80 or 100

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Well I hope this is tech enough, I am in the 40 section most of the day.

The wife is warming up to getting an 80 or 100 series. Let me repeat that... The wife is warming up to getting an 80 or 100 series. this after we bought an economical Honda Civic Last year. We are expecting our first child in July. and she is all geeked up about 3rd row seating. The new 4 runners have that option.

We have a 1970 FJ 40, a 97 4 Runner, and the Civic or "go kart" as I call it.


Could someone please run down in a nut shell what 80 or 100 series cruisers are the best. I have read somewhere 1997 80s was a good year. But dont really know why.

This truck will see NO wheeling Sorry. It may pull a trailer with my 40series on it.

So whats the creme of the crop. I know I want the lockers. Price could be from 10K to 20K. Miles would like under 100K. Location depends. I like to drive.

And Thank you very much for the adivce in advance.
 
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I had a 99 100 series..

SOLD it... too many moving parts for me with IFS front end.
the other and major thing for me is that I don't like to change out timing belts
on that Alum block 4.7... I can only imagine the cost of that 90k change-out.
I had alot of little things go wrong that bugged the crap out of me.

sunroof leaked
oil sender went out and scared the piss out of me.
plastic flip tray door broke
battery would die if it sat for a week.. drain somewhere
tires wore uneven on front IFS
rattle I could not find
starter locations sucks big time ( starter cost $$)
any dealer part or service was $$$$$$$$$$$$$


80 series all the way.
 
I posted this question a week ago in both the 80 and 100 forums and there are 10 pages of responses. I picked up a 2000-100.

I'll get myself another rig in a few years for the tough stuff:) In the meantime, this thing is absolutely solid.

You can get a 99 with rear locker for 16-20,000 and under 100,000 mi.
 
Make sure you drive them both before you listen to what ANY of us have to say. I was intent on an 80 till I drove the 100. The 80 felt like a bank vault on wheels, so did the 100. I could afford the 100 and felt like I was getting more advancements so I spent the extra. I've put plenty of trouble free miles on my 100 and an ABOVE average amount of those miles have been offroad as I have used this as a work vehicle.

As far as the dreaded t-belt change out don't be too concerned about it. At a whopping $380 every 90,000 miles it costs $.0042 per mile :) Yes that is less than half a penny/mi.

edit: another thing to look for is the CV boots. This is basically an age related maintenance item in my book. Check for any signs of leaking around them. The rubber will crack with age causing them to leak. I had mine changed at 102,000 miles for a cost of $400.
 
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Rofl :)
 
I have NEVER had an issue with any 100's (I have owned two) and I have accumulated 85000 miles between the two. No, they were not new. I have driven an 80 and it was a slug compared to the 100. This was a 1997 80 with 56k last year. Both are comfy but the 100 wins out in my book.

Jason
 
Bennett said:
I had a 99 100 series..

SOLD it... too many moving parts for me with IFS front end.
the other and major thing for me is that I don't like to change out timing belts
on that Alum block 4.7... I can only imagine the cost of that 90k change-out.
I had alot of little things go wrong that bugged the crap out of me.

sunroof leaked
oil sender went out and scared the piss out of me.
plastic flip tray door broke
battery would die if it sat for a week.. drain somewhere
tires wore uneven on front IFS
rattle I could not find
starter locations sucks big time ( starter cost $$)
any dealer part or service was $$$$$$$$$$$$$


80 series all the way.

Bennett, you screwed up big time. You should of kept that 99 100 series with the all Aluminum engine. You would of had the only one made. :)
 
Bennett said:
sunroof leaked
oil sender went out and scared the piss out of me.
plastic flip tray door broke
battery would die if it sat for a week.. drain somewhere
tires wore uneven on front IFS
rattle I could not find
starter locations sucks big time ( starter cost $$)
any dealer part or service was $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Hmm...
Not to sound too bitchy, but it doesn't sound like that is alot of problems.

Those are all very minor things that most owners of lamer SUVs would love to only have those problems, a oil sending unit, HA, try the front knuckle breaking while driving down the road like a H2. Try having 5-10 major recalls on a vehicle that is 1-2 years old!

Battery would die, did you ever look at this, probably not hard to figure out what is drawing power, and my bet would be an aftermarket alarm, or something added after the factory.

Tires wore uneven, did you get an alignment, rotate the tires, etc?

A rattle would be annoying I'm sure, but usually not that hard to figure out where it's coming from.

Starter location is a pain yes, but it's not much work to get to it. I have done the starter contact replacement on a '99, about 4-5 hours of 1-banana work I'd say.

Dealers charge alot for little to no service? Say it ain't so!! :D

I would challenge you to find a better vehicle made by any other company, with as few of problems as you had and with dealers who were cheaper to fix any random problem.
 
"There is NO way in Hell, I'm posting on this thread!"

John, now that was funny. Made my day.

zetasig:

100 suck. Don't take one even if they give you one!
 
I guess what I am trying to figure out is bang for the buck. (like everyone else) I have owned a tacoma and loved it. Sold it for a down payment on a house. We have a 97 4 Runner and really like it. No problems to speak of and the odo is at 116K.

This wont see any rock crawling, wheeling etc. maybe some mud in the yard. read the sig line. thats what the 40 on 36s is for. Probably pull a trailer with it, and get dogs, kids and grocerys.

I have read a few times about the front CV service and the timing belts. But I am really interested in the front and rear lockers, and central switch.

So I am guessing thats an 80 series.

Sorry if this has been discussed and is a re post. I trust the people on this board more than I trust most of my co workers so I want to hear opinions and advice.
 
???? You don't be seeing rock crawling and wheeling. OK, that's a 100.

???? You need a tow rig? OK, that's a 100.

???? You want lockers? An ARB locked 100 has stronger diffs than a factory locked 80 or 100.

????
 
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Quote This wont see any rock crawling, wheeling etc. maybe some mud in the yard. read the sig line. thats what the 40 on 36s is for. Probably pull a trailer with it, and get dogs, kids and grocerys.Quote

Why do you want lockers, then? Just curious.
 
After driving the 80 and an LX450, we decided to get the 100 due to the larger interior space, V8, and more comfortable ride. I loaded 7 passengers in this thing and took them out to dinner. Everyone was impressed with the comfort and room inside. I am extremely impressed with the 4.7 V8 and transmission. Very smooth and torque is great. MUCH more impressive than the Ford V8's I drive at work.

If the 100 isn't going to be doing difficult trails then you will be very well served by the traction control system (2000+). ARB lockers can alway be added, if you choose.

I don't understand what CV issues you are worried about. A new CV costs $350 and the swap should take about 30 minutes if you know what you are doing. Boots will eventually leak, but they cost like $20 to replace.

Timing belts??? You change them every 90K. Basic maintence item. If you shop around, you should not pay more than $500-600.

I highly recommend that you go drive a 100 and 80 and decide which one is right for your family. Either way, you can't loose.
 

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