Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

[Vae Victus]

Progress this week:
Well, since it is raining here again this weekend (2nd in a row), I spent time Friday working on removing the transmission. Since this is my first time, it is taking me a while to figure out things as I go.

For example, it took me about 30 minutes to figure out how to remove the eBrake Cable (you don't, but thought it was the speedo cable), and then another 45 minutes to get the eBrake drum off (after prying on it for 44 minutes, realized the parking brake was on. Once I realized what the problem was, I smiled, got out from under the vehicle, released it, and just pulled it off).



eBrake was in better shape than I thought. Pads were not soaked. I have a replacement set from SOR and will redo and readjust everything. Drum was rusty but very dry on the brake friction surface.



Then went at the transmission hump to get that off. Had to cut off a couple of badly rusted hex heads, remove the heater (kept looking for a wire to remove, but realized that it was simply radiant heat - cool), and finally got it off.

Heater blower hoses from the heater body are crumbling. Is there a replacement for these?


Finally, removed the shift lever by removing the top plate on the transmission. When I did, I noticed the springs that were there - what are these for? And of course, as I was removing them, I dropped one down in the transmission body. I definitely have to crack it open now.

Still have to remove the front drive shaft and the few other lines and wires attached to it, and am ready to pull the whole thing out.

 

[Vae Victus]

And here is my progress on my original list of "TO DOs":

1. Brakes - review and fluids - (New MC, New Clutch Master, New Clutch slave, new brake lines ready to be made as needed, new booster for '84 4Runner, Ready For Install (RFI))
2. Fluids - coolant, trans, oil, diffs (all drained, need to flush engine block still, waiting to refill when I start reassembling stuff)
[STRIKE]3. Starter rebuild/replacement. What about the key (Done. Key lubed up and works fine)[/STRIKE]
4. Wiring check around starter - likely replace small leads that were on fire!
[STRIKE]5. Clean out the dirt and **** inside. Get a cover and cover it to keep any more rust from happening once I dry it out. (Done)[/STRIKE]
6. tires/wheels?
7. Side Mirrors - Must decide which type and purchase.
8. Blinkers replaced on front. Neither works. (Purchased, RFI)
9. Blinker relays - left side doesn't blink it just comes on and stays on - need to purchase relays I guess.
[STRIKE]10. Headlight replacements. Can I go LED? Will I need a larger alternator? One headlight is broken now, so at least 1 replacement. (Replaced both OEM)[/STRIKE]
11. Internal fan control troubleshooting. Feels like a baby deer blowing on me.
12. Heater doesn't heat.
13. Basically everything electrical is shot. Rework wiring as needed.
14. Wiper troubleshooting. They do not come on.
15. Choke - does it work?
u. Interior stuff - rear seats, seat belts up front and rear,
v. AC installed. This is Tennessee. It is ungodly hot about 75% of the year.
w. Get plates and title taken care of (once it runs)
x. Saginaw Power Steering
y. Rear Disk brakes
z. Body stuff - rust, painting, door hardware, window and hood hardware, new windows?, new rubber all around, getting the doors to close properly, etc.

New Projects taking precedent on above list:
- Transfer Case rebuild - RFI (Ready for Install)
- Transmission case refuild - need to purchase and install
- Clutch and RMS - need to purchase and install
- New Carb - purchased, ready for install (RFI)
- Rear seats purchased, RFI
- Used Carb Spacer sourced, RFI
- Used mechanical link and pedal sourced, RFI
- Used exhaust manifold sourced, RFI
- Front mesh, fan shroud, transfer skid plate all powder coated
- New fuel and vacuum lines - need to be sourced and installed
- New water pump (OEM) sourced, RFI
- New thermostat sourced, RFI
- New Radiator sourced, RFI
- New radiator hoses, RFI
- New fuel pump needs to be sourced and installed


Basically I'm going to buy everything new that deals with the engine, transmission, brakes, etc and make sure it will run properly. The engine stuff is in bad need of some proper parts and solid work rather than the slap stick job done by one of the POs.

Then, after it is running, I'll work on knuckle rebuilds, bushings, body mounts. Then I'll make a decision on paint and begin on body work (late summer/fall hopefully).

VV

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

11. Internal fan control troubleshooting. Feels like a baby deer blowing on me.

Hilarious lol

 

[Nottajeep]

Looking for a
Found a
Fixin' a '76 FJ40


off to the races... keep up the good work!

 

[Vae Victus]

Post-rainy-weekend update. Well, it is still raining. But had a break in the weather all day Sunday, so I took advantage.

I've been working for the past few days in my spare moments to get the transmission and transfer case out. I'm going to rebuild both, and do the clutch, RMS, and whatever else I can get to while the t&t are out.

I purchased a Torrin 1000 lb transmission jack to help with the job, having no desire to try and rig my floor jack to do the job. The unit is ok, except where it comes to the part that is different from any other jack - the top that holds the trxmission.

First, the instructions don't match the actual unit. It says you should attach the two chains to the chain bolts - well, there is only 1 chain, and the "chain bolts" don't even fit through the chain. The little fish hook screw that should hold the chain is only about 1/8" and since it is about 4" long, very flimsy. Secondly, the chain catch on the other side of the top plate - doesn't. If you get even 1/4" of slack in the chain, it drops out of the catch (which is just a slot cut in a bracket welded to the top). So, at 1am last night, in the sprinkle that was about to turn to downpour, with the trxmission 1/2 way out, I said to heck with it, and went to the barn to retrieve a strap.

Once I did that, I was able to extract the transmission (finally!), although not without banging the transmission shaft on the bottom of the bell housing to the clutch area, since I could not get the motor to tip down even after removing the back two motor mounts. (What did I do wrong/not do here? It would tip down about 1" after removing the rear motor mounts but no more. It needed about 3". I was supporting it with a floor jack underneath, and tried to lower it slowly, but it just stopped. Hmmm).

By the way, as a hint for anyone else doing this for the first time - make sure you remove the bolts that hold the motor mount plates to the motor. Don't remove the motor mount bolts that run through the rubber bumper - that still won't allow the motor to tip down. Wish I'd known that. One of those motor mount bolts is a real pain to get to, being inside the frame rail. At least now I can replace the motor mount bumpers more easily!

I had to remove the rear of the exhaust to get to the left rear motor mount. Good thing, as the exhaust broke off past the muffler when I was pulling the pipe out from under the car - it had rusted through and has seen better days.

I also had to remove the clutch slave to get to the right rear engine mount. Another good thing since I purchased a new one (probably didn't need that, but what the heck, replace it all).

Heater was pulled Friday to get at the transmission hump. Dumped out some 10 year old McDonalds french fries from the heater once I got it out. Those suckers were still white and recognizable. The preservatives in those things are nasty.

One thing I noticed, my stick shift was joined to the transmission by a plate at the top. In the FSM, for the 1975 JF40 that Trollhole has for us to download (thanks Trollhole!), on page 3-6 it shows in figure 3.6 using an SST to remove the shift lever. Mine looks different than the FSM. Since mine is a '76, and the FSM is a '75, is it just a model year change, or do I have a different trans?

I removed the 5 bolts on the plate and just popped off the shift lever and plate together. (Notice the one missing spring that fell INTO the trans. Terrific. )

Boy, what a pain in the butt to get the trans out. Separated the unit from the vehicle with a nudge from a pry bar. But, not enough clearance and as stated above, couldn't get the motor to dip down enough. Rear nose cone hits the cross member of the frame. But, muscled it out. Now, cannot get it out from under the rear-only lifted vehicle so will have to jack it from the side to extract it. Was sitting under the car in the pouring rain (had the cover on so somewhat protected) cursing trying to roll the thing out, knowing it would not fit, and knowing my window of time and weather finally shut (1:15am by that point). Oh well, tomorrow is another day.

Love to hear comments on how to tip the motor so when I put it back in, I can line it up with this crappy trans jack I bought.

Heck, with it this far torn down, should I pull the motor too? TCSTARKE I expect a comment from you here

VV

 

[Vae Victus]

Progress - got the transfer/transmission apart. Took a lot of pulling. Built a puller. groove in splines :-(

Detailed here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-case-puller-tool-what-am-i-missing-here.html

 

[Vae Victus]

Weekly Cost Update

Ok, here's the damage after 2 more weeks. Getting close to the valley floor of the initial "grand teardown" and have most of the parts for the phase 1 rebuild (code named "Get 'er Runnin'"). Next phase is to reinstall most of this stuff and make sure it runs well.

Then suspension, knuckles and wheels, THEN the body, weatherstripping, etc.

Started a weatherstripping thread to source all the weatherstripping that we can find that is non-OEM but a suitable replacement. Surely we can save some $$ on that (~ $1100 with shipping now, OEM).


Date Cost Running Total Item
3/15/2013 $4,000.00 $4,000.00 FJ40
3/25/2013 $526.00 $4,526.00 Truck Delivery
3/27/2013 $290.00 $4,816.00 TrollHole Carb
3/27/2013 $20.00 $4,836.00 iH8Mud Support
3/28/2013 $65.00 $4,901.00 Starter - Used
3/28/2013 $132.00 $5,033.00 AutoZone - New Fluids
3/29/2013 $169.15 $5,202.15 eBay - Throttle Linkage
3/30/2013 $22.75 $5,224.90 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller
3/30/2013 $175.00 $5,399.90 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832)
3/30/2013 $298.28 $5,698.18 Dash pad replacement from FJGoober
3/31/2013 $312.00 $6,010.18 DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit
4/3/2012 $159.00 $6,169.18 Battery, fluid pump
4/4/2013 $45.00 $6,214.18 Carb Spacer MUD rkymtnflyfisher
4/5/2013 $300.00 $6,514.18 2 Rear seats - 2thDoc/David
4/5/2013 $60.00 $6,574.18 Air Cleaner - RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan
4/6/2013 $203.17 $6,777.35 Advanced Auto - Clutch master, Clutch Slave, Brake Master
4/6/2013 $131.56 $6,908.91 NAPA - hoses, Air Filter, Fusable link, thermostat, fuel filter, belt
4/8/2013 $658.86 $7,567.77 CoolCruisers, Radiator, hoses, 2 front blinkers, 2 headlight globes, 2 door handles, steering rag joint
4/8/2013 $10.00 $7,577.77 Metric - screw set for 2 rear seats
4/7/2013 $103.93 $7,681.70 JDV Impact Screw Drivers - Megadora Impacta and Impact Driver Set 2400
4/10/2013 $228.70 $7,910.40 SOR order for various parts for eBrake, Throttle Pedal, Battery tray, carb gaskets, drain plug nuts and gaskets
4/15/2013 $113.00 $8,023.40 Matco Flare Tool
4/15/2013 $52.00 $8,075.40 Brake line and tools Amazon
4/13/2013 $32.00 $8,107.40 AeroKroil x2
4/10/2013 $22.00 $8,129.40 BG In-Force lubricant
4/16/2013 $62.00 $8,191.40 CruiserCorps - Radiator bushing, accelerator bushing, cooling/heater union pipe
4/13/2013 $35.00 $8,226.40 Accelerator Pedal - Mark Woytovich, mudder
4/17/2013 $192.00 $8,418.40 Powder coat fan shroud, skid plate, mesh grille, radiator housing
4/17/2013 $57.00 $8,475.40 Door bushings cruiserbits@gmail.com
4/18/2013 $68.00 $8,543.40 Exhaust Manifold, flange & ship - HuminaJumina mudder
4/18/2013 $5.00 $8,548.40 Shipping for some free bushings from FishTaco mudder.
4/18/2013 $43.00 $8,591.40 FedHill.com brake fittings
4/18/2013 $145.00 $8,736.40 Water pump, CDan
4/23/2013 $201.00 $8,937.40 TPI LandCruisers for Transfer Case Rebuild kit, 2 pinion seals
4/24/2013 $440.00 $9,377.40 Amazon for jack, jack stands, transmission jack
4/25/2013 $142.00 $9,519.40 Brake Booster #53-280, Advanced Auto
5/4/2013 $582.49 $10,101.89 TPI Landcruisers, clutch kit, transmission kit, etc
5/4/2013 $490.72 $10,592.61 SOR.com, Door panels, emblems, voltage regulator, flasher module, bunch of little junk

 

[Chamba]

I take exception to adding cost of tools to the build. While used for this truck, you will have them for other projects and they should at least be amortised over the several projects (if not wholly separate as an 'investment in manhood' expense).

I'm just saying.

 

[Vae Victus]

I take exception to adding cost of tools to the build. While used for this truck, you will have them for other projects and they should at least be amortised over the several projects (if not wholly separate as an 'investment in manhood' expense).

I'm just saying.

I guess you are right from a purist standpoint, but I did not add the used Miller s22 MIG unit I picked up today - just the fairly dedicated tools that I bought because of this truck.

 

[Vae Victus]

Tearing down transfer case tonite, stuck here:



How do I press this first shaft out without a press and the SST that goes between the gears?

EDIT: Answered by asking the question in another thread: with a 2x4 stuck into the gears to support it.

Here is the 2x4 method to remove the output shaft.

 

[Vae Victus]

Slow progress this week, but steady. Worked through the teardown of the Transfer case, slowly making sure what I was doing. Created a few jigs for removing bearings and shafts, and pried, cut and mutilated a couple of pieces (needle bearing in the main shaft especially).


Removing bearing from main shaft


Needle bearing from main shaft. Note the small cuts I made every few millimeters so that I could hammer a screwdriver between the two surfaces and get some separation. This way it came away from the sides and I could just pull it out. This is after I dremmelled out the needle bearing race which was very thin.


Had to just pry this seal out - it was pretty tough to get it out. Ended up using an 18" long punch to pry it.

 

[Vae Victus]

Once I got everything out, I started soaking stuff in gasoline to remove the grease and buildup. I'm not making it all perfect, just getting it good and clean.

Gas is a good cleaner for grease, but it is really hard to get the smell off afterwards even after washing with Dawn dish soap and then hitting it with a shot of brake cleaner to get all the water off and the last of the gas smell.

Did that for all the gears and the transfer case too. Coated the gears and any steel parts with some penetrating oil so it would not rust after washing it.



Somewhat clean case after soaking in gas and scrubbing, washing with soap and water.


The first new piece put back in - the clean idler gears, new shaft, new washers.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

A $100 HF press would save you much time and anguish.

 

[Vae Victus]

A $100 HF press would save you much time and anguish.

Yea, I know. I am simply out of room at the moment. Someday when I get my own shop space built.

 

[Vae Victus]

Weekly cost update. Purchases have finally slowed down at this point. I'm waiting on the transmission rebuild kit from TPI to come in, and purchased a few small items this week - finishing items like grommets and small rubber bits. Also the heater valve should be replaced just to make it brand new and guarantee it functions with ease. The old one will be cleaned up, lubricated and sold.

Finally found at least 3, and hopefully 5 FJ40 steel wheels. Thanks jcbutcher.

Also found a flexible hose and nozzle for the Air Cleaner, thanks 76FJ40 and BTUMan for those!

From Previous week:

Last total: $10,592.61

5/17/2013 $154.00 $10,746.61 CruiserCorps, rear main seal, heater valve, grommets, exhaust gasket
5/19/2013 $28.00 $10,774.61 Air intake hose - from iH8Mudder - BTUMAN
5/20/2013 $23.00 $10,797.61 Air intake nozzle - from iH8Mudder - "76 fj40"
5/21/2013 $232.50 $11,030.11 3 FJ40 Steel Wheels

 

[Vae Victus]

So how much does the motor tip down when you remove the rear engine mounts? When I removed the transmission, it didn't move much, maybe 2-3 inches. Felt like it needed more. Should I have loosened the front mounts a little bit to allow it to move more?

 

[Vae Victus]

Slow going on the transfer case. Little roadblocks to overcome here and there. Ordered and received AA shims for the high and low speed gears shaft from OrangeFJ45 - my spacing was too loose and the gears were able to move too much. Thanks Georg! From CA to TN in 2 days for $5. Amazing USPS.

Wire wheeled and painted a few small parts while I waited on spacers. Nothing interesting, but progress is evident and I'm pleased.


Advanced Adapters spacers on the left, OEM on the right. Note the chamfer allowing the AA adapter to sit lower on the lip of the shaft, bringing gear in tighter.


Spacing back within spec - maybe a liiiittttlllleee too tight, but it should loosen up, right?

Oh yea, gotta pick up 2 x 3/8" o-rings not in tcase rebuild kit. Grrrr.

 

[2thdoc]

Oh yea, gotta pick up 2 x 3/8" o-rings not in tcase rebuild kit. Grrrr.

A speedo drive rebuild kit will have what you're looking for. There is a little o-ring inside as well that comes in the kit. The part # escapes me right now, but it is available thru Toyota.

 

[Phares]

Still following this thread with extreme interest. The trans/transfer case rebuild is moving up on my priority list...

 

[FishTacos]

x2 on what Phares said. Also thinking about getting a 4speed to replace my 3 speed. You are making great progress VV. Good Luck.