Aftermarket Stereo Installation Help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Threads
40
Messages
325
Location
Northeast PA
Website
www.madtripper.com
I've done a bit of searching and haven't come up with anything so I figured I'd post up.

The factory stereo in my '97 was in need of replacement. I picked up a Pioneer DEH-6200BT (Pioneer DEH-P6200BT CD receiver at Crutchfield Signature) and what I thought was the right connector from BB. Got home and put it all together but I didn't have any sound. So I did some searching and found some info stating that I need to bypass the factory amp with the spare molex connectors behind the head unit. Of course that wasn't the cable I had and I didn't feel like trying to determine and then cut, my wires up.

So, I ran to Wally World and grabbed the other connector and I started to piece it together but I won't get to test it until tomorrow morning. My question is this, if I use the amped molex connection and my preouts, how do I get power to the amp or at least the signal to tell it to turn on? My guess at this point is that everything was decent except the amp was being sent an on signal.
The first harness I picked up is the following:
Toyota/Lexus Wiring Harness For select 1992-99 models with factory amplifier at Crutchfield.com

I'm assuming I could hook the remote wire up to a wire telling the amp to turn on however I'm not sure which wire that would be on the factory harness. Any thoughts? If I go with the second harness and the grey molex connectors, I believe I have read that I need to unhook my amp. If I go this route, which connection should I unplug from the amp as there are two?

Thanks for the help.

Tripper
 
Are you using the white connector or the grey connectors (2 of them)?

Just use the gray connectors and toyota hareness for the deck to connect up. Then just unplug the factory amp.
 
I have both styles of harness. I'll hook up the grey connectors tomorrow and see how I make out but which molex do I pull from the amp or does it matter?

Tripper
 
The aftermarket harness for toyota works great with the 2 grey adapters (thats what they are there for TMK). Leave the stock white alone. Try that first. If you get audio then go ahead and just unplug the harness going to the stock amp and remove if you feel.
 
I put in a pioneer head unit as well.
I got the whole package from crutchfield including the new plug adaptors.
I just wired it all together and unplugged the factory amp completely and removed it.
It was really easy.
You do not want the factory amp anyway I guess it is a PITA to use with a new head unit.
Besides some wire splicing for the new head unit plugs it was almost plug and play.
Im surprised that crutchfield did not offer you the new plug harness with the new pioneer head unit.
That was the first that they offered me along with little cubby space below the head unit to fill in the space below the head unit.
 
All buttoned up and working well.

I ended up using the grey plugs and pulled both molex connectors from the factory amp. I'd still be interested in knowing how to power the factory amp but mainly just for my own curiosity.

Crutchfield still includes all the goodies although when I looked at their included harness, it was the version that uses the factory amp which I couldn't get sound out of as mentioned. I picked my stuff up at Best Buy mainly because I went to check a few out and while there, they had an open box of the Pioneer (-$40.00). I normally purchase through Crutchfield and like their info and pricing.

My door speakers are pretty shot but I also picked up some 6 1/2" 3 way speakers I am planning on fitting at some point. They were also an open box so another $40 saved. I know the front stock location is 5 1/4" however I found a few threads where people fit 6 1/2" so I figured why not give it a shot.


For the record, the new radio sounds tremendous as compared to the stock unit. I also added the generic din pocket which fit decent. I'm not crazy about the control knob on the pioneer's however the remote makes things slightly easier. It just seems like the knob might break off if I bump it.
Sound quality is great but as mentioned, stock speakers are hurtin' for certain. I haven't hooked a USB up to it for mp3's but have listened a CD and the tuner which were crisp and clear, much like a Czechvar beer!

Thanks again for the advice and help.


Tripper
 
Thanks for the info. I finished installing the speakers this morning. Pretty straight forward really. I pulled the panels and then removed the stock speakers (front doors only). They were both shot which I knew. I then drilled new holes, put the screw tabs in place, remounted the panel and screwed the new speakers over top of the panels. This was enough room to keep from hitting the window guide and also a few mm from the dash section when closing the door. I can't remember the model of speakers I ended up with but they are Kenwood 3-ways and if someone needs the model #, I'll take a peek.


I didn't take notice but my assumption is that I no longer have the rear sub working at this point since I'm using the grey molex connectors. Does this sound correct? If so, has anyone come up with a solution? I haven't done a search yet but figured I'd ask here.

Overall, very pleased with the new setup. I paired my phone and was hoping to have access to the music files on it however no luck at this point as it looks as the head unit only uses the phone service and no type of file explorer. Not a huge deal as I can plug in the USB cable or aux in if I feel like it. I forgot to install the mic cable so I'll need to pull the head unit again shortly.
 
Yes the pioneer knob does seem flimsy.
I just use the remote it is much better.
I love the remote.
Your rear sub is no longer hooked up.
It would suck anyway.
I put in an aftermarket amp and sub box in the rear.
 
Yes the pioneer knob does seem flimsy.
I just use the remote it is much better.
I love the remote.
Your rear sub is no longer hooked up.
It would suck anyway.
I put in an aftermarket amp and sub box in the rear.

^ x2

Speaker alone will help alot. Add a amp/sub later. Just run some good gauge wire back the quarter panel with a dist. box so you can power you amp and anything else you may want ;)
 
reviving an old thread

^ x2

Speaker alone will help alot. Add a amp/sub later. Just run some good gauge wire back the quarter panel with a dist. box so you can power you amp and anything else you may want ;)

What gauge of wire from the distribution block to the amplifier? Let's say 1/0 gauge from the battery to the distribution block, then what gauge from the distribution block to the amplifier? I'm in the process of adding the aftermarket amp + sub with the 4 gauge amp wire kit.
 
1/0 gauge is overkill.
Depending on the amp, 4 gauge probably is too.
If you have a 4 gauge installation kit, use that for the whole length.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom