1kzte A/T cooler

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Joined
Apr 22, 2015
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In the states right now, but I have a kzj78 with the 1kzte in Uganda and am bringing back an a/t cooler to fit. I was wondering, which way does the fluid flow into and out of the radiator? What does your setup look like? Have you seen a difference in how this mod takes some stress off the cooling system? I won't be towing anything. Just trying to keep the head from cracking. Thanks for your input.

Jeff
 
Hi

For a cooler engine I have put a transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I have bypassed the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. I have installed a Transmission temp guage to monitor the trans.

Trying not to do a head in a 1KZ is a whole different story. The list of thing to starts with
Block EGR.
install water temp guage
install EGT temp guage.
check and fill Viscous coupling.
Thermostat. Replacement or lower opening temp version....

Search as this has been covered on here or in Australia or NZ forums.
 
In a cold climate it is important to still have auto trans fluid flow through the radiator cooler as well. This will help bring the ATF up to proper operating temperature.

I've installed an ATF cooler in my Prado LJ78. I have it plumbed in before the radiator cooler. So fluid flows from the transmission through the new cooler, then through the radiator cooler, and then back to the transmission. I abuse my LJ78 with heavy towing, and never have transmission problems, so I think this works well.

To figure out which hose is which, simply disconnect one from the radiator and put it into a bucket. Attach a piece of hose to the radiator as well and put it into a bucket. Start the motor just for a few seconds and watch which hose the ATF comes out of. Then you will know the fluid flow direction.
 
Thanks for the replies. Cantakiwi, I appreciate the heads up. I've done everything on the list except the egt gauge. I keep my foot out of it for the most part and never run it hard. Do you think I still should install one?

GTSSportCoupe, I'll probably do just as you described, unless someone helps me be lazy and can tell me which side is which. Should I try to fit it between the radiator and a/c condenser if there's room?
 
I installed the cooler between the radiator and ac condenser following the advice of GTSSportCoupe. It's plumbed the same way too, pre radiator, which makes sense in view of the my main goal of reducing stress on the cooling system.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but before installing the atf cooler, on long trips the transmission would radiate heat throughout the cabin, making floor in the front quite warm. This bacame pretty uncomfortable since I haven't fixed the ac yet. Anyways, that problem is completely gone now. A much cooler in cabin temp is a greatly appreciated bonus when driving around here. I'd say the installation is worth it even just for that.

Thanks again,

Jeff
 
Jeff, where do you live? I'm in Jinja. I've got a garage here and I do a lot of modifications for 4x4s. I've got a container on the way from the US with a completely new Toytec suspension, UCAs, 285 BFGs, etc.

Anytime you want to get together and wrench on something give me a shout. 0779970021


Sent from my iPhone
 
Hey, glad to hear from you. I'm living in Mbale. I was just in Bugembe last week. I read your build thread a while ago. I came across it searching for suspension options in Uganda. Nice work. I eventually went with a 2" Ironman lift and 32" Kumho AT's. Still kicking myself for not getting 33" MT's. Oh well, at least they were cheaper, about 550,000 ugx.
I'd love an 80 series. It's hard buying a car local and getting it into shape. Are you still driving it?
I'm thinking about building a front bumper soon and maybe paint, although the kids here just use it like a chalkboard. Priority now is AC with the dry season starting. Did you ever get your AC working?

Jeff
0793 346 601
 
I sold the 80 a while back for a nice profit. Bought an 05 Hilux, which I'm now trying to sell, but I'll lose money on it. The wife and I are going down to a single car and I'll dump our whole transportation budget into it. I've got a decent amount of plans for it and once the truck sells, the funding to finish them.


Sent from my iPhone
 
I installed the cooler between the radiator and ac condenser following the advice of GTSSportCoupe. It's plumbed the same way too, pre radiator, which makes sense in view of the my main goal of reducing stress on the cooling system.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but before installing the atf cooler, on long trips the transmission would radiate heat throughout the cabin, making floor in the front quite warm. This bacame pretty uncomfortable since I haven't fixed the ac yet. Anyways, that problem is completely gone now. A much cooler in cabin temp is a greatly appreciated bonus when driving around here. I'd say the installation is worth it even just for that.

Thanks again,

Jeff

Hi Jeff,
I am a wee bit further south in Africa (Namibia) and am carrying out similar mods. Could you please give an update on your transmission cooler and if possible, some photos of your installation? Model number of cooler etc... would also be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Bruce.
 
Bruce,

I wish I was more organized. I didn't take any pictures but it's pretty straightforward. I can't remember the brand but it was just a mid-sized cooler with a tube and fin design. Because the radiator fins run vertically, I installed it running horizontally on the radiator between the radiator and a/c condenser. It's plumbed inline before entering the radiator. For me, this is what makes the most sense for what we're going for.

It's okay if anyone wants to correct me, but these things are simple an anything generic will suffice. Either plate or tube design. But really, almost anything you put there will accomplish what you want to do.

As for an update, results are as originally posted. The floor is much cooler, base of shifter no longer gets hot, so I have to assume the tranny is happy too. I'm glad I did the mod and don't expect ever to have any problems with it. You'll be happy too, and to have that heat off the floor boards is a bonus you'll appreciate in Namibia.
 
Hi Jeff,
Many thanks for your response. I'll speak to my local supplier about getting a cooler which will fit - it shouldn't be a problem.

Did you also block off your EGR? If so, can you give an outline on what you did and whether you had to do anything with any sensors?
 
For the egr you have a lot of options, ranging from simple disconnection to complete removal. I did 3 things. Nothing I did involves adjusting or removing a sensor.

1- I disconnected and blocked the hoses attached to "ufo" as many describe it. In theory, this is sufficient to disable the egr system.

2- Block the pipe using a plate, throttle side. This is important because some feel that exhaust pressure can force the egr system to keep cycling gases after disconnection. After removing the nuts of the egr pipe on the exhaust side and the throttle body side, I was able to remove the gasket connecting the pipe to the throttle body. That was used as a template for the blocking plate. The blocking plate was cut out of an aluminum sauce pan. Google egr block plates to get an idea of what shape you are going for. RTV both sides, slide it into place, tighten nuts back up, finished.

3- Remove the butterfly from the throttle body. This is apparently important in order to keep temperatures down. Removing the big aluminum pipe coming from the turbo to the throttle body exposes 2 plates which make a butterfly. I only removed the big plate. You can completely remove the throttle body or do it while still attached. I left it there and put some rags under the butterfly to catch the shavings. I had to completely drill out 1 of the screws holding the plate to the shaft. The other backed out after drilling the head off. Don't touch the TPS, it's important.

For results, I've noticed no difference shutting down the engine. Black exhaust smoke, although never an issue before, is not there at all unless the pedal to the floor. Even then, it's minimal. The truck feels cleaner and sounds a bit more raw.
 
For the egr you have a lot of options, ranging from simple disconnection to complete removal. I did 3 things. Nothing I did involves adjusting or removing a sensor.

1- I disconnected and blocked the hoses attached to "ufo" as many describe it. In theory, this is sufficient to disable the egr system.

2- Block the pipe using a plate, throttle side. This is important because some feel that exhaust pressure can force the egr system to keep cycling gases after disconnection. After removing the nuts of the egr pipe on the exhaust side and the throttle body side, I was able to remove the gasket connecting the pipe to the throttle body. That was used as a template for the blocking plate. The blocking plate was cut out of an aluminum sauce pan. Google egr block plates to get an idea of what shape you are going for. RTV both sides, slide it into place, tighten nuts back up, finished.

3- Remove the butterfly from the throttle body. This is apparently important in order to keep temperatures down. Removing the big aluminum pipe coming from the turbo to the throttle body exposes 2 plates which make a butterfly. I only removed the big plate. You can completely remove the throttle body or do it while still attached. I left it there and put some rags under the butterfly to catch the shavings. I had to completely drill out 1 of the screws holding the plate to the shaft. The other backed out after drilling the head off. Don't touch the TPS, it's important.

For results, I've noticed no difference shutting down the engine. Black exhaust smoke, although never an issue before, is not there at all unless the pedal to the floor. Even then, it's minimal. The truck feels cleaner and sounds a bit more raw.

Excellent!

Thanks very much for the detailed response. I'll print it and pass it on to the mechanic who'll be doing it all as it's a bit too much for me.
Do you have any empirical data regarding engine temperature? I have just fitted an Engine Guardian Temperature Gauge as well as an OBD1READ bluetooth device and the temperatures are terrifying!
 
With the engine temperature, you're well beyond my setup. I have a simple water temperature gauge, so I can't help you there. Maybe I need to add an egt. I don't tow or push the car to its limits so I'm not too worried.

Best wishes. Be careful taking advice from me. I may not be as much of an enthusiast as I am a survivalist. I enjoy my Land Cruiser and try hard to provide a reasonably high level of maintenance out of fear of getting stranded somewhere, but I don't worship it.
 
Hi Jeff,
When you refer to the 'large butterfly', are you referring to the 'throttle valve' as per the images below?

Throttle Body.webp

Throttle.webp
 
Thanks Jeff! It's with Auto Repairs Etzold in Windhoek now who know their stuff - I just like to know what's going on and try to understand the inner workings.
 
Excellent!

Thanks very much for the detailed response. I'll print it and pass it on to the mechanic who'll be doing it all as it's a bit too much for me.
Do you have any empirical data regarding engine temperature? I have just fitted an Engine Guardian Temperature Gauge as well as an OBD1READ bluetooth device and the temperatures are terrifying!

Bruce,
I'm intrigued by the Bluetooth OBD-1 device you mention. Can you share the manufacturer and model? What vehicle do you have it hooked up to?

I have an aftermarket EGT and boost sensor hooked up to an Arduino which communicates via Bluetooth to an Android head unit.

I would like to get some water & oil temps, engine rpm, etc. If I could get some data from the OBD port that would be really helpful.

...I've recently moved to Uganda. Unfortunately Jeff, who was here, has moved.
 
I installed the cooler between the radiator and ac condenser following the advice of GTSSportCoupe. It's plumbed the same way too, pre radiator, which makes sense in view of the my main goal of reducing stress on the cooling system.

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but before installing the atf cooler, on long trips the transmission would radiate heat throughout the cabin, making floor in the front quite warm. This bacame pretty uncomfortable since I haven't fixed the ac yet. Anyways, that problem is completely gone now. A much cooler in cabin temp is a greatly appreciated bonus when driving around here. I'd say the installation is worth it even just for that.

Thanks again,

Jeff
Hey, Jeff - what did you end up finding out on which line out of the transmission is the out-bound fluid (hot), and which one is the return line? Doing this install hopefully just this coming Monday evening and want to get all my ducks in a row to make it a smooth process.
 

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