- Thread starter
- #301
Thanks Sarge. I have similar brushes. Are the ones you noted better than the Milwaukee and Dewalt brands?
Question, is there an appreciable difference in a 4" and a 4.5" grinder?
Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together
- Thread starter Vae Victus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks Sarge. I have similar brushes. Are the ones you noted better than the Milwaukee and Dewalt brands?
Question, is there an appreciable difference in a 4" and a 4.5" grinder?
A 4" grinder will allow you to get into tighter spots is about all , for the most part I've found them lacking in cutoff and overall welding work due to the lower effective rpm at the tip of the wheels . The general trend now is 5-6" grinders due to being able to cut thicker and more effective work in the field . If ever in the market for a new one (how's that DeWalt sounding ?) check out the Metabo line of grinders . Best built guard in the industry - easily clocked to any position to allow more operations with no tools , no-kidding brutally tough motors and a spindle lock actually designed to use motor inertia to knock the wheel loose . I can change wheels in 5 seconds with my 115 series model . Be careful about any brand showing cheaper versions under $100 - they do not last long at all .
I recently bought one of the newer 6amp Bosch units with the much smaller diameter motor design - got it off Amazon for $60 shipped - pretty cheap . Bad part - made in China and has by far the stupidest designed guard setup I've ever seen . Even called their tech service line and chewed 'em out over that . I've used Bosch cordless/corded tools for years since we use them on the job a lot and they never fail . I love the smaller diameter motor housing since my hands are getting pretty bad from arthritis - but that guard keeps that thing on the bench most of the time since I hate it so much .
I'll try to get a pic of that dually stringer brush , it's amazing how fast it will clean up the heaviest of slag or paint .
Sarge
I recently bought one of the newer 6amp Bosch units with the much smaller diameter motor design - got it off Amazon for $60 shipped - pretty cheap . Bad part - made in China and has by far the stupidest designed guard setup I've ever seen . Even called their tech service line and chewed 'em out over that . I've used Bosch cordless/corded tools for years since we use them on the job a lot and they never fail . I love the smaller diameter motor housing since my hands are getting pretty bad from arthritis - but that guard keeps that thing on the bench most of the time since I hate it so much .
I'll try to get a pic of that dually stringer brush , it's amazing how fast it will clean up the heaviest of slag or paint .
Sarge
Uh........ Laverne & Shirley...... and I don't think Memphis can handle a good ribbing. That pyramid might collapse.
Old country is fantastic! Johnny, Patsy Cline, Hank, Bill Monroe.....Awesome stuff. It is a shame what the Oprey did with Hank Sr. His grandson sure is peeved about them employing an impersonator and giving no credit after kicking him out so many years back. But back to tech (for which I'm chastised most often anyway):
Here is the blast gun pic I promised. These little guys are good for getting rust and paint out of the tight spots that defy the wire wheels and brushes. They kinda force you to conserve your media, which is nice, and they are cheap too. I think I spent $10 bucks on this thing IIRC. Maybe I will start building a cabinet today. It is rainy and muggy here in NJ and I have frame painting on the agenda that will have to wait for better weather.
- Thread starter
- #304
Laverne and Shirley - wow, that takes me back.
Checking out those blast guns now. Never seen one prior to that photo.
Checking out those blast guns now. Never seen one prior to that photo.
- Thread starter
- #305
Metabo - I'll check it out. The Dewalt is new, but that gray piece of crap needs to go. Cheapo.
Good point on the guards. You don't want to take them off! (Don't ask me how I know).
Amen , I've several fingers that have "notched bones" after years of using other's grinders with no guard . Once you get used to something....lol .
Can't remember where , maybe Eastwood ? Someone makes one of those hand blasters with an attachment that catches the media , looks like for only flat panel work but who knows ?
Sarge
Can't remember where , maybe Eastwood ? Someone makes one of those hand blasters with an attachment that catches the media , looks like for only flat panel work but who knows ?
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #307
So I did a quick test for "all y'all" to see the diff in the cupped wheels and the twisted wire flat wheels. I don't have a twisted wire cup (that fits - accidentally got a Dewalt brush with the metric nut), so I'm sure the twisted cup would cut faster.
I did a 5 second stripe on a work piece with both the horizontal angle and the vertical angle.
Cup cuts are on the left, wheel right.
Left cut on each pair is horizontal (ie cup wires pointing toward the work). Small cut on the right is at a vertical (90 degree to the work surface) angle. With the cup, it's not quite a 90 degree angle, something like 60 degrees.
The cup is my preferred wheel right now. It works faster on large surfaces, and is more forgiving when you catch an edge. It won't cut really rusty stuff if you hold it flat, but turn it at an angle and it cuts very well. If it was just paint, holding it flat would work very fast. The wheel cuts deeper and faster at an angle, but it cuts a smaller path and takes longer to cover the work piece.
If someone has a twisted cup, compare it to the other types. Show some sample cuts if you can.
I did a 5 second stripe on a work piece with both the horizontal angle and the vertical angle.
Cup cuts are on the left, wheel right.
Left cut on each pair is horizontal (ie cup wires pointing toward the work). Small cut on the right is at a vertical (90 degree to the work surface) angle. With the cup, it's not quite a 90 degree angle, something like 60 degrees.
The cup is my preferred wheel right now. It works faster on large surfaces, and is more forgiving when you catch an edge. It won't cut really rusty stuff if you hold it flat, but turn it at an angle and it cuts very well. If it was just paint, holding it flat would work very fast. The wheel cuts deeper and faster at an angle, but it cuts a smaller path and takes longer to cover the work piece.
If someone has a twisted cup, compare it to the other types. Show some sample cuts if you can.
- Thread starter
- #308
Tonight -back to basics. Finish the dang t-case!
Cleaned off the table, changed my papers
Polished the mating surfaces.
Last night bach-ing it and my mother calls! "I'm coming over." Oh hell.
Cleaned off the table, changed my papers
Polished the mating surfaces. Last night bach-ing it and my mother calls! "I'm coming over." Oh hell.
- Thread starter
- #309
Oh, and a little something I built to boost the HP a bit.
- Thread starter
- #310
Looks square to me.
Agreed, those make quick work of stripping years of built up crap
Sent using my Star Trek communicator thingy
- Thread starter
- #312
Last few days didn't show a lot of progress, but I find I'm enjoying the slow methodical build. I'm wire wheeling every bolt and part inside the tcase to get all the grime and rust off. Heck, I'm just having fun getting it really clean and putting back together right. T-case is close. Got the shift knob and housing cleaned up and reattached, now just need to do the e-brake assy cleanup & rebuild, and do the seal on the output shaft, and determine proper pre-load on the bearings.
Before cleaning.
Transmission Seal - it goes on "backwards"
Note the flat connector piece that attaches to the shifter shaft coming out of the case - it is bent (or it it supposed to be that shape?).
Close up
Being this close to having the engine out makes me want to go ahead and do the engine! I know nothing about taking it apart, but after seeing Monke South, (Chad Wells) taking one apart in New Guinea (https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/717828-what-dimond-very-ruff-4.html), I figure I can do it too.
Need advice on a minimal tear down and check of engine internals? Minimal being, going in with intent to see if it is all in good shape, fixing what's not, cleaning inside and outside of engine, replacing seals, bearings, gaskets.
Before cleaning.
Transmission Seal - it goes on "backwards"
Note the flat connector piece that attaches to the shifter shaft coming out of the case - it is bent (or it it supposed to be that shape?).
Close up
Being this close to having the engine out makes me want to go ahead and do the engine! I know nothing about taking it apart, but after seeing Monke South, (Chad Wells) taking one apart in New Guinea (https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/717828-what-dimond-very-ruff-4.html), I figure I can do it too.
Need advice on a minimal tear down and check of engine internals? Minimal being, going in with intent to see if it is all in good shape, fixing what's not, cleaning inside and outside of engine, replacing seals, bearings, gaskets.
Last edited:
Looking good. I just picked up my t-case kit from Bob Friday. So, hopefully I can get it de-crudded and looking as good as yours.
Kevin
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #314
Very good. I should have worked a bit more on the case. I may do a bit more once I get it finished and can cover up the holes. Not essential but my OCD kicks in....
Does your kit have 2 rubber and one metal lipped seal, or 2 metal and one rubber?
I haven't looked through it closely yet. And, I'm out of town this week.
Here's the dually stringer brush - narrow and gnarly ....
Use these with only light pressure as they will eat into metal easily . Once it stops cutting efficiently , just flip it over and keep going . Just watch out for clothing or anything they can catch - some grinders just don't know when to stop .
Gloves are a must , too .
Sarge
Use these with only light pressure as they will eat into metal easily . Once it stops cutting efficiently , just flip it over and keep going . Just watch out for clothing or anything they can catch - some grinders just don't know when to stop .
Gloves are a must , too .
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #317
- Thread starter
- #318
Well, I bought one anyway. Got the 6" version of the Weiler Dually disk that Sarge wrote about, a Weiler Knotted Cup, and a Norzon grinding/cutting disk. We will see. Got it from Zoro tools. Priced fairly. Free shipping over $50. Cheaper than the same brand one I could find on Amazon, and much cheaper than Fastenal.
Bought the 6" Metabo WEPBA14-150 Grinder on Amazon. After Sarge's recommendation and realizing that a bigger badder grinder would speed things up on this metal grinding journey, I pulled the trigger.
Order Summary:
Zoro Item
Product Name Description Unit Price Qty. Amount
G1046044 Grinding and Cutting Wheels Norzon Plus Depressed Ctr Whl,T27,5x1/4x5/8-11,CA/ZA $11.64 1 $11.64
G2556373 Weiler Grinder Wire Brushes Knot Cup Brushes Knot Cup Brush,3 1/2 In Dia,0.0230 Wire $21.80 1 $21.80
G3737124 Weiler Filler Pass Brush Filler Pass Brush,6 In,.020 $19.99 1 $19.99
Tax 0.00
Total $53.43
Grinder:
Via Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ATG27W/..._26725410_item
Last edited:
Ok, I looked through my kit this morning and I have 2 rubber seals and 1 metal. However, I bought a 3 speed rebuild kit.
Your bodywork assistant seems to be alittle more experienced than mine.... my assistants make more work for me
had them sidewalk chaulk my oem canvas door awhile back ... he said he was "fixing it" ... what is the age requirement for sidewalk chalk use? he's 4
Great build thread
