Build 74 red piggie

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Looks like a damage multiplier repeat!

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This is my 4th pig and second 74. She's all original - F155 and 4 speed. No immediate plans other than to just drive her as is and, maybe, try and fix the dent in the driver's side fender and door. She's on her way to TN from Albuquerque with a few extra parts. Looking forward to seeing her tomorrow, I believe.

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Straight bodies are for car shows. Enjoy that lumpy Pig! Looks like a fun place to start and enjoy.
 
This is my 4th pig and second 74. She's all original - F155 and 4 speed. No immediate plans other than to just drive her as is and, maybe, try and fix the dent in the driver's side fender and door. She's on her way to TN from Albuquerque with a few extra parts. Looking forward to seeing her tomorrow, I believe.

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‘74 w/ a 4-spd might have the transition gear in the t-case.
I don’t remember the exact ratio, but it is a deeper Lo range.

Congrats!

What is your build date?
 
‘74 w/ a 4-spd might have the transition gear in the t-case.
I don’t remember the exact ratio, but it is a deeper Lo range.
As I recall, and I've done it twice, the transition case is special as it is allows you to put the gears from a 3-speed case into it. The crawl ratio jumps a massive 4% or 6% or something like that. There used to be a write-up in the tech links but I can't find it anymore.
 
We're about 600 VIN apart...

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According to the interwebs:

Production Details for 1974
    • Starting Frame Number: 167404 (January 1974)
    • Ending Frame Number: 177325 (December 1974)
So I assume your frame is a 1975 model?
 
Not yet. The tires on those wheels hardly have any wear on them, but the date code is mid 2008. Still might go ahead and put them on because I’ll be in the midst of short trips just to get it sorted for quite a while I expect.
 
Not yet. The tires on those wheels hardly have any wear on them, but the date code is mid 2008. Still might go ahead and put them on because I’ll be in the midst of short trips just to get it sorted for quite a while I expect.
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One of them will decide to go at some point. Tires of that age are unsafe at any road speed.
 
So I assume your frame is a 1975 model?
Usually, one could safely assume that, but not in 1974. It was a transition year and the big change was scheduled for 1/1/'75 so they built the '74s right up to the last minute. I had to go 'round and 'round with the smog nazis about this once...
 
Rejetted. It had 120 in the primary and 180 in the secondaries. Perfect, on average, but afraid it doesn’t work that way. Replaced them with 150 and 155. It runs good but still seemed to hear a little backfire but could be in my head too. Not nearly what it was if so. I’ll probably check timing and vacuum leaks next. The driver’s side door is a real adventure. Just the slightest bump when turning right causes it to swing wildly out. Need to fix my seat belts and that door too.

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Checked the timing and for vacuum leaks. Timing was spot on at 9 degrees above TDC. Couldn’t find any vacuum leaks. The vacuum for the crankcase at idle was -12 in Hg, which seems a little on the high end. But it idles and accelerates well, so I think I’m done tuning for now.

On to that door and seat belts.
 
The vacuum for the crankcase at idle was -12 in Hg, which seems a little on the high end.
Where are you measuring the vacuum from? Usually we use a port on the intake manifold. 12" Hg is low for manifold vacuum at idle. 20" is good.
Some engines like a bit more timing advance, maybe try advancing your timing while watching the vacuum gauge and see what happens.
 
I connected the gauge to big vacuum port on the spacer between the carb and intake. I’ll try advancing the timing to see what that does to the vacuum. Could definitely use more vacuum.
 
I connected the gauge to big vacuum port on the spacer between the carb and intake.
That may not be the best place to get an accurate vacuum reading. But it might be, I don't know. I use one of the threaded ports right on the manifold.
Back in the day, before adjustable timing lights, we would time by manifold vacuum: advance until you got your best idle vacuum, then back off just a hair. Back off a little more if it pinged.
 
I tried more advance taking vacuum from an intake port. When I advance the timing, I’d get more vacuum but, mostly, because my idle rpm’s would increase. By the time I set the idle back to 650 at advanced setting, the vacuum would be back to where it was originally. So, I set the timing back to 9o above TDC and after adjusting idle I was at about -14 in Hg.

I went ahead and checked compression and cleaned all the plugs. The compression looks consistent, but low.

Basically, the conclusion is this f155 has some miles on her, but still runs well, doesn’t leak or smoke. Took her for a drive and she cruises at 65, no problem. Went up to 75 and could have kept going, but the speed limit was 55, so cooled it. She’s a bit ugly, but this is a good running pig.

Oh, fixed the door and seat belts too. Might work on the tailgate window mechanism next, but got a few other rigs that need attention first.

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