Probably not the best place to unload a Jeeo, but here we go. '97 Sport, 5 speed, 191k. It is a strippy...manual, roll up windows, no power locks, etc. I installed a Mopar cruise control kit (factory kit) as well as a Mopar trailer hitch. I never got around to plugging in the wiring harness though (I have it around somewhere).
I had issues with the drive line angle back in '07 (I got a longer drive shaft), but it hasn't given me issues since. I've put ~20k miles on it since installing a smaller shim and drive shaft.
Edit: Check gauge issue fixed.
The check engine light has been on for ~40k miles due to the wiring for the oxygen sensors being faulty. I've installed two new sensors as well as rewired/soldered the wires on three occasions. I'll plug in my OBD II scanner later to confirm what codes are active.
I just finished car shopping, so I know how frustrating it is (I drove 3hrs to Charlotte to look at what turned out to be a piece of s*** yesterday). Ask me whatever questions come to mind and I'll answer them accurately. I won't blow smoke up your ass to get you to come check out a vehicle that I know you won't be happy with. Granted this is probably not the most effective sales technique, but anyways...
John
478-714-1021
3.5" RE superflex
OME LT shocks
OME steering stabilizer
RE transfer case drop
Crager 15x8 D-window wheels
BFG A/T 31's with plenty of tread remaining.
The spare is a 31" tire (minimal tread) that's mounted on one of the factory Ecco wheels. I've got the other four Ecco's in storage. Those along with whatever parts I dig up will go with the rig.
You can't make it out in this picture because of the lighting (or lack of)...but there's a few chips in the paint on the fender where the tire came up and hit the fender while off-roading.
This is the passenger side floor. I cut the carpet out due to a mud-hole mishap this past summer (didn't want the carpet to get moldy). This is the only rust on the floor.
There's one other small rust spot above the drivers door, I'll get a picture of that later (the only reason I ever noticed it is that I run my fingers along it when I have the window open.
I had issues with the drive line angle back in '07 (I got a longer drive shaft), but it hasn't given me issues since. I've put ~20k miles on it since installing a smaller shim and drive shaft.
Edit: Check gauge issue fixed.
The check engine light has been on for ~40k miles due to the wiring for the oxygen sensors being faulty. I've installed two new sensors as well as rewired/soldered the wires on three occasions. I'll plug in my OBD II scanner later to confirm what codes are active.
I just finished car shopping, so I know how frustrating it is (I drove 3hrs to Charlotte to look at what turned out to be a piece of s*** yesterday). Ask me whatever questions come to mind and I'll answer them accurately. I won't blow smoke up your ass to get you to come check out a vehicle that I know you won't be happy with. Granted this is probably not the most effective sales technique, but anyways...
John
478-714-1021
3.5" RE superflex
OME LT shocks
OME steering stabilizer
RE transfer case drop
Crager 15x8 D-window wheels
BFG A/T 31's with plenty of tread remaining.
The spare is a 31" tire (minimal tread) that's mounted on one of the factory Ecco wheels. I've got the other four Ecco's in storage. Those along with whatever parts I dig up will go with the rig.
You can't make it out in this picture because of the lighting (or lack of)...but there's a few chips in the paint on the fender where the tire came up and hit the fender while off-roading.
This is the passenger side floor. I cut the carpet out due to a mud-hole mishap this past summer (didn't want the carpet to get moldy). This is the only rust on the floor.
There's one other small rust spot above the drivers door, I'll get a picture of that later (the only reason I ever noticed it is that I run my fingers along it when I have the window open.
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