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@wiynwiyn
I'm still not clear on how you're getting your speedometer signal. If you kept the part of the harness that goes to the transfer case/CDL/transfer neutral/transfer low switches and to the VSS, your original VSS on the transfer case is still sending that signal to the speedometer. The engine calibration doesn't do anything to that signal.
If your actual speed is 65 by GPS and your speedometer reads 55, it's probably the fact that you have 35" tires and you just need to get the Lutz correction box. That's what I'm going to use when I upsize tires. No need for the Dakota converter.
I'm still not clear on how you're getting your speedometer signal. If you kept the part of the harness that goes to the transfer case/CDL/transfer neutral/transfer low switches and to the VSS, your original VSS on the transfer case is still sending that signal to the speedometer. The engine calibration doesn't do anything to that signal.
If your actual speed is 65 by GPS and your speedometer reads 55, it's probably the fact that you have 35" tires and you just need to get the Lutz correction box. That's what I'm going to use when I upsize tires. No need for the Dakota converter.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The tune and entering tire size and gear ratio is more for the engine/ transmission shifting unless there is a specified output just for your speedometer and the Toyota speed sensor uses a different kind of signal than gm. I've made a contraption that sent speed signal from the Toyota vss to the gm ecm for nv4500 manual transmission so the ecm see's vss so it doesn't stall and other jazz.
I’ve been driving my truck for the past couple of days. Put about 90 miles on it. Everything runs great. 2 things I am encountering. P0332 knock sensor code. Need to check the sensor. Haven’t done it yet. It runs great though.
And I have transmission fluid leak from the tail shaft of the trans and the pan gasket. The leak is coming from between the plate that mounts to the trans from marks adapter kit and the trans. That’s my most concerning issue. Hopefully it’s just the shaft output seal. And getting past the o-ring from the marks kit.
Otherwise this thing was well worth the money, effort, and time. I just want to say thank you to everyone who helped me with info along the way and answers questions. Appreciate it very much.
Also for those interested. I have a 4l80 trans. I bought the lokar shift cable kit and I also bought a longer 5ft cable instead of the 4ft from them. I didn’t have to do any modification to make it find all my gears on the shifter and I didn’t have to do any crazy s shape with the cable. Just looped it back towards the fuel tank and down the trans shifter. I didn’t even flip the level either. It’s works perfect. It’s more costly. But I used everything in the kit and it is right on the money. Reverse is a little wonky but it’s easy to find.
And I have transmission fluid leak from the tail shaft of the trans and the pan gasket. The leak is coming from between the plate that mounts to the trans from marks adapter kit and the trans. That’s my most concerning issue. Hopefully it’s just the shaft output seal. And getting past the o-ring from the marks kit.
Otherwise this thing was well worth the money, effort, and time. I just want to say thank you to everyone who helped me with info along the way and answers questions. Appreciate it very much.
Also for those interested. I have a 4l80 trans. I bought the lokar shift cable kit and I also bought a longer 5ft cable instead of the 4ft from them. I didn’t have to do any modification to make it find all my gears on the shifter and I didn’t have to do any crazy s shape with the cable. Just looped it back towards the fuel tank and down the trans shifter. I didn’t even flip the level either. It’s works perfect. It’s more costly. But I used everything in the kit and it is right on the money. Reverse is a little wonky but it’s easy to find.
I am not sure which transmission you have, but does your transmission need to have the holes plugged in the back of the transmission like a 2WD 6L80/90e needs to have done after removing the tailshaft?
I think I’m about 60% there. If I’m being honest I think the end result probably isn’t worth the effort for this particular swap in an FZJ (I like I6 sounds), but I could see it worth it being a 3fe truck if you’re doing it yourself and have access to a cheap 100 series. Otherwise, MEHHHHHH
Wow lots of 2uz swaps going on lately….
I am making progress on mine mostly just waiting on needed parts to make sure are put on and in, before the UZ gets bolted in for good. Should go pretty quick once everything gets here.
I am making progress on mine mostly just waiting on needed parts to make sure are put on and in, before the UZ gets bolted in for good. Should go pretty quick once everything gets here.
I have the 4l80 and I’m pretty sure it is a 2wd trans converted to a 4wd based off that the shaft looks like it was cut.(it’s not a perfectly straight cut across) Magically cut to the exact length it would have needed to be for the marks 4wd kit.
What holes do you speak of? And do they leak a lot of fluid if not plugged??? And how do I plug them if they are not?
For a 2wd 4l80e, I believe you do need to plug holes at 12, 3 and 6 o'clock.
On my 6l90e, I used the correctly sized plugs, same as GM. Others will use a tap and use a NPT plug.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Last swap was 4x4 4l80e to 80 case zero issue have a swap coming up using 4x4 4l80e to 80 case.
Yea I’m pretty sure mine is 2wd cuz of the cut shaft. Unless the builder used a 4wd trans with a 2wd shaft?? lol I dunno. Either way my t case ia coming out so I can inspect
Is that your trans or a pic of a 4l80?
Ok cool. Thanks. Yea I’m unsure. I don’t remember seeing anything that obvious that need to be plugged. But who the heck knows at this point. I’ll buy everything I need for both trans styles and go from there so it’s 1 day job and don’t need to order parts.
Did you need to plug 3 holes as well on yours like that pic?
It leaks but is not alooootttt. But it needs to be addressed. I’m wondering if 12 and 6 on mine aren’t plugged and my adapter seal just isn’t the greatest there and it’s leaking out. It’s just an o ring and a light bead of permatex.
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I had to plug two holes on the rear of my 2WD 6L90e but they were just at 12 and 6 o'clock.
Plugs:
I was reading on the 4l80 the 12 and 6 plugs are just returns. And the only one that truly matters is the 3 plug. But I’ll plug them all just to be safe.
Did you get random plugs that fit or does gm have part numbers if I look them up?
Returns mean that they have a direct path into the internals of a transmission and they should be plugged.
What happens if you accelerate hard? What happens if you are on a steep incline, like 4x4s tend to do?
I don't know the 4l80e hole size, but I used Dorman 555-005 on my 6l90e: Steel Cup Expansion Plug 1/2 In., Height 0.300
Well the 4.7 is a nice engine and very smooth. It wont be the fastest v8 swap but will drive really nice hopefully and have adequate power.
This thing has stock 4.10s and 37s, it’s gonna suck no matter what
The 2uz isn’t a terrible engine, it’s just not (imo) in the same class as the LS style engines which (imo) are the way to go after getting as far as I have as well as being familiar with daily driving a 2uz.