Best Cheap Toilet?

[LK1]

here are a couple of pics:

 

[-Spike-]

Would have been nice to see the junction of the pipe and the valve. Looks like it might be galvanized pipe. If so it's a pipe thread connection, the valve is threaded onto the pipe. Turn off the water to the house and drain the pipes by opening a hose bib or something. Get a pipe wrench on the pipe, and an adjustable wrench on the valve. You may have to work the valve back and forth to loosen it. Do NOT let the pipe turn at all, or you may cause a leak in the next connection down the line, in the wall or floor. When you install the new valve use thread sealant.

If it's a compression fitting you'll see a separate nut just below the valve. In that case get a wrench on it and another on the valve. Loosen the nut while holding the valve in place. Install the new valve without using any sealant, either using the old nut and compression ring (ferrule) or remove the old nut and ferrule and put on the new parts.

I'm pretty sure you have a threaded valve on there though.

You realize you could probably rebuild the toilet for around $30, if it's not cracked.

The ugly truth here is that if the pipe is rusted it may not survive, in which case you might want to call a plumber. Or you could just replace the supply line (steel braided hose) and call it good enough. To be honest you should get an expert opinion on the plumbing if that's galvanized- it doesn't last forever.

 

[Skillet]

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[LK1]

Would have been nice to see the junction of the pipe and the valve. Looks like it might be galvanized pipe. If so it's a pipe thread connection, the valve is threaded onto the pipe. Turn off the water to the house and drain the pipes by opening a hose bib or something. Get a pipe wrench on the pipe, and an adjustable wrench on the valve. You may have to work the valve back and forth to loosen it. Do NOT let the pipe turn at all, or you may cause a leak in the next connection down the line, in the wall or floor. When you install the new valve use thread sealant.

If it's a compression fitting you'll see a separate nut just below the valve. In that case get a wrench on it and another on the valve. Loosen the nut while holding the valve in place. Install the new valve without using any sealant, either using the old nut and compression ring (ferrule) or remove the old nut and ferrule and put on the new parts.

I'm pretty sure you have a threaded valve on there though.

You realize you could probably rebuild the toilet for around $30, if it's not cracked.

The ugly truth here is that if the pipe is rusted it may not survive, in which case you might want to call a plumber. Or you could just replace the supply line (steel braided hose) and call it good enough. To be honest you should get an expert opinion on the plumbing if that's galvanized- it doesn't last forever.

Thanks. I realized I didn't get a good shot of the junction. I'll have my plumber look at it. For the time being it's not leaking. My luck I'll turn a small job into a big leak.

I had already replaced the guts and the tank seal two times. Seal was leaking after 2 days. New toilet cost me $88 plus the reinforced ring.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

That's a brass craft stop with the exention tube. It's a direct sweat valve. if you lift the escution at the floor you will see the solder joint. the valve looks good and if it leaks it takes a standard flat washer. I would leave it.

 

[LK1]

Thank you.