24V alarm system?

[AK101]

Anyone in Az had any luck sourcing a 24v car alarm or running a 12v one off of a 24v>12v converter?

Thanks!

 

[ARJMN]

@D_Web

 

[D_Web]

Could bodge it up and just connect it across one battery. If one of the batteries ever fails it'll probably fry the alarm. Otherwise just get a down converter. Will add some parasitic draw so if it's going to be left sitting for a decent period of time you might want to keep a trickle charger on it.

 

[AK101]

Is this the same thing as a 'down converter'? Thanks!


Amazon product ASIN B01JAIC7OO

 

[D_Web]

Yeah, that should work just fine.

 

[GWcruiser]

You can buy one of these sorts of things: a buck converter. Efficiently drops 24v down to 12v. You need to know the maximum current the alarm draws to ensure the converter you buy will handle it (xx amps). And, then either spend money for a converter that has a pretty case, or buy a raw unit like this one and build your own water resistant case for it (probably needs a fan for cooling for heat sink).

www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9V4S39

Or an enclosed ready to go model.

www.amazon.com/Automatic-Converter-6A-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B07WFMKMV9

ps:

Also - many alarms work by sensing the drop in DC when a door is opened and a light comes on or the engine cranks while armed. A 12v alarm of this type is defeated when connected through a converter.

And some alarms have sense wires that connect to the door light switch, which is not 'handled' when using a buck converter. Connecting a 24v circuit to a 12v alarm input can cause damage, and adding circuitry to compensate is possible, but will require some expertise.

24v alarms are cheap enough, why not just buy the proper alarm for the 24v system?
www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Truck-Alarm-Car-Alarm-Security-System-2-Keyless-Entry-Remote-Protect-Warning-/171970160499

 

[AK101]

I had not yet seen that 24v model, thanks