood light, be sure to pull that bulb first. :D
 
awesome,

this is my current problem also.

i just 'fixed' the wiring problems i've had for the last year, and my headlights now work.

unfortunately this battery drain started about a week before i fixed the lights and now i've drained two batteries (one is a spare...) and have to charge them to keep em from dying.



also, gumby, when you say 'mechanical regulator' what do you mean?
(please keep in mind that i have no idea what anything wiring or electrically related means...i can calculate crazy weird dielectric constants for any electro-ceramic you want but i have trouble completing a circuit, ha ha)


malphrus
 

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