Builds A simple Troopy build thread.... (1 Viewer)

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Someone has cut your seat bracket in half, leaving only the rear mounting point. The original part had provision for both seats.

troopy seat mount.jpg


Mine are bolted in because my truck didn't come originally with the rear longitudinal bench seats. I sourced them at a wrecker when I was in Australia.
 
Someone has cut your seat bracket in half, leaving only the rear mounting point. The original part had provision for both seats.

View attachment 2297997

Mine are bolted in because my truck didn't come originally with the rear longitudinal bench seats. I sourced them at a wrecker when I was in Australia.

Ah....one big bracket. GREAT pic. Thanks.

Question.....the support leg that is on the bottom......does yours have a bar/arm that attaches to the seat AND the support leg to help retract it to the seat base when the seat is folded up? Mine doesn't have that bar....so when the seat goes up, the support leg just sticks out towards the cargo area.
 
When the seats are folded up, they are held in place by straps + hooks as pictured. Since the straps hook onto the support leg of the seat, they have the added bonus of holding the leg folded flush against the bottom of the seat. If you need a set of the straps, PM me.

Troopy seat straps.jpg
 
When the seats are folded up, they are held in place by straps + hooks as pictured. Since the straps hook onto the support leg of the seat, they have the added bonus of holding the leg folded flush against the bottom of the seat. If you need a set of the straps, PM me.

View attachment 2298054

Making more sense now......SOME models or years have the arms that help retract and extend the legs. I would guess all models have the straps to keep the seats closed.

Appreciate the offer....I'll pop a set of straps on my next Partsouq order. They were easy to find.

The seat leg support that you found in AUS is NOT so easy to find. Ha. Good score on that for you.
 
Appreciate the offer....I'll pop a set of straps on my next Partsouq order. They were easy to find.

No worries. It's not like they're taking up much space in the garage. I keep them as spares.

The seat leg support that you found in AUS is NOT so easy to find. Ha. Good score on that for you.

Relatively easy to find at wreckers in Australia, but they're probably not going to want to deal with cutting them out for you, then packing and shipping them. If you can connect with someone in Australia here on 'Mud who can go to a wrecker in person for you, they should be able to get a pair. I just happened to be down there when I needed some. If you can do it, have them cut out the sheet metal on the wheel well around the mount. Then you can drill out the spot welds and have a nice clean bracket when you're done. That's what I did.
 
Can we back up and go over your process for the sound deadener and heat insulation.

I have read back over your multiple threads and had some questions about your process for heat and sound control. Assuming that I am starting with bare metal, would your process look like this?

1. scuff, sand, sandblast or otherwise prepare area.
2. Epoxy prime, then wait specified time before next coat
3. apply Second Skin Audio Spectrum. Do you need to pull tape quickly or can you wait until you Raptor line?
4 how long before Raptor? Website says wait 7-10 days.
5. spray with Raptor bedliner.

I have access to top and bottom of the tub, so should I do both sides in similar process?

Website for second skin sounds like you don't have to prime the metal. Confirming that you prime first.....

Thanks,
 
Can we back up and go over your process for the sound deadener and heat insulation.

I have read back over your multiple threads and had some questions about your process for heat and sound control. Assuming that I am starting with bare metal, would your process look like this?

1. scuff, sand, sandblast or otherwise prepare area.
2. Epoxy prime, then wait specified time before next coat
3. apply Second Skin Audio Spectrum. Do you need to pull tape quickly or can you wait until you Raptor line?
4 how long before Raptor? Website says wait 7-10 days.
5. spray with Raptor bedliner.

I have access to top and bottom of the tub, so should I do both sides in similar process?

Website for second skin sounds like you don't have to prime the metal. Confirming that you prime first.....

Thanks,
Here you go:

Clean and prep metal.....on this truck we power washed, removed all OEM sound deadener, nylon brushed/sanded/wire brushed the whole floor(the floor was a mix of some paint that was adhered well, some not). Used the Master Series to seal up any rust(I think we painted most of the floor in this truck to 'seal' it). Scuffed the Master Series with 320 or what they recommend. We applied Second Skin Damplifier Pro FIRST(these are the butyl sound deadening sheets).....then we sprayed on the Spectrum....about 1-2mm I think. I waited a couple of weeks for it to dry just because we got busy with other things. 7-10 days is what they told me for the water to evaporate for full cure. We then knocked down the Spectrum with some 80 grit......then we sprayed our Raptor. The rear on this truck is raptor over the Master Series....no Spectrum back there. We did the floor in 2 sprays. I wasn't overly concerned with sound deadening on the rear floor....we will lay down some Luxury Liner Pro if it becomes an issue. Just the small amount of sound deadener we used in the Troopy is amazing....very nice inside. The amount we used on the 79 is ridiculous...that truck is next level quiet and solid.

On the 79s...since they are very clean inside and all new, we simply clean the metal, stick down the Damplifer, then Spectrum over it....no scuffing....and that was per Second Skin...however you can scuff if you want(red scotchbrite). When that Spectrum dries, it does not come off. We don't Raptor the 79s inside since they are all covered with flooring.

Since the undersides of the 79s are brand new and primed/e-coated, we do the same thing.....clean, then we roll on the Spectrum under the truck. You can use their additive to thicken it up(Sludge) and that allows it to really cling to everything. We do that in the cabs up in the corners of everything. The Spectrum can be used as undercoating.....it's solid stuff. I have yet to do a truck with it on the firewall(exterior...facing motor). I like being able to clean engine compartments. I think the Spectrum would be nearly impossible to clean.

I pull the tape on the Spectrum as soon as we are done with it and it's not wet to the touch. We re-tape when we Raptor.

The biggest thing on the 79 was doing the rear cab wall....again the same thing.....scuff, apply Damplifier Pro(we did the ENTIRE wall), Spectrum. Spectrum was used on just the exterior of the wall. I'm convinced that doing the exterior cab wall probably was the biggest sound reducer....that gap between the bed and the cab must have all kinds of sound and harmonics going on.

It's all really forgiving stuff....clean is most important. The only word of caution is that if you are going to spray the Raptor over the Spectrum, try to get that Spectrum as smooth as you can or you'll be loading up the Raptor to try and cover all the peaks and valleys created by the Spectrum. A lot of that is because of how fine we spray the Raptor....I think if you went with more of a heavier coat or texture, you're going to be fine. I love fine texture bed liner....hard to achieve that over Spectrum or Lizard Skin unless it's been sanded smooth. Hope that makes sense.

I'm wondering if the website saying you don't have to prime doesn't mean that nothing special is required. I'm sure it could go over bare metal but that sounds sketchy. Our primer is always Master Series.
 
Got our rear seats mounted.....not exactly stock but it will work for what we need. Quick little adapter on one of the legs and some spacers for the backs. Going to be a good setup. Wish I would have removed the old seat bracket for the rears....but who knows, maybe we'll use them at some point.

I've been obsessed with side facing seats since I saw them in an Fj40 a long time ago.
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Had an archeological dig at the shop today...........on the Troopys high side AC port. Ha. There was so much fesh fesh that had turned into some type of concrete on the uncovered port.....we had to dig and then drill it out. We were adapting the port to R34....so drilling it out was not a huge deal.

This is what came out of the port.

20200515_112021.jpg


It went back in, it got charged and now we have AC. Nice cold AC which is amazing. As bad as all the wiring was and all the nonsense that had been rigged up....it was only necessary to replace the cooling amplifier/stabilizer assembly and that was that. AC worked. I think we determined that the cooling amplifier must have broken....so there was a toggle switch with a solid core wire that ran to the amplifier to turn it on.....creative.
 
Installed this....complete with fingerprints.
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One of these has gone 300,000 miles....one of them costs $300,000.
20200515_171214.jpg
 
It appears that little car has held up well for 300,000 miles. I obviously can no longer afford a Troopy. :)
 
It appears that little car has held up well for 300,000 miles. I obviously can no longer afford a Troopy. :)
Hahahahaha....the supercharger going on the Lambo will cost approximately 1.5 nice Troopys.
 
Hahahahaha....the supercharger going on the Lambo will cost approximately 1.5 nice Troopys.
Forget the supercharger. A lift kit would be a better use of the customer's money. :)
 
Forget the supercharger. A lift kit would be a better use of the customer's money. :)

Well the supercharger pays for MY suspensions, so technically, his money is going to good use :)
 
Well the supercharger pays for MY suspensions, so technically, his money is going to good use :)
I believe that is what politicians call the "trickle down effect". :lol:
 
Whatever it's called....it's a win-win.
 
I’m playing with Master Series now... I’m really loving this stuff. Once it dries it is a super tough finish. I’m really impressed. I’ll be moving on to Spectrum later this week.

You mention raptor liner and have me curious. I’ve been toying with doing the floor in Line-X after the Spectrum. But I could say a lot of cash doing the floor myself with Raptor.

Is Raptor superior to something like Line-X? Or is it different somehow? I know your shop likes to do things itself, but if Line-X was better you also strike me as the type of outfit that would send it out. I’m curious why you go with Raptor. And would you encourage me to do the same?

I believe @2fpower is also a fan of the DIY bedliner. Would be curious if he’d encourage DIY as well...
 
I’m playing with Master Series now... I’m really loving this stuff. Once it dries it is a super tough finish. I’m really impressed. I’ll be moving on to Spectrum later this week.

You mention raptor liner and have me curious. I’ve been toying with doing the floor in Line-X after the Spectrum. But I could say a lot of cash doing the floor myself with Raptor.

Is Raptor superior to something like Line-X? Or is it different somehow? I know your shop likes to do things itself, but if Line-X was better you also strike me as the type of outfit that would send it out. I’m curious why you go with Raptor. And would you encourage me to do the same?

I believe @2fpower is also a fan of the DIY bedliner. Would be curious if he’d encourage DIY as well...

We send stuff out for Line-X......just depends on the job. I feel more comfortable with Line-X on things like truck beds that will be exposed to the elements. Not sure the Raptor would hold up like the Line-X either. I like to use the Raptor on things that aren't going to take a beating....like floors in 40s or in our case, the Troopy. It's never going to see severe usage. The Raptor is just fine for that.

As I've said before....the Raptor is very DIY friendly. It's pretty enjoyable to spray. Easy enough to color match too and it's nice because you can spray a fine texture(may want to use their Pro gun for that).

In a Troopy....I'd save the money and do the Raptor. You'll be happy you did.

Glad you got try out the Master Series....that stuff is top notch. Just remember....if you sand it for some reason or you scratch thru it, you need to touch it up. That stuff works by sealing off the oxygen to the rust. The guy was pretty adamant about that when we were discussing how to use it.

You'll really like that Spectrum. Did you remove your OEM sound deadener? Will you be reapplying any type of butyl sound deadener? I was super happy with how we did it in the Troopy. Taped the edges of it with foil tape and then laid down the Spectrum....you can barely see where the sheets of Damplifier were.
 

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