I have the 86280-0W061 JBL amp and I am installing a new Sony amp for better sound/bluetooth capability. However, I don't have a wiring diagram or pin out for the factory amp so I don't know what wires I need to splice into. I've been searching the forum for some time now and I can't seem to find anything. Any help greatly appreciated.
2005 JBL amp bypass - need wiring diagram (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ixian
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YezusLX
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I believe this might be what you need. If not reach out to @suprarx7nut He has a nice video on YotaMD/Youtube that can help you.
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser (2003-07)
Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 2003 - 2007 / 100 Series Land Cruiser Updated: 7/17/2012 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is not
tlcfaq.com
I believe this might be what you need. If not reach out to @suprarx7nut He has a nice video on YotaMD/Youtube that can help you.
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser (2003-07)
Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 2003 - 2007 / 100 Series Land Cruiser Updated: 7/17/2012 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is nottlcfaq.com
Looking for the same and keep beating my head against the wall on this. That doesn't help. What he needs, and I need, are a wiring diagram for the amp - not the head unit. This, and every other diagram I've found on these forums, are for the head unit rather than the amp.
I have it mostly figured out now, if I get it all working will post - I have the front and sub working but not the rear speakers for some reason. Currently I am tapping in to the high (speaker) output of the factory amp though I would prefer to replace it if there were a good diagram explaining how to do that -- without removing the nav or head unit.
Hello - I was able to get this all working today. Took a lot of research and a little guessing but it works.
I have a 2006 LC100 with the JBL stereo / factory nav, unmodified until this weekend
I used an AudioControl LC6i to convert the high-side output from the factory amp into line level outputs, then sent that to a Clarion XC2510 amp which is powering my speakers. I chose Infinity Reference REF-6530cx woofer & tweeter sets for the front speakers and Infinity Reference REF-6532ex two-way speakers for the rear. I also replaced the factory sub with a Kicker 48CWRT674 6.75" subwoofer which fits into the factory enclosure with minimal modification.
The diagrams posted above are correct, as are those posted elsewhere on the forums; it took some exploration to figure out some of the details. You will want to splice into pin one from the S7 connector for your amp power on as indicated here.
This is my current setup prior to being screwed down and otherwise tidying up. I removed the rather large bracket holding the factory amp on from above, put some sound deadening material on the floor underneath to level it and attached it with strong two-sided tape, then attached the wood on top of it with some spacers for air flow. Probably not what the pros would do but it worked and left me the space to get the lc6i under the seat.
Here's an example of splicing in the wires. I spliced from the output side of the factory amp in just before the wires exit back to the speakers.
Happy to answer any questions about what I did, if it can be of help to anyone.
Also - I would much rather take the factory amp out of the loop entirely if that is possible without breaking the nav and/or climate controls. I don't use the voice navigation so don't care if it can talk to me or not. I have read various posts here saying don't do it, it will break everything; someone suggesting that the inputs on S7 for the speakers are non-standard and some sort of digital signal; and other comments that made me stay away from this approach. If anyone has any experience splicing into S7 and I can make it work without losing factory controls or nav, I would love more details.
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Thank @jerryb and @mattskiva for all the info. I can also confirm the pin outs for the S6 & S7 connectors are correct. The '05 LC does not have the additional R36 connector. The color coding on the wiring was throwing me off as the schematics do not show the stripe (i.e. Red is actually Red/Grey) but there are few enough wires that mixing them up should not be an issue. The new amp is integrated into the system and sounds much better.
I did want to share a couple of comments on my experience. I tried splicing into the input side of the amp for signal but had some issues. The aftermarket amp expected both sig+ and sig- but on the stock amp there is just one "SGND" or pin 11 so I tied all the sig- to that. That did not work very well and the signal was so low voltage that the aftermarket amp max volume was less than the stock system. I decided to leave the stock wiring to the input side of the JBL amp as original and instead use the output signal as it should be much higher voltage. This also allowed for individual sig+/sig- to the aftermarket amp. So, this is not really an "amp bypass" as the stock JBL is inline with the aftermarket amp. This is working well currently and the sound is much improved (clarity and volume). It is interesting in that the sound quality changes by source. The radio sounds great with good bass/mid clarity. However, the CD input drops a little bass and the aftermarket Bluetooth module tucked behind the head unit looses even more bass/mid. It's pretty flat and a little on the "tinny" side. This is what I was trying to solve for when I bought an amp with integrated bluetooth (Sony XM-GS6DSP). Don't buy this amp if you're looking for seamless bluetooth integration with your current system. You have to use Sony's "Music Center" to increase volume and other settings as detailed in this Amazon review). This means no way to mute the system or control the volume with the head unit.
So, for now I have a better sound system but it's still not great. I am not getting any stray signal/motor noise through the audio system and that is a big win as I've tried chasing that down before with little success. I mainly use Bluetooth as a source and I guess it just doesn't have enough bandwidth/sampling rate for high quality sound. I'm sticking with the aftermarket bluetooth module tucked behind the head unit since it allows for all the normal sound control through the head unit. I've still got the nav "beep" and I can mute/advance song via the steering wheel controls. The Sony amp is working as good as can be expected but sucks with bluetooth integration so I've turned that off.
Hope this helps the person and thanks again from all of you for the info.
I did want to share a couple of comments on my experience. I tried splicing into the input side of the amp for signal but had some issues. The aftermarket amp expected both sig+ and sig- but on the stock amp there is just one "SGND" or pin 11 so I tied all the sig- to that. That did not work very well and the signal was so low voltage that the aftermarket amp max volume was less than the stock system. I decided to leave the stock wiring to the input side of the JBL amp as original and instead use the output signal as it should be much higher voltage. This also allowed for individual sig+/sig- to the aftermarket amp. So, this is not really an "amp bypass" as the stock JBL is inline with the aftermarket amp. This is working well currently and the sound is much improved (clarity and volume). It is interesting in that the sound quality changes by source. The radio sounds great with good bass/mid clarity. However, the CD input drops a little bass and the aftermarket Bluetooth module tucked behind the head unit looses even more bass/mid. It's pretty flat and a little on the "tinny" side. This is what I was trying to solve for when I bought an amp with integrated bluetooth (Sony XM-GS6DSP). Don't buy this amp if you're looking for seamless bluetooth integration with your current system. You have to use Sony's "Music Center" to increase volume and other settings as detailed in this Amazon review). This means no way to mute the system or control the volume with the head unit.
So, for now I have a better sound system but it's still not great. I am not getting any stray signal/motor noise through the audio system and that is a big win as I've tried chasing that down before with little success. I mainly use Bluetooth as a source and I guess it just doesn't have enough bandwidth/sampling rate for high quality sound. I'm sticking with the aftermarket bluetooth module tucked behind the head unit since it allows for all the normal sound control through the head unit. I've still got the nav "beep" and I can mute/advance song via the steering wheel controls. The Sony amp is working as good as can be expected but sucks with bluetooth integration so I've turned that off.
Hope this helps the person and thanks again from all of you for the info.
