Age & gravity taking its toll on insulation.

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splitshot

Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
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Tired of fixing fallen batts, what is this stuff and where can I find more (comes in 50" wide rolls). Looks like the ticket. Up for other suggestions as well.

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Its the heat just baking the s*** out of it....Sheetrock it you friggin farmer and cut your losses....:lol:
 
what about using bird netting ? pretty cheap, wont hold moisture and you can see thru it if there's any problems .
 
Sheetrock would be a pita due to the conduit, I figure I could just remove the straps, loosen the boxes, and slide this stuff in and staple. No moisture problems here.:hillbilly:

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This is the most recent to dump.

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Here in Alaska to keep the critters out and the insulation up under the floor of cabins we use 1/4 hardware cloth. This might be cheaper and quicker than Sheetrock or OSB.
 
great idea

Here in Alaska to keep the critters out and the insulation up under the floor of cabins we use 1/4 hardware cloth. This might be cheaper and quicker than Sheetrock or OSB.
 
I would put furring strips, bigger than the size of the conduit, and sheet rock it.

More work, but the best solution.
 
Have you thought about the new Spray Foam insulation? It seems to be the thing people are using now in homes. As the technigy increases, the price decreases adn is getting close to the cost of having a commercial company install batting.

I'm not sure how that would work if you metal roof sweats. It may come off in sheets.
 
Here in Alaska to keep the critters out and the insulation up under the floor of cabins we use 1/4 hardware cloth. This might be cheaper and quicker than Sheetrock or OSB.

Or that foil stuff in the first pic. It is a heavy cardboard with a foil laminate on both sides, figure it would reflect heat both ways, which could be a plus..

Have you thought about the new Spray Foam insulation? It seems to be the thing people are using now in homes. As the technigy increases, the price decreases adn is getting close to the cost of having a commercial company install batting.

I'm not sure how that would work if you metal roof sweats. It may come off in sheets.

I've seen that on commercial jobs, DIY option would make it more appealing. Need to check into it.

Sheet rock would be a hire out deal, one of those 'pat myself on the back' things we sub'd out when we built the house.
 
Metal panels will sweat unless the underside is completely encapsulated, which yours is not and even the typical reinforced vinyl back metal building insulation only offer enough strength to keep it in place, since it does only marginally.

In this instance, almost need airflow to occur in the highs of the panels, or in the cavity that the insulation currently fills with eave and ridge ventilation.

I've pulled many professionally installed roof systems with intricate insulation systems below, to find mold and moisture on roofs that leaks aren't a possibility. Once it begins to accumulate, there's nowhere for it to go, so it builds up until the itch discolors or falls.

The right way to do metal decking in an instance similar, is using the vinyl back between the panel and substructure, since it allows for the most economical vapor barrier, then venting the highs of the panels at the eave and peak.

If further insulation is desired, drops or rock with an attic like, vented cavity are the norm.

I'm not a fan of the spray foam from a professional perspective, but in this scenario, as with most retros, it's probably the most cost effective option.

Until the underside of the metal panels propensity to condensate is addressed, there's little else that will be worth the effort, since it'll only be a matter of time before the water table rises in the cavity and similar results occur.

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Consider "double bubble", if maintaining all as is.

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Either that, or get 1" metal banding from a metal building supplier.

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They make pointy pieces of spring steel that wedge between the joist and hold the insulation in place.

Quick and easy solution.
 
The electrician really f'ed the homeowner on that job...but my guess is, they are one in the same.

Why in the hell wouldn't you use romex and just drill the rafters/studs?...animals?
 
A lot of places, exposed romex is not allowed. It would not be much work to drop it all down to put up panels but the wire pieces work great. BTW, they are great drill bits for when you need to the hole like between floors when running wires.
 
The electrician really f'ed the homeowner on that job...but my guess is, they are one in the same.

Why in the hell wouldn't you use romex and just drill the rafters/studs?...animals?

Yup, vermin.
Job was back in the early 80's thought that paper would hold up longer that this.
 

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