56k Warning! Fun with wires!

[alkaline747trio]

Wanted to have a switch for my carb fan, so I can switch it on when I think things are too hot, not when Mr. T thinks.

Here's the relay, I accidentally got the wrong one; make sure you get normally open for this application.


This is the hot wire to the lighted toggle switch.


Ground wire from switch to factory ground on fan.


Hot wires to relay from battery.


Hot wire to fan from relay.


Purdy lighted switch where the hand throttle would mount, didn't feel like digging to get the wires to the hole over to the left where the mysterious red light normally is, but will move when I get the hand throttle.


Not the greatest place to route the wire, but didn't feel like tearing into the wire loom. This wire will be replaced with a 10g or bigger and be run around the firewall in the next few days.




Notched this rubber plug for the switch and stereo amp wires to pass through.


I think it works well.


Two channel amp for now, wired up to front doop speakers, fade adjusted on head-unit for more power to rear speakers. This combination works OK, and eleminated distortion which is why I wired it in. will be replaced by a 4-channel, and this one will be relocated and will be powering two Kicker L7 12" Subs.


Another little contraption I made up. I had several leaks in the line running to my rear sprayer, so I unplugged it at the union right in the DS floorboard (the cause of my "liquid" that resulted in me tearing out half my carpte), snipped the very end off a pen, and put it in the end of the hose. Nice little stream for those pesky pedestrians.


And another reason to be careful taking apart your dash. Even in 90* heat this happened.

 

[Erratic]

That dash is a biotch! Do you have a fuse on that power wire? If not, you need one. Any short will turn those wires into the wires in a toaster. And as far as relays go, many of them have both Normally closed and normally open configurations. Also make sure you get some shrink tube on those relay connections so you don't accidentally drop a wrench on there. The squirter looks like fun. I might have to do that!

 

[alkaline747trio]

The wire to the battery is only temporary, will be fused and replaced with 10 or 8g. The one I have only works one way, normally closed. I'm not gonna use shrinks, it's easy enough to replace stuff there, and shrinks would make it more difficult. I do plan to wrap the relay in a balloon.

Just so everyone knows, that area that the relay is located is where the silence for the air pump normally is. I'm slowly but surely getting this thing desmogged. Just need to pull the intake and clean it so I can put the plugs in the air injector holes and pull the air rail.

 

[Koffer]

Please clean that up some .
useing the gommet for the wires to go though is worthless since they are rubbing the metal of the firewall hole . Dump the spade connectors to screw termals on the relay as they will just loosen up and spin around and short out to one another. get some spilt loom . solder and shrink boot the connections . also will the speaker wire handle the temps and grease under the hood ? I know a balloon wont.
You could have just hooked a switch to the ground wire off the sensor and used the factory relay . 1 wire to under the hood and one to ground under the dash and thats it

I know Im sorry I sound very harsh but when I see things like this its just a matter of time that something will go wrong .

 

[alkaline747trio]

This was all just test fitting and such. I plan to use split loom wherever possible. The power wire will be replaced with larger wire and will be placed in split loom with the amp wire.


Yes, I believe the speaker wire will work for the engine temps, all my dumbass ricer friends use it and don't have problems (about the only thing they do that works).

I have thought about it, and I think I am gonna solder the wires to the new relay, and try the balloon, if the balloon doesn't hold up, then I will try something else.

Where the relay is located right now actually stays very cool because of the cool air from the radiator fan that blowing on it.

I was advised to use a relay in this application when I asked about this in a thread over in the 40/55 tech area. I also thought that adding a relay was necessary for it to still work as MR. T designed it to, but allow me to switch it on when I think it should.

If I had thought more about this, and read the wiring diagram more carefully, I probably would have just used the switch. But this was easy enough, and all that is left now is a little clean-up.

 

[Beowulf]

... useing the gommet for the wires to go though is worthless since they are rubbing the metal of the firewall hole .

Alkaline,
Heed this advice.

The way you used the grommet is counter-intuitive. You want the wire to pass through the grommet by poking a hole in the center. The purpose of the grommet is to insulate the metal hole from your wires.

-B-

 

[alkaline747trio]

Alkaline,
Heed this advice.

The way you used the grommet is counter-intuitive. You want the wire to pass through the grommet by poking a hole in the center. The purpose of the grommet is to insulate the metal hole from your wires.

-B-

I was using it to keep the engine noise out.

 

[Beowulf]

I was using it to keep the engine noise out.

Mr Koffer, I believe we've had our legs pulled. Alakaline made up this post to sucker us in and he succeeded.



-B-

 

[CJF]

Mr Koffer, I believe we've had our legs pulled.

If that is the case, he will have moved up in my esteem.



Curtis

 

[alkaline747trio]

Suckered you all in? What'd I do? You hurt my feelings, I'm only a child!