80 series Slinky/ICON Long Travel Suspension officially coming to the U.S.A.

[FMC80]

Realizing there will be delays in receiving anything I figured I'd try to dial in exactly what I need.

I was looking at the Intermediate Stage 1 Slinky. My LC is currently on OMEs from PO with no exterior armor or anything adding a ton of weight. I'm looking at the intermediate as I only plan to add a front and rear bumper and possibly sliders. I'm building it mostly to overland but will be doing it primarily by towing a trailer with the gear in it. I would still like overall offroad performance to be good as I'd like to hit trails occasionally (more trails, medium-high speed general off road, less rock climbing). I'd prefer the truck to be sound on the highway as I will have to drive it everywhere vs having it trailered, it won't be my DD though. I don't intend to - at least at this time - carry more than a couple passengers and personal gear in the actual truck. Possibly a fridge/freezer in the trunk.

Curious if 75mm intermediate would be the best as I won't have that heavy of a truck? I know most run heavy/EH slinky, but my concern is that my rig won't be heavy enough for the intermeeiate slinky let alone the heavy/EH coils and will result in decreased on road performance and vibes.

Is this a valid concern with the 75mm intermediate slinky or based on my weight, should I be looking for an entirely different lift?

Thanks!

I’m going to be in the same boat wrt front and rear bumper and use my vehicle in the exact way you describe. I want to make sure I buy the right springs so as not to diminish the ride quality on the highways and don’t want sag. Once Darren opens up for business again, I’ll hit him up; he hasn’t been responding to my messages via messenger. In the meantime I’ll be following this thread.

 

[Box Rocket]

Realizing there will be delays in receiving anything I figured I'd try to dial in exactly what I need.

I was looking at the Intermediate Stage 1 Slinky. My LC is currently on OMEs from PO with no exterior armor or anything adding a ton of weight. I'm looking at the intermediate as I only plan to add a front and rear bumper and possibly sliders. I'm building it mostly to overland but will be doing it primarily by towing a trailer with the gear in it. I would still like overall offroad performance to be good as I'd like to hit trails occasionally (more trails, medium-high speed general off road, less rock climbing). I'd prefer the truck to be sound on the highway as I will have to drive it everywhere vs having it trailered, it won't be my DD though. I don't intend to - at least at this time - carry more than a couple passengers and personal gear in the actual truck. Possibly a fridge/freezer in the trunk.

Curious if 75mm intermediate would be the best as I won't have that heavy of a truck? I know most run heavy/EH slinky, but my concern is that my rig won't be heavy enough for the intermeeiate slinky let alone the heavy/EH coils and will result in decreased on road performance and vibes.

Is this a valid concern with the 75mm intermediate slinky or based on my weight, should I be looking for an entirely different lift?

Thanks!

So when I first installed the Slinky kit on my cruiser 5 years ago the truck was more or less like you described your plans. Front and rear bumpers, and sliders. Only possible difference was a rear tire carrier and a winch on the front bumper. I started with the Stage1 slinky kit with heavy coils front and rear. Personally I don't think the heavy springs are too much for a mild 80 build (bumpers/sliders/winch). I also pull a trailer frequently and I'm glad to have the heavy springs when towing the trailer. The ride was noticeably better on road compared to the OME suspension it replaced. Offroad performance and ride was even better.

The intermediates could be fine for what you want to do, but I don't think the heavy springs would be a bad choice and would give you the flexibility for more weight in the future if your build plans were to change. I don't think the on road performance is decreased with the heavy springs. The coils are only a part of the equation for ride quality. The shocks are arguably far more important to the ride quality and performance on the road.

All this said, The intermediate coils would still work well for you I think, but not have the future flexibility or the load capacity for towing.

This is my 80 the day I installed the 75mm stage1 Slinky heavy kit.
IMG_0664_zpsdniw4tcs by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Here it is pulling my trailer the next day with the stage1. Still sitting very level.
IMG_1541_zpsuvk3nggx by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Kolasin]

I think you are asking a similar question to what I had 1 year ago, which Slinky springs to get with sliders, front and rear bumpers, and winch? Based on the advice from Darren (directly) and posts like the one above by Box Rocket on the forum I went with the HD springs. When the vehicle had just myself and 3 kids and not a ton of gear, it gave me a 4" of lift in the front and 4.5" to 5" in the rear. If I loaded it full of gear for a trip with the cargo box on top full, the lift was 3" to 3.5". And by gear I mean 5 people, a huge cooler, food bin, tools, camping gear, etc. So, it needed a lot of weight to approach a 3" lift with that setup. It rode surprisingly stiff empty and rode incredibly comfortably when loaded. Note, you'll need 4" lift caster correction and a DC driveshaft to begin to tame the driveline vibrations with this setup.

I then changed to an intermediate lift, which meant changing only the rear springs as the front springs are the same for the 75mm HD and intermediate lifts. There was essentially no rake when unloaded as the lift at each corner was between 3.5" to 4" front and rear. But with the rear slightly lower. When I loaded it with gear, the front wouldn't change much but the rears would go down more to about 2", so my headlights were blinding other drivers and ensuring I could read street signs and billboards while keeping the road dark in front of me. The plus side was that the driveline vibrations went away (they never totally went away with the HD lift at highway speeds when I took my foot off the accelerator).

So, looking ahead, I'd say either get the 75mm HD lift or get the 2" HD lift which is the 75mm intermediate rear coils with the 70mm patrol coils. The only problem is that I'm not sure the 70mm patrol coils exist anymore. The previous vendor never saw any nor was able to sell them despite customer requests for the 2" HD lift. Hopefully that will change going forward. Personally, I wish I had the 2" lift. The 75mm HD was too high for my relatively light rig even though it's not a daily. I just don't have it overloaded often enough to really use the HD springs like someone with drawers, roof rack, RTT, etc.

At the end of the day, the slinky setup really does ride well off road in both high speed dirt and slow stuff.

 

[Lumpskie]

I think anyone looking at springs should weight their rig. Lots of folks have posted their weights and lift heights... so I'll add my contribution. My rig is just under 7000 lbs. With the heavy setup, I sit with 3" lift in front and about 3.5" in the rear... unloaded. Fully loaded, it sits flat at 3".

 

[Future55]

I truly appreciate all the responses. The two somewhat negative experiences above (based on weight variables not against slinky) are the kind of testimonials that make me weary with slinky being my choice. I guess I always figured a strong suspension would be the foundation of the mods done on the truck - but it sounds like I should purchase the armor first, weight the rig, and base the suspension off of that. As it sits right now, if I splurge for slinky, the armor would be a little ways further down the road and I don't know if riding around with less than stellar performance for that long would be the best choice. Still looking for opinions though, thanks again!

 

[Future55]

I then changed to an intermediate lift, which meant changing only the rear springs as the front springs are the same for the 75mm HD and intermediate lifts. There was essentially no rake when unloaded as the lift at each corner was between 3.5" to 4" front and rear. But with the rear slightly lower. When I loaded it with gear, the front wouldn't change much but the rears would go down more to about 2", so my headlights were blinding other drivers and ensuring I could read street signs and billboards while keeping the road dark in front of me.

How much gear would you load that caused that? Im assuming it was what you described loading in the paragraph above? I'm also not plnning on getting a winch, anytime soon at least, which means a lot of weight off the front.

 

[Future55]

So when I first installed the Slinky kit on my cruiser 5 years ago the truck was more or less like you described your plans. Front and rear bumpers, and sliders. Only possible difference was a rear tire carrier and a winch on the front bumper. I started with the Stage1 slinky kit with heavy coils front and rear. Personally I don't think the heavy springs are too much for a mild 80 build (bumpers/sliders/winch). I also pull a trailer frequently and I'm glad to have the heavy springs when towing the trailer. The ride was noticeably better on road compared to the OME suspension it replaced. Offroad performance and ride was even better.

The intermediates could be fine for what you want to do, but I don't think the heavy springs would be a bad choice and would give you the flexibility for more weight in the future if your build plans were to change. I don't think the on road performance is decreased with the heavy springs. The coils are only a part of the equation for ride quality. The shocks are arguably far more important to the ride quality and performance on the road.

All this said, The intermediate coils would still work well for you I think, but not have the future flexibility or the load capacity for towing.

I intend on adding the rear tire carrier to the bumper as well, but the winch would be a lot further down the road, as well as the trailer. So you believe that even unloaded, unarmored (currently), and winch-less, drive performance on road would still be better than OME?

Also, i know its changed a bunch, but what additional suspension accessories come with the kit? Do i need to purchase seperate brake lines, bumpstops, etc? I know its recommended to purchase the Slee caster correction and dc driveshaft.

 

[Road Apple]

Also, i know its changed a bunch, but what additional suspension accessories come with the kit? Do i need to purchase seperate brake lines, bumpstops, etc? I know its recommended to purchase the Slee caster correction and dc driveshaft.

The Slinky suspension kits are fairly basic and doesn’t include many items need to build your suspension. This allows the buyer to customize the suspension to fit their use and budget.

The kit doesn’t include brake lines. Not sure if bump stops are included, but they are available. Other options you can purchase from the are:
Blackhawk front radius arms
Blackhawk adjustable upper rear control arms
Blackhawk HD lower rear control arm
Blackhawk HD rear swaybar
Blackhawk adjustable rear panhard
Blackhawk adjustable front panhard

Have a look at the 4XOverland website for details.

4XOUSA.com

Home of the famous slinky long travel suspension kit.

4xousa.com

Toyota 80 / 105 series TD and petrol Icon Stage 1 Intermediate 75mm lift.

4xoaus.com.au is the go to store for all your 4wd accessories.and requirements.

4xoaus.com.au

 

[Kolasin]

How much gear would you load that caused that? Im assuming it was what you described loading in the paragraph above? I'm also not plnning on getting a winch, anytime soon at least, which means a lot of weight off the front.

Most recently the load was 3 adults, 3 kids, 5 day cooler with food, large food bin, recovery tools and maxtrax, large yakima box with 2 pairs of skis and boots, 4 sleds, and snow gear. It was loaded enough to not see out the back window. It also absorbed bumps and speed tables like a dream.

I have to give credit to Lumpskie for breaking in down quantitatively. I know of a scale 30 min away, eventually I would like to know the weight. According to edmunds the stock 1997 80 weighs 4834 lbs. I doubt my vehicle weighs more than 5500 lbs with the bumpers, winch, and sliders when empty. Understanding the vehicle's weight would go a long way in fitting the proper springs. That's an expensive lesson learned.

 

[Broski]

Most recently the load was 3 adults, 3 kids, 5 day cooler with food, large food bin, recovery tools and maxtrax, large yakima box with 2 pairs of skis and boots, 4 sleds, and snow gear. It was loaded enough to not see out the back window. It also absorbed bumps and speed tables like a dream.

I have to give credit to Lumpskie for breaking in down quantitatively. I know of a scale 30 min away, eventually I would like to know the weight. According to edmunds the stock 1997 80 weighs 4834 lbs. I doubt my vehicle weighs more than 5500 lbs with the bumpers, winch, and sliders when empty. Understanding the vehicle's weight would go a long way in fitting the proper springs. That's an expensive lesson learned.

I think you will be surprised when you weigh it!!!

 

[scottryana]

Most recently the load was 3 adults, 3 kids, 5 day cooler with food, large food bin, recovery tools and maxtrax, large yakima box with 2 pairs of skis and boots, 4 sleds, and snow gear. It was loaded enough to not see out the back window. It also absorbed bumps and speed tables like a dream.

I have to give credit to Lumpskie for breaking in down quantitatively. I know of a scale 30 min away, eventually I would like to know the weight. According to edmunds the stock 1997 80 weighs 4834 lbs. I doubt my vehicle weighs more than 5500 lbs with the bumpers, winch, and sliders when empty. Understanding the vehicle's weight would go a long way in fitting the proper springs. That's an expensive lesson learned.

This weight is not correct for stock. I weighed a completely stock 97 and it is around 5280. I think that low curb weight is the lowest weight possible, i.e. poverty pack, manual transmission configuration

 

[Future55]

The Slinky suspension kits are fairly basic and doesn’t include many items need to build your suspension. This allows the buyer to customize the suspension to fit their use and budget.

The kit doesn’t include brake lines. Not sure if bump stops are included, but they are available. Other options you can purchase from the are:
Blackhawk front radius arms
Blackhawk adjustable upper rear control arms
Blackhawk HD lower rear control arm
Blackhawk HD rear swaybar
Blackhawk adjustable rear panhard
Blackhawk adjustable front panhard

Have a look at the 4XOverland website for details.

Thank you. I was on 4XOverland US and saw a bunch of SKUs as accessories underneathe on the kit page but couldn't find what they associated with. Taking the easy way out here - but what you say are the essential accessories needed to run the lift?

Most recently the load was 3 adults, 3 kids, 5 day cooler with food, large food bin, recovery tools and maxtrax, large yakima box with 2 pairs of skis and boots, 4 sleds, and snow gear. It was loaded enough to not see out the back window. It also absorbed bumps and speed tables like a dream.

I have to give credit to Lumpskie for breaking in down quantitatively. I know of a scale 30 min away, eventually I would like to know the weight. According to edmunds the stock 1997 80 weighs 4834 lbs. I doubt my vehicle weighs more than 5500 lbs with the bumpers, winch, and sliders when empty. Understanding the vehicle's weight would go a long way in fitting the proper springs. That's an expensive lesson learned.

It sounds like your rig was outfitted similar to Box Rocket - I'm surprised your experience with the 75mm HD was that different.

 

[Road Apple]

what you say are the essential accessories needed to run the lift?

What is essential will be based on your truck’s intended use or mission. How are you planning to use your truck? Not sure what the Hill Country around Austin has to offer for wheeling. Wimberley has some rocky areas and river crossings if I remember correctly.

I’m building my truck for difficult rocky trails in the Sierras on 37’s, so I upgraded most of the suspension. Both upper and lower control arms, both front and rear panhards, radius arms, and heavy duty rear sway bar. I also upgraded the front axle and steering system. These were essential in my eyes to avoid damage and trail repairs.

If you’re planning to run bigger tires on rocky trails regularly, I’d consider upgrading these as well. If you’re mainly camping and overlanding, put off buying suspension accessories and upgrade them as you change your plan. A 30mm HD rear sway bar, paired with a set of LCP’s HD links, by all accounts, adds significantly to road manners and handling, especially if heavy.

Severe Duty Rear Sway Bar Links - Land Cruiser Products - LCP

Land Cruiser Products Land Cruiser Parts

sites.google.com

Stage 4 includes 2.5” adjustable compression bypass shocks, which smooth out the trail nicely at higher speeds without fading. If you’re planning to drive trails fast, stage 1 would be ok, but stage 4 will give you 10 compression settings to chose from and adjust according to current weight and conditions.

Have a look at the articles @Box Rocket wrote. He has a more recent article as well, which both give very good descriptions of what you can expect from Slinky.

80 Series “Ultimate Touring” Slinky Long Travel Suspension

Toyota Truck, Land Cruiser, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, and Tacoma News & Information. We cover all models including Lexus SUVs used for exploration.

tctmagazine.net

You’ll want a Delta VS rear panhard lift bracket or something similar. The Blackhawk radius arms correct castor, but you could use caster plates to save the budget for other items. If you’re in the rocks, a set of Eimkeith LLC’s will save your lower control arm mounts.

Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ/FZJ80/LX450 Rear Panhard Lift Bracket

Fix your rear end wiggle!

www.deltavs.com

Lower Link Mount Skids/Reinforcement

If you're wheeling your 4Runner (or FJ, or GX, or 80-Series LandCruiser) you're eventually going to beef up your rear axle links. Then, due to the extreme angle

eimkeith.com

 

[96bruizer]

@Future55 if you find yourself needing heavier springs, you can always upgrade the rear like I did. The springs are very inexpensive. only takes an hour to remove and install new ones.

 

[motormayhem]

Just tried to install a LCP sway bar disconnect setup in the front. Seems with the droop on the slinky kit the sway bar hits the driveshaft at full droop. @Box Rocket do you have LCP disconnects? Did you have to lengthen the sway bar drops from what comes with the slinky kit?

 

[Box Rocket]

Just tried to install a LCP sway bar disconnect setup in the front. Seems with the droop on the slinky kit the sway bar hits the driveshaft at full droop. @Box Rocket do you have LCP disconnects? Did you have to lengthen the sway bar drops from what comes with the slinky kit?

Are you saying the driveshaft contacts the swaybar at droop when the swaybar is disconnected or connected?

I didn't modify the swaybar drop spacers. However, since I have Timbren bumpstops that bolt to the frame in the location that the LCP disconnects bolt to I had to change the disconnect solution. I just welded a tab with a hole to the bottom of the frame in the right location for the swaybar to "disconnect" in the same way the LCP ones do. Easy Peasy.

 

[motormayhem]

Are you saying the driveshaft contacts the swaybar at droop when the swaybar is disconnected or connected?

I didn't modify the swaybar drop spacers. However, since I have Timbren bumpstops that bolt to the frame in the location that the LCP disconnects bolt to I had to change the disconnect solution. I just welded a tab with a hole to the bottom of the frame in the right location for the swaybar to "disconnect" in the same way the LCP ones do. Easy Peasy.

Huh interesting, ya driveshaft contacts the sway bar when it is in the disconnected position. Looks like if I move the disconnect point back and down a bit I can make it work. Just curious what others have done.

 

[Box Rocket]

Huh interesting, ya driveshaft contacts the sway bar when it is in the disconnected position. Looks like if I move the disconnect point back and down a bit I can make it work. Just curious what others have done.

That’s pretty much exactly what I’ve done. The tabs I welded in are back a bit from where the LCP ones would be so the swaybar drops rotate backward when disconnected so that the swaybar lines up with the tabs.

 

[FMC80]

After months of waiting and not getting any replies from Darren at 4XOUSA, on a whim, I decided to check out Mill Creek Overland again. They've been out of the Slinky's for some time now but looks like they're back in stock. They didn't have the Stage 4s as I wanted but figured Stage 1s will suit my needs until further notice. So, now it's a waiting game for them to ship to Jonesborough, TN where I'll be in about 2 weeks for leave. I plan to check them in my luggage back to Hawaii for install. Can't wait!

 

[Aeneiad]

After months of waiting and not getting any replies from Darren at 4XOUSA, on a whim, I decided to check out Mill Creek Overland again. They've been out of the Slinky's for some time now but looks like they're back in stock. They didn't have the Stage 4s as I wanted but figured Stage 1s will suit my needs until further notice. So, now it's a waiting game for them to ship to Jonesborough, TN where I'll be in about 2 weeks for leave. I plan to check them in my luggage back to Hawaii for install. Can't wait!

I'm really close to pulling the trigger on the Slinky's as well but I'm waiting for the 75mm Stage 4 to come back into stock. It seems like all of the upgrades I want to do are in a holding pattern due to inventory levels.