Best Mod for under $100 (2 Viewers)

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I wanted to share this last minute purchase before my Moab trip that really helped me out until I had to drop off of a bolder on one corner and completely removed the corner of my bumper. :meh:

CURT 31007 Hitch-Mounted Skid Shield Amazon product ASIN B0009YFNXQ
There is a company that offers a larger one that actually protects under the hitch too but it was too expensive for my cheap A$$. But for you Ballers looking to blow the $100 budget or make your own here are the other models.
Hitch Skid Plate: Receiver Hitch Skid Plate

Order Now - Jeep Skid Plates
Hi
What is your experience with this Curt hitch. At 40$ its pretty cheap. Does it hold up. I want to protect the hitch receiver primarily and was thinking of getting this one due to the low price
 
Hi
What is your experience with this Curt hitch. At 40$ its pretty cheap. Does it hold up. I want to protect the hitch receiver primarily and was thinking of getting this one due to the low price

It held up like a champ in MOAB a couple of years ago. It is stout and will take a beating. Totally worth the money.
 
Upgraded an old office chair for free :p

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Alright, I sort of feel like an idiot posting this, because I feel like I should have known about this LOOOOONG ago!

I got my wife her first GX (an '03) in July, 2004, and she drove it for 10 years to the month. During that time of ownership, I always HATED that fact that the 3 non-driver's doors seemed to be locked every time I was outside of the vehicle (Hers was set in the mode of "Lock when gear shifter moved out of park, and remain locked until manually unlocked." Every early GX I've ever encountered seemed to be set that way from the factory, and I didn't drive it enough to become accustomed to unlocking the doors when I got out of it.)

In any event, it was always annoying to me, and I never could bring myself to take it to the dealership to spend $75 to have them reset the setting to some other mode. Plus, the only other mode that made sense to cure the problem was the "Lock when moved out of park, and unlock when put back in park," but from a personal safety standpoint, I didn't like the idea of having the car automatically unlock when my wife was about to get out it.

ANYWAY, that's a long story to get where I am going: I have experienced the same frustration with my recently-acquired '04, and when looking for something in the owner's manual yesterday, I accidentally happened upon an entry for OWNER-programmable instructions for 4 different automatic lock settings. Without detailing each one of them, they're there, and I found one that works perfectly for me! In my '04 owner's manual, the instructions are on page 18.

Problem solved! (And I'm still an idiot for not knowing this for the last nearly 12 years!):grinpimp:
I know this is a super old post, but I also have this frustration of the doors locking. I also read that section in the manual but when I tried it, nothing happened. The instructions state to move the ignition switch to the “on” position and then hold the unlock button for 5 seconds. The “ignition switch to on” doesn’t mean actually starting the car correct? I’m simply just turning it to “on”, while in park, and then holding unlock but nothing happens. What did you do to reset yours?
 
Im traveling right now so don't have a way to snap a pic, but it was very simple -

I just cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to about 90% of the size of the underside and glued it (a whole lot of glue) and drove a handful of screws into the thin plastic of the seat to hold it in place. Let it set for 24hrs and then screwed the chair base into the plywood. It's super solid and stable.
 
Still outperformed by $14 H9 bulbs with minor modification.
Second the H9/9011 swap. I installed some of the Hikari LED's I've seen recommended on here and while they were an improvement over the old halogens that came with my GX I still wasn't super impressed with the throw and overall brightness. The H9's are a step up over both IMO (65w vs 55w of H11's).
 
I'm going to add new gauge cluster glass, and doing ppf on it lol. Damn scratches drive me insane. The part # is 83852-6D040 if my notes are correct and retails for $16-32 depending where you get it from. PPF will be like $50 even if you had a shop do it.
 
Link for can toolbox?


A few auto zone or Amazon goodies iv added ....
This jerry can tool box I used to have mounted in the rear of my pick from Ramage
I use the tools out of this box more than my 5.5 ft snap on box in my garage ... and the drawer are removable which is convenient ... I welded two chain links on the ends of a pcs of round rod , then snapped it in where the 3rd row seat goes as a tie down point
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I think the most useful cheap mod that I have made to the GX is to install the door pockets. In a story of 'it never hurts to ask', I asked @ACC Toyota if they could source the door pockets in tan instead of black and they were able to. Total this mod is $40, but it gives you valuable storage space in a vehicle that starts with very little! ACC was also incredible to work with, thank you so much Dugan and Jennifer! It is about as straightforward of an install as possible, so here are some photos. The only thing that I did was do a test fit prior to removing the 3M tape and ended up slightly adjusting the black foam so it provides better tension in the door handle.

Make sure to request the correct color pocket when you order your door pocket.


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My top 3:
Running board delete (free)
TPMS delete (free)
Rear cargo net fix (free)

I’ve had a rear net molly panel replacement in my cart a couple of times (Orange Boxx and Victory 4x4)...just seem a bit pricey.

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I'm going to add new gauge cluster glass, and doing ppf on it lol. Damn scratches drive me insane. The part # is 83852-6D040 if my notes are correct and retails for $16-32 depending where you get it from. PPF will be like $50 even if you had a shop do it.
I just used some polishing compound on the plastic and it made a world of difference!
 
I just used some polishing compound on the plastic and it made a world of difference!

The problem with that is that its temporary. Polishing removes the UV coating on the plastic. It will fade/become foggy over time much like polishing headlights.

The part is so cheap that even after you have the film installed it's still less money than what I would charge to remove and polish it more than once.
 
The problem with that is that its temporary. Polishing removes the UV coating on the plastic. It will fade/become foggy over time much like polishing headlights.

The part is so cheap that even after you have the film installed it's still less money than what I would charge to remove and polish it more than once.

I’ve done the 50/50 spar eurathane and mineral spirits on my headlights after I cleared them the first time. Still clear 3 years later. I’m not sure how it would work on inside surfaces.
 

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