anti theft trailer?

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I am looking at purchasing those ready to tow 4x8 trailers made by haulmark trailer and others. But want to make the hitch more of a nightmare time consuming experience for any thief who would want to steel it. Is there such a trailer that is difficult steel both hooked up to the truck and off the truck? I do not intend to use this off road and will only be used on paved roads.

Also, thinking of putting a GPS system to track it in the event it is stolen.
 
The only thing you can do is make it as slow a process as possible so a bad guy will move on to an easier target.

First install an off road coupler, so a crook with a conventional ball hitch can't attach it to his truck. I use an Aussie Treg with locking pin, but it is now impossible to find in North America. Weld the coupler to the frame so it can't be unbolted. Install a stout hitch pin lock at the receiver. If you don't want an off road coupler, weld on a tough _forged_ ball coupler like the Bulldog and use a quality lock.

Then run a heavy duty cable lock from trailer frame to truck frame, not the bumper. You can wind it around the A-frame and secure it with bungee cords if needed. I really like the Python due to it's flexibility and numerous cable options (up to 30 feet). You can also use this cable lock to secure tools, power equipment or other stuff to the trailer frame.

Be sure to buy the bright yellow lock body, and position it so it is visible but hard to access.

41inqnHdBOL._SS500_.jpg


Amazon.com: Master Lock 8401D Python Lock, Yellow: Home Improvement

If you are REALLY worried, when you park and leave the trailer, dismount one wheel and take it and the lug nuts away with you. Remount the trailer's spare tire and wheel inside the trailer.

If you have an additional long Python cable (16 to 30 feet), you can park next to a stout tree or light post and lock the frame to it. Keep the cable high and away from the ground so it is harder to cut.

Since you plan on installing a tracking device, how about an alarm system with motion senseor? I doubt that thieves would ever expect that.

The more stuff you add to secure the trailer, the less likely some creep will be willing to spend the additional time to disable it all.....

Good luck

John Davies
Spokane WA
 
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I welded on some steel anchors to the frame of my trailer, and I can run a cable or chain lock through the wheel spokes and lock each side to the frame so the trailer cannot be rolled. But realities are, if a theif wants it bad enough, they are going to get it.

Sorry, but it is true.

There are a few coupler ball locks that seem like they would do a good job in preventing theft.

Hope it helps a little.

Drew
 
I use both a simple lock on the latch for the ball and a lock that fits up into the ball and uses a steel loop that goes above the tongue.

Here's the first lock I use:
Master Lock Trigger Style Coupler Lock for 1-7/8" and 2" Couplers 605DAT : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

and the second:
Trailer Coupler Lock - Universal - Keyed Alike UTL100KA : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

The first stays on when towing and I use a locking rod to secure my hitch to the truck too!

Both when the trailer is stored give at least some deterrent to a thief. Our scout trailer sits in the back of our church parking lot most of the time so locking it was important.

As already mentioned, we thought about putting steel loops in the concrete when we were pouring a new pad for the trailer, but thought about it too late. The concrete was arriving in about 10 minutes and we didn't have time to go get anything. Loops secured in concrete and use padlocks to secure the trailer.

Only other thing I've heard of is a locking boot for the tires. Something like this:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-L~RA-25.htm



Good luck!
 
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But realities are, if a theif wants it bad enough, they are going to get it.


Yup. All you can do is hope to slow them down enough to make them move on to the next one.

Securing the coupler is the most important thing IMO, as long as there isn't some other way to pull the trailer. If the coupler is locked down like Fort Knox, but you can run a tow strap through the a-frame, it can still be dragged away even in the tires/wheels are locked to the frame, especially with smaller trailers like most of us are talking about. My F250 wouldn't have any problems hauling away my M416 with its tires locked up.

The concrete anchors sound like a great idea though if it's going to be kept in one spot a lot. I would position them directly under the trailer. While this may make locking it up and getting it ready a bit of PITA, it could also make it harder for potential thieves to cut the trailer free because the tethers are under the trailer.
 
Best piece of advice I can give you is to remove the tires. Then use one lug lock and keep it on one of the studs. It makes it harder for someone to put another tire on, and harder to steal if they don't have the tires at all. Also you can look into getting a tilt sensor (I know they have it for motorcycles, you should be able to make it work) and keep it in a well lit place with motion sensored lights.

Also, if it is an enclosed trailer, and you won't be storing anything in it, feel free to leave a quickdraw/carribeaner on it so if someone decides to investigate, they won't mess up the doors or locks with the prybar/hammer.
 
Weld on your dr. lis. no in large bold letters to the side of the trailer.I use a 50.00 dollar master slide on the trailer hitch ball area ,never had a trailer stolen. Mike
 
Need to mention

I know that almost everybody knows this but I see it all the time at boat landings. I look at landings ever since a friend made a comment to me about stupid people. I almost alway see trailer couplers locked but what amazes me is that I commonly see recever hitches secured to the vehicle with a hitch pin and a cotter pin or another non lockable device. Somebody please tell me why someone would lock the trailer tongue but not the reveiver hitch. Now instead of just taking your trailer you graciously throw in a receiver hitch and pin for them so they don't have to use their own or take time cutting your tongue lock off. I guess the old saying that you can't fix stupid still holds water. If I am fishing at night I use a well used landing and park under a light. MY M101 always has the pintle hitch locked and cabled to something or through the rims if not hooked up to a vehicle. I have seen a locking bracket home fabricated that goes in front the brake handle and locked to the body of the trailer so the parking brake couldn't be released. I thought that it was a simple and cheap additional security device. My parking brake totally locks my tires. You would make a hell of alot of noise dragging it away with two tires skidding after you cut the cable and pintle lock off my trailer. You could just cut the brake cables but most wouldn't know or take the time to mess with it.
 
trailer theft here is big, same deal with hitches as ^^^ he pointed out. Most guys here put a bolt thru the reciever, then drill a hole and put a lock on the other end, cheap fix.
 

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