Wow! Where did you get the Panasonic battery? Pulled from a late model Toyota from Japan? Not available to buy in US.
Those are the longest lasting 12v vehicle batteries I’ve ever seen.
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Those are the longest lasting 12v vehicle batteries I’ve ever seen.
Haha. Holly grail of battery. My friend had it for two years and was about to throw it away, so I took it.
Top up the fluid and keep on trucking!
PTFE goodies and some hose management parts showed up today from Racetronix.
Hid my plastic pick tools from myself, panel popper works just as well. Separate the inner liner from the braided steel, install the ferule, and assemble.
Angle of the photo is poor, there's plenty of clearance to the booster, the cable bracket attached to the master, and the steering shaft even when the engine torques under load. Started on the power steering, but it got a little dark and I got hungry. Shuffling cars that dont move by myself isnt fun. I reckon I'll have all the lines built and ran tomorrow.
Hid my plastic pick tools from myself, panel popper works just as well. Separate the inner liner from the braided steel, install the ferule, and assemble.
Angle of the photo is poor, there's plenty of clearance to the booster, the cable bracket attached to the master, and the steering shaft even when the engine torques under load. Started on the power steering, but it got a little dark and I got hungry. Shuffling cars that dont move by myself isnt fun. I reckon I'll have all the lines built and ran tomorrow.
Had a box of random sized Adel clamps (p clamps, cushion clamps, whatever you're familiar with) that i apparently hid from myself. Going to add an an6 female-an6 male adapter to the low pressure port to help stagger the fittings at the box since clearance is tight as well as make getting tools on each line individually without interference. I built the lines with that sspace in mind since I realized as I was making them that it would make both myself feel better and the setup more serviceable. I'm going to trade some work in the near future for the Mastercool flare set that does 37* angle flares and start doing stuff like this in hard line with tube nuts because I'm not a huge fan of long runs of soft lines. But this will be fine.
Cut the coolant hoses to get the fitment issues want and taped 'em up, I'll take the dogs to Napa tomorrow for their treats and bring my parts guy a meatball sub from a local NJ pizza joint that I owe him and rummage around the back to find something that fits the 'jigs' I made
Sent way too much time ****ing off this weekend. Didn't finish the harness since I had friends come into town randomly. Need to throw the OG Kenny Loggins back on this thing with the flanges cut off and v bands welded on in place of the chinesium headers. Problem with that is, I have the practice kid's Sequoia out back some tweakers stole the cats off and every manifold stud but one broke, so these ones are going on it and the ones from that are going on this... Paul is lucky I like him enough to rob Peter (also the Sequoia has a wild pan leak at 346k miles so I'm getting multiple birds stoned, or whatever)
I *may* try to revisit this 3uz Crown manifold as the way it drops is much more conducive to fitment at the firewall, but the way it comes off the number one cylinder is either gonna eat the frame rail or be right on the brake lines. This would be a great time/reason to ditch (g)A(y)BS but its just my circus, not my mon(k)eys
Cut the coolant hoses to get the fitment issues want and taped 'em up, I'll take the dogs to Napa tomorrow for their treats and bring my parts guy a meatball sub from a local NJ pizza joint that I owe him and rummage around the back to find something that fits the 'jigs' I made
Sent way too much time ****ing off this weekend. Didn't finish the harness since I had friends come into town randomly. Need to throw the OG Kenny Loggins back on this thing with the flanges cut off and v bands welded on in place of the chinesium headers. Problem with that is, I have the practice kid's Sequoia out back some tweakers stole the cats off and every manifold stud but one broke, so these ones are going on it and the ones from that are going on this... Paul is lucky I like him enough to rob Peter (also the Sequoia has a wild pan leak at 346k miles so I'm getting multiple birds stoned, or whatever)
I *may* try to revisit this 3uz Crown manifold as the way it drops is much more conducive to fitment at the firewall, but the way it comes off the number one cylinder is either gonna eat the frame rail or be right on the brake lines. This would be a great time/reason to ditch (g)A(y)BS but its just my circus, not my mon(k)eys
The 3uz manifolds and these stiff ass mounts should do it. Some nomex fire sleeving and metal zip ties over the brake lines is probably what I'll run with. Perfect world I would delete the ABS. I always felt if you can't avoid smacking s*** without it, you shouldn't be driving anyhow.
SC400 manifolds would afford all the clearance I would prefer, but I'll be keeping those for another project
SC400 manifolds would afford all the clearance I would prefer, but I'll be keeping those for another project
I would put some type of heat sheald over your engine mounts down at the frame.
Factory Crown heat shields will hopefully do it and was factored in. The mount bushings are OME poly Tundra leaf spring bushings so I'm sure they'll melt anyway. If there's an issue once it runs it will get sorted when that bridge gets crossed and it will come with a cost. For now this is mostly second-hand hand s*** for someone that isnt capable of doing this or paying what something like this takes to be as close to perfect as possible. Making do at best, if you will.
Since the engine is out, I would thermal wrap the power steering lines and fuel lines. On another land, I used an ac can with dye and see no leaks at all connections/fittings. If there were leaks, would see it while using a back light. Ac condenser fan comes on now when pressure ac switch. I also wired up a switch so I can turn it on manually while in traffic. It’s blowing code now. Hope it stays like that.
Started this forever ago (almost a year) but luckily I left myself enough love notes to relatively pick up and keep going without double checking everything from the beginning.
Since I'm a dinosaur writing out the pinouts of each connector used and adding it's destination/description allows me to minimize scrolling or clicking between between pages, as well as kinda sticks in my brain better. It also allows me to make a quick delete list which is usually where I start with these projects. I'll prune/remove unnecessary circuits after unwrapping, then begin actual work of merging, adding, and rerouting.
I've been to this rodeo a few times and have new terminals and wire seals for most standard Toyota stuff. Ih8soldering old, s***ty, wires. These are Sumitomo TS series .187 sealed terminals which carry heavy loads and fit in connectors such as your starter, ABS wiring, and in this instance, the EB1 connector in the FZJ that supplies the +B circuit via the Main Relay
Since the EB1 connector uses only one out of three spots in the connector, I went ahead and rerouted the ignition 12v supply from the EA2 connector behind the fuse box that gets power from IG2 circuit at the ignition switch to it, as well as began adding the 15a ETCS fuse that powers the electronic portion of the throttle the ECU needs. The connector on this truck is broken, but I hoard hard. SC400 uses same connector which is what this black replacement is from
IG2 circuit also powers the injectors as well. The Sequoia pairs the coils, injectors, and noise filters together but splits the banks to be separate, whereas the 80 series powers injectors via IL1 and ignition via EB1 even though the parent power source is the same. I split the load with EB1 (near fuse box) carrying the LH bank and IL1(near ECU under dash) carrying the RH bank. This was all run through the harness on the LH bank and will terminate in its original spot.
Since the starter circuit is completely different between the two and the NSS doesn't carry the starter load, I used the Sequoia 18awg wiring and method to trigger an auxiliary relay (not yet added) for the starter whose wiring is ran along the block to the back of the engine in a sub-harness from the factory.
Since I'm a dinosaur writing out the pinouts of each connector used and adding it's destination/description allows me to minimize scrolling or clicking between between pages, as well as kinda sticks in my brain better. It also allows me to make a quick delete list which is usually where I start with these projects. I'll prune/remove unnecessary circuits after unwrapping, then begin actual work of merging, adding, and rerouting.
I've been to this rodeo a few times and have new terminals and wire seals for most standard Toyota stuff. Ih8soldering old, s***ty, wires. These are Sumitomo TS series .187 sealed terminals which carry heavy loads and fit in connectors such as your starter, ABS wiring, and in this instance, the EB1 connector in the FZJ that supplies the +B circuit via the Main Relay
Since the EB1 connector uses only one out of three spots in the connector, I went ahead and rerouted the ignition 12v supply from the EA2 connector behind the fuse box that gets power from IG2 circuit at the ignition switch to it, as well as began adding the 15a ETCS fuse that powers the electronic portion of the throttle the ECU needs. The connector on this truck is broken, but I hoard hard. SC400 uses same connector which is what this black replacement is from
IG2 circuit also powers the injectors as well. The Sequoia pairs the coils, injectors, and noise filters together but splits the banks to be separate, whereas the 80 series powers injectors via IL1 and ignition via EB1 even though the parent power source is the same. I split the load with EB1 (near fuse box) carrying the LH bank and IL1(near ECU under dash) carrying the RH bank. This was all run through the harness on the LH bank and will terminate in its original spot.
Since the starter circuit is completely different between the two and the NSS doesn't carry the starter load, I used the Sequoia 18awg wiring and method to trigger an auxiliary relay (not yet added) for the starter whose wiring is ran along the block to the back of the engine in a sub-harness from the factory.
Dayco numbers: Upper hose 70306. Lower hose 71538. Worked without modification in my swap.
Sealed fuse holder and relay kits allow me to terminate milspec wire without splicing to chinesium wiring on cheap fuse holders and standard unsealed relays. Unsealed relays have no business on an off-road vehicle or any vehicle exposed to the elements. The additional cost is minimal if youre resourceful.
Forgot the hoses when I took the sandwich the other day, this gives me a quick option to shoot for. Thanks
Sequoia oil filter housing with cooler was way too intrusive. I set the engine back as far as possible and the filter and housing was a problem for the brace for the track bar mount. SC400 oil filter housing gave me what I needed. Had one here as well as a couple new o-rings, so I swapped it and tossed on the sender from the 1fz. Also deleted the oil 'cooler' as well. Used a spare block drain which happens to be the same sized fitting at the side ofAlso deleted the oil 'cooler' as well. Used a spare block drain which happens to be the same sized fitting at the side of of the block, and just rotated the bypass hose that goes to the throttle body and it fit like a glove.
Despite what I said, the clearance was important to me and it didn't sit right in my brain , so the SC400 manifolds got tossed on. An inch is a mile here. Every bit counts.
You can see the OEM flange in this pic, which fits with enough room for me. I also cut the companions off the cats before I parted out the car and scrapped it (along with using a bunch of sheet metal from it to box the gap that was left when I cut the rockers off my 100 series).
Despite what I said, the clearance was important to me and it didn't sit right in my brain , so the SC400 manifolds got tossed on. An inch is a mile here. Every bit counts.
You can see the OEM flange in this pic, which fits with enough room for me. I also cut the companions off the cats before I parted out the car and scrapped it (along with using a bunch of sheet metal from it to box the gap that was left when I cut the rockers off my 100 series).
Next up is the dipstick. This thing got a new OEM 100 series pan and dipstick assembly. Well I'm retarded. Didn't account for the US manufactured 2uz to not have the casting drilled and tapped for the UZJ dipstick.... low IQ move at best.
I ain't pulling this s*** to drill and tap for it. Luckily, being a perpetual broke-dick motherfucker taught me to use every piece of the Buffalo. I used a piece of the bracket from the oil cooler feed pipe and finessed it to fit where i could put it and welded it to the dipstick. Was SUPER pissed at myself for my lack of observance and foresight, but we're here and we're queen
More effort than I wanted, but the bridge is crossed. It's now good to fill with oil.
I ain't pulling this s*** to drill and tap for it. Luckily, being a perpetual broke-dick motherfucker taught me to use every piece of the Buffalo. I used a piece of the bracket from the oil cooler feed pipe and finessed it to fit where i could put it and welded it to the dipstick. Was SUPER pissed at myself for my lack of observance and foresight, but we're here and we're queen
More effort than I wanted, but the bridge is crossed. It's now good to fill with oil.
Question. I believe it’s recommended to have at least 160 amps if you are going to run dual radiator fans. A shop diagnosed the alternator and noticed it isn’t charging the battery properly. I think this is causing the p2135 throttle voltage.. pedal. Pedal went into limp mode over the weekend. Alternator has about 200k. I’m going to replace it. Did anybody use an alternator that exceeds 160 amps? Which one did you get? I’m thinking of buying the Bosch one off rockauto unless convince otherwise. FYI. I added another 6 gauge wire runs straight from battery to alternator. Thanks
What voltage is your alternator outputting?
I am running the stock 105 amp GM alternator that came with the engine. Mechanical fan.
If using electric fans, I would look at an alternator that is 105 + amps required for both fans. For example, if both fans need 20 amps, then I would get at least a 145 amp alternator...
BTW, wire from the alternator is often a fusible link. I would not run a regular wire...
I have 175 amp alternator and had a similar problem. I got a p2136 or 8 can’t remember. Mine turned out to be a poorly crimped ground wire. Took me a while to figure it out.
Mechman has what ya need....
The bigger case alternator is better @NeverFinis do you have the smaller case unit A avalanche or a Denali should have the bigger case unit most of them have factory dual fans that unit should suffice in a land cruiser with electric fans as long as your wiring is up to par and as @McDowra mentioned check your wiring all this crap is why I Do Not run electric engine fans a fuse blows fans don't work relay goes bad fans don't work melt your insufficient wiring fans don't work. Mechanical fan doesn't have this problem or worry blah blah blah Tommy doesn't know what he is talking about.