3B rebuild

[lumpy70]

That's imperial gallons. 4.54 litres to an Imperial gallon.

We are a British Colony after all.

Craig.

 

[mk1pickle]

ok so the only thing that HAS to be machined are the liners and thats if you dont get the semi finished ones that only need honing..every thing else requires a press or measuring equipment.. no need to deck the head if you check it and its straight... you can do the rebuild with the engine in the truck and still get another 400K kms out of it, assuming you havent overheated it or let it nock the piss out of the bottom end and kept up on your valve adjusts. Really these engines are glorified tractor motors right down to the bearing clearances wich reflect thier design longevity in the minimum operating oil pressure specs, the gear on gear valve train, the mechanical lifters that need adjust, and oldschool nonturbo diesel technology made to be serviced anywhere.. you dont need to machine anything really as long as things measure out allright. do whatever you want really... but just know that there are cheaper means to get your motor rebuilt in every sense of the word whilst the engine sits in your yard sans transmission..bottom line...its been done before with great results and with much much less spent than $4000!! p.s. the oldtimers i hang with say DO THE BURNER CUPS no matter what....

 

[Greg_B]

Don't forget that while the net is a wonderful information tool, prices you see quoted can be a few years old. The world is a changing place. Shipping and metal prices tend to have trended up these last few years. Labor costs have risen as well.

I remember hearing a general rule given a number of years ago for a deep rebuild of a Toyota diesel of around $1000.00 per hole. This depends on current pricing and how much you can do yourself...but still seems a good general rule.

hth's

gb

 

[mk1pickle]

personally i think the internet is full of crap that you have to sift through to find a reasonable idea of how things really work. everyone has an opinion and i realize that.. to someone else my opinion is worth nothing. i.e. they dont own any bore gauges, micrometers,straight edges, calipers, or access to a liner press tool. in fact the first rebuild i did on my dads 1980 diesel rabbit was a complete failure.. i didnt know there were only a few thou between the piston and valve and that each motor had to have a specific headgasketa and bolts thta could only be torqued once.. but then again i was 15 and eager to learn.. i have blown up alot of expensive stuff, wrecked alot of stuff learning and im not afraid to admit that. the fact is these motors arent even close to the level of sophisication a diesel VW engine is. the true meaning of sophistication being "complicated".. not a good thing!! whatever way you slice it a "deep" rebuild will cost you 1000 per hole.. but you dont need to do a deep rebuild do you? all im saying is.... its been done cheaper..in the neighbourhood of 300-500 per hole and recently, yes im saying keep your clutch and waterpump and all the bits..

 

[lowenbrau]

I tend to agree with all sides of the arguement here. There are a lot of levels of a rebuild. Sometimes you can fix a problem without overhauling the whole engine. Maybe you just need some rings. Maybe a quick rehone of your existing sleeves will do the job. A bearing swap on a crank that needs no machining will cost a bunch less than one that does. Toyota used to quote $10K for a 3B rebuild and if that was comprehensive and done by a Toyota mechanic using Toyota parts it might not be out of line. If your oil pump is out of spec you might be able to fix it with some $300 gears or you might have to drop the $1500 for the whole timing cover. Fortunately some of us DIY guys have learned a few tricks from the old timers and from experience. Equally fortunate are the affordable JDM engines that are often in the first third of their life and available with a t-charger for the cost of a rebuild of your old NA enigine. That's the route I went last time I was faced with the decision.