Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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Faulty fuel pump? Wired it incorrectly, the pump is pumping gas back to the tank.. fuel regulator faulty? Installed the right pressure line into the fuel rail or got the return and pressure line mixed up? Installed a fuel pressure gauge so I know it has proper fuel pressure.

IMG_4185.webp
 
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Looking for suspension setup advice from others who have done an LS swap on an 80-series

I’ve gone through most of the suspension sticky, but I’m hoping to hear specifically from people who have done an LS swap and what suspension setup ended up working best for you.
My rig:
  • ’97 LX450, triple locked
  • L92 aluminum block / 6L90
  • Delta front & rear bumpers
  • ComeUp 12K winch
  • Icon 3" lift (Delta spec)
  • 35” tires (I know—Delta notes the 3” L arms are really for 37s)
  • Stock driveshafts
  • 3" Delta L-front radius arms
  • MetalTech adjustable rear upper/lower control arms
Measurements:
  • Front: 24.5" COH → bottom of flare
  • Rear: 24" COH → bottom of flare
Angles & issues:
  • Rear pinion is within ~0.5° of the t-case output
  • Rear working angle ~8.5%
  • Front angles are way off, but that’s a problem for later
  • Growl from the front shaft on decel
  • Vibration from the rear from 0–35 mph
  • If I remove the rear driveshaft entirely, all vibration/growl disappears → so current issue seems rear-driveshaft related
  • New U-joints front and rear, confirmed the working angles are outside ideal range after the fact

Weight notes (to show where the lift is sitting):
  • 1FZ: 650–700 lbs
  • L92: 450–560 lbs
  • A343F: 178 lbs
  • 6L90: 245 lbs
  • Delta front bumper + 12K winch: ~170 lbs→ Front end is basically close to stock weight
  • Rear has Delta dual swing-out + 35" spare + ladder + Curt tow mount + Prinsu rack
    → Rear sits ~1" lower than the front
My current plan:
Drop the front to a 2" lift with a VR spring to level it out (or run the front slightly lower), install a DC rear driveshaft and get those angles dialed in, then move on to the front geometry (steering, caster, etc.).

For those of you who have done LS swaps:
  • Did a DC shaft or different control arm setup solve your decel growl and low-speed vibration?
  • Anything I’m overlooking that typically causes these symptoms on LS-swapped 80?
Really just trying to understand what’s “normal” or proven after an LS swap since I like to buy parts that i don't need. Thanks in advance for any insight.


IMG_1640.webp
 
I would not run a DC shaft unless I absolutely had to. Seems like changing your rear pinion angle would be a better solution?
 
Tinkertoy said:
Looking for suspension setup advice from others who have done an LS swap on an 80-series

I’ve gone through most of the suspension sticky, but I’m hoping to hear specifically from people who have done an LS swap and what suspension setup ended up working best for you.
My rig:
  • ’97 LX450, triple locked
  • L92 aluminum block / 6L90
  • Delta front & rear bumpers
  • ComeUp 12K winch
  • Icon 3" lift (Delta spec)
  • 35” tires (I know—Delta notes the 3” L arms are really for 37s)
  • Stock driveshafts
  • 3" Delta L-front radius arms
  • MetalTech adjustable rear upper/lower control arms
Measurements:
  • Front: 24.5" COH → bottom of flare
  • Rear: 24" COH → bottom of flare
Angles & issues:
  • Rear pinion is within ~0.5° of the t-case output
  • Rear working angle ~8.5%
  • Front angles are way off, but that’s a problem for later
  • Growl from the front shaft on decel
  • Vibration from the rear from 0–35 mph
  • If I remove the rear driveshaft entirely, all vibration/growl disappears → so current issue seems rear-driveshaft related
  • New U-joints front and rear, confirmed the working angles are outside ideal range after the fact

Weight notes (to show where the lift is sitting):
  • 1FZ: 650–700 lbs
  • L92: 450–560 lbs
  • A343F: 178 lbs
  • 6L90: 245 lbs
  • Delta front bumper + 12K winch: ~170 lbs→ Front end is basically close to stock weight
  • Rear has Delta dual swing-out + 35" spare + ladder + Curt tow mount + Prinsu rack
    → Rear sits ~1" lower than the front
My current plan:
Drop the front to a 2" lift with a VR spring to level it out (or run the front slightly lower), install a DC rear driveshaft and get those angles dialed in, then move on to the front geometry (steering, caster, etc.).

For those of you who have done LS swaps:
  • Did a DC shaft or different control arm setup solve your decel growl and low-speed vibration?
  • Anything I’m overlooking that typically causes these symptoms on LS-swapped 80?
Really just trying to understand what’s “normal” or proven after an LS swap since I like to buy parts that i don't need. Thanks in advance for any insight.


View attachment 4044051
Click to expand...
Dc shaft for the rear will fix it. You will not have strength issues. Obviously one joint is better than 2. I beat the living crap out of my truck. You’ll be fine.

The front shaft got a DC shaft for as well and the growl on Decel that you speak of, that I also have, did Not go away. I do not have the delta arms yet to correct caster. But I know the vibration is because of the pinion angle at this point. I have the OME J coil and L shock
Lift. With delta front and rear bumpers.

My solution for the growl on decel, part timed my transfer case. So I’m 2wd around town and highway. The growl doesn’t happen on the trail so I’m not worried about it.

You have really done your homework compared to how I went about it all. Trial and error. But the ex shaft in the rear should fix your issues. I never had a vibration in the rear. I got a new one cuz I busted up the old on a rock. And I knew my pinion angle was off anyways. Tom Woods driveshaft will get you going and will fix it or change measurements on the fly if you send it back to them. They are great.
 
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PIP said:
I would not run a DC shaft unless I absolutely had to. Seems like changing your rear pinion angle would be a better solution?
Click to expand...
Thanks.

Rear pinion is already lined up with the t-case output flange—I’m within about 0.5°.

The problem isn’t alignment, it’s that the driveshaft working angle is too steep. The rear shaft really wants to be in that 3–5° range, but after the 3” lift I’m sitting at 8.5°, which is enough to cause vibration for me (even though some people get away with it at that angle).

For anyone checking their own setup, the working angle is just the difference between the t-case output angle and the driveshaft angle. In my case the t-case flange is -2.42° and the driveshaft is right around 11°, so the math puts me at that 8.5° working angle. (This assumed if your rear pinion is also in alignment.)

Just wondering what others who have done an LS swap ran into here and how you solved it.
 
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Reactions: PIP
Not to take away from PIP.


I’m running into an issue if my own. When my electric fans come on, the charging light above they volt gauge comes on, on the dash. When the fan shuts off. The light goes off. Battery is charging. Just trying to figure out what may be the cause? I haven’t had time to dive deeply into yet.

Any ideas?
 
Tinkertoy said:
Looking for suspension setup advice from others who have done an LS swap on an 80-series

I’ve gone through most of the suspension sticky, but I’m hoping to hear specifically from people who have done an LS swap and what suspension setup ended up working best for you.
My rig:
  • ’97 LX450, triple locked
  • L92 aluminum block / 6L90
  • Delta front & rear bumpers
  • ComeUp 12K winch
  • Icon 3" lift (Delta spec)
  • 35” tires (I know—Delta notes the 3” L arms are really for 37s)
  • Stock driveshafts
  • 3" Delta L-front radius arms
  • MetalTech adjustable rear upper/lower control arms
Measurements:
  • Front: 24.5" COH → bottom of flare
  • Rear: 24" COH → bottom of flare
Angles & issues:
  • Rear pinion is within ~0.5° of the t-case output
  • Rear working angle ~8.5%
  • Front angles are way off, but that’s a problem for later
  • Growl from the front shaft on decel
  • Vibration from the rear from 0–35 mph
  • If I remove the rear driveshaft entirely, all vibration/growl disappears → so current issue seems rear-driveshaft related
  • New U-joints front and rear, confirmed the working angles are outside ideal range after the fact

Weight notes (to show where the lift is sitting):
  • 1FZ: 650–700 lbs
  • L92: 450–560 lbs
  • A343F: 178 lbs
  • 6L90: 245 lbs
  • Delta front bumper + 12K winch: ~170 lbs→ Front end is basically close to stock weight
  • Rear has Delta dual swing-out + 35" spare + ladder + Curt tow mount + Prinsu rack
    → Rear sits ~1" lower than the front
My current plan:
Drop the front to a 2" lift with a VR spring to level it out (or run the front slightly lower), install a DC rear driveshaft and get those angles dialed in, then move on to the front geometry (steering, caster, etc.).

For those of you who have done LS swaps:
  • Did a DC shaft or different control arm setup solve your decel growl and low-speed vibration?
  • Anything I’m overlooking that typically causes these symptoms on LS-swapped 80?
Really just trying to understand what’s “normal” or proven after an LS swap since I like to buy parts that i don't need. Thanks in advance for any insight.


View attachment 4044051
Click to expand...

I am running a very similar setup (DeltaVS front/rear bumpers, 3L arms, winch, etc), except:

Engine:
iron block L96
190lb RTT, with 3 load bars.
Drawers, referigator, gear...

Springs:
2.5" dual rate Springs: Dobinson C97-146VT and C97-147VT

COH to bottom of fender:
22.5" Front, both sides
22.25" Rear, Drivers
21.75" Rear, Passenger

My truck sits 2" lower than yours.

I have since changed the rear springs to C59-185 3.0" because I didn't like the driving dynamics of the VT springs. They are maybe about .25 or .5" taller that then C97-147VT given the same weight.

My engine/transmission is angled is 3.0° down and I believe my rear diff is equal and opposite at 3.0° up, but I don't know if I wrote it down...but I can check later. I don't know the angle of my rear driveshaft but I can check that later as well.

I do not have any vibration issues at any speed

Unless you like the lift, I would look at lowering it.
 
Okay, I'm an idiot. I bought Cruiser Matt's LS swap DBW pedal bracket and I can't figure it out. I'm using the Corvette pedal in my 97 TLC. I mounted it up with two of the holes on the bracket that line up with the old pedal mount holes and it kind of works. Unfortunately, the pedal is way too far away from the tunnel and close to the brake pedal. I think I'm just using the wrong set of holes (there are a bunch), but I can't move it over far enough to passenger to get the next set to line up. Anybody got a picture of how they mounted theirs with the Corvette style pedal? TIA.

IMG_5250.webp


IMG_5251.webp
 
tmxmotorsports said:
Did it come with instructions or instructions on his website or you could just message @cruisermatt
Click to expand...
I emailed them and they’re trying to help. I think I’ll just drill a couple of holes so it sits where I think it should.
 
I don't know if this is allowed - but I've decided to go in a different direction with my truck - so my swap is for sale:

Mixelplix

Parting Out Thread 'Scranton PA Area - FJ80 6.2LS (L92) swap Marks 6l80 Adapter - Sell or Trade'

I few years ago I was convinced that I was going to swap an LS into my FJ80. Time has changed my mind, and I have decided to keep it stock.

As a result, I have the following stuff which needs to go:

Marks Adapter Kit:

Brand new in box Marks swap kit: SKU: MFP1945A

www.marks4wd.com

Transfer Case Adaptor - 6L80E to LandCruiser 80/100 | Marks 4WD

Transfer Case Adaptor for Toyota Landcruiser V8 engine conversion using the 6L80E 6L90 automatic transmission To Suit: 80 100 series Landcruiser full-time 4WD HF2A 4-speed auto transfer case
www.marks4wd.com www.marks4wd.com

invoice.webp


Kit Includes
  • Engine mount kit
  • Adaptor housing
  • Transfer case input shaft
  • Dowels
  • Seal
  • Bolts
  • Transmission Cooler Manifold
  • Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter
  • Water Temperature Adapter
  • Downloadable Instructions (v1.2)

08 Cadillac...
  • Like

Please reply to that thread, or PM me.
 
The swap runs really good now.. appreciate all the help/comments. love the power. It’s hysterical when people tried to pass the LC and when they hear the v8 exhaust sound, they slowed down. Engine and transmission coolant tempts average 195 F. Long term fuel trim is 3.9 approximately. The Ome suspension is somewhat comfortable in highway speed. Front heavy springs, mediums rear. I really hate how bumpy the rear feels at low speed over bumps. Pregnant wife complains whenever she is in the LC. Maybe the .5” trim packers installed affected it. I will probably upgrade to adjustable suspension next year. Had icon stage 2 on my FJ cruiser and really like it. Some people put sand bags in the trunk to reduce the bumpiness. Might get the delta rear bumper ($$$, lots of baby diapers). Maybe the rear delta's will mitigate the agony.

IMG_4337.webp


IMG_4342.webp
 
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Im runn
wiynwiyn said:
The swap runs really good now.. appreciate all the help/comments. love the power. It’s hysterical when people tried to pass the LC and when they hear the v8 exhaust sound, they slowed down. Engine and transmission coolant tempts average 195 F. Long term fuel trim is 3.9 approximately. The Ome suspension is somewhat comfortable in highway speed. Front heavy springs, mediums rear. I really hate how bumpy the rear feels at low speed over bumps. Pregnant wife complains whenever she is in the LC. Maybe the .5” trim packers installed affected it. I will probably upgrade to adjustable suspension next year. Had icon stage 2 on my FJ cruiser and really like it. Some people put sand bags in the trunk to reduce the bumpiness. Might get the delta rear bumper ($$$, lots of baby diapers). Maybe the rear delta's will mitigate the agony.

View attachment 4050684

View attachment 4050685
Click to expand...
Im running ome stock height springs with new toyota shocks. It rides really nice.
 
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