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Hey guys, I need some advice here.
I'm in the middle of swapping out my knackered 2000 Prado 1kz-te engine for a mostly complete 1996 Toyota Surf 1KZ-TE engine I purchased recently. I'm trying to do as much of the easy work as possible before the mechanic comes in next week to remove the old block and install the new engine. Unfortunately i'm running into a few unexpected challenges. Mainly a few things with the new engine are different to mine.
- The new throttle body while my Prado is fly-by-wire. Therefore the inlet manifolds are different also - I have swapped Inlet manifold and throttle body over from my old engine so fixed that problem however this created a new problem:
- The exhaust manifold on the new engine has a metal tube coming out of the back of it, running along the firewall back into the inlet manifold. I'm pretty sure this is the EGR pipe. The inlet manifold which I've swapped in doent have anywhere for the egr pipe to bolt into. Well... where it should bolt into, it has a welsh plug in the hole and no bolts/bolt holes either side so doesnt look like it was ever used? So whats the best solution for plugging up the hole left in the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking of knocking up a bit of 3mm plate to block it off but maybe drill and weld an EGT probe bung into the plate. This will save me having to remove the exhaust manifold to install an EGT probe. Bad idea? Any better ideas?
- Finally the biggest issue is the mismatched fuel injector pump. The older 1996 Toyota Surf pump is the one with the timing and fueling resistors on the side and a bunch of unknown plugs wheres my newer 2000 Prado pump (which my wiring harness caters for) doesnt have those and but has the the white, grey and spill control valve plugs on the top. Do I have to swap the pumps out as well or is there a way to manage this?
Thanks in advance for any help or ideas!
Well after some deep digging and heavy reading through some Denso Injector Pump service manuals late last night, I've just learned a whole heap about these pumps and answered my own question and more! So I will be swapping out the pumps today. I highly recommend everyone with a Denso injector pump download and have a read through the related PDFs on this website. Theres so much interesting content described in them beyond the scope of just the pump itself. Talks a lot about where performance comes from in Diesel engines etc and how to get your injector pump running at it's optimum etc.
You have to have each manual emailed to you so you have to hand over your email address which is annoying but I went through the process and it was very striaght forward and I didn't wake up with an inbox full of spam haha. I even donated a couple of bucks to support the website. The guy seems legit
So i've finally completed the engine swap over and it was a lot more work than I had anticipated! Key notes to take away for anyone interested or thinking about this procedure:
- Check for and fix potential leaks on the replacement engine while its out of the car! Especially things like the turbo oil return pipe because its a PITA to get to if the engines installed. The turbo return pipes are a common cause of oil leak due to their construction (the aluminium cracks from engine vibrations).
- Be prepared for the mess! Lots of rags! Containers for draining/collecting fluids. Go to your local garden centre and pickup a couple of bags of saw dust. Flattened cardboard boxes for putting oilt parts on or tubs if you wanna spend the extra money. Think about where you're going to put the old engine. It's fking heavy and not easy to move around so don't just dump it on the floor. Use a pellet or better still an engine stand if you plan to rebuild it.
- Be sure to label all the different harness connectors but especially the large earth cables that attach to the engine. One just below the main battery on the drivers side and another on back corner near the starter motor.
- Check the sump shape on the new engine matches the old sump otherwise it will not fit around your front axle! You can swap them over as well as the oil pickup in side will need to be swapped over too. Their are grub screws in the sump that need to be swapped around into the holes provided by Toyota to allow the different oil pickup to attach.
- The rocker cover on intercooled 1kz's is different on the non intercooled 1 kz's. The raised part is in the centre instead of at the back of the engine. So if you're swapping your intercooler onto a traditionally non intercooled 1kz, you will need to come up with a solution to extend the height of the intercooler or swap rocker covers. I'll end up doing both as I want to fit a fan under my intercooler.
- You'll need to swap the oil pressure sender over as they are a calibrated unit and not doing so will send the wrong values to your ECU and resulting in a oil warning light on the dash.
- If your exhaust manifold supports EGR but your intake manifold doesn't, you can block off the EGR hole in the exhaust manifold with no problems. I made up my own blanking plate and drilled/welded a EGT temp probe bung into it so now I can measure me EGTs at the manifold without drilling into the manifold. Works brilliantly!
- Standard 250kg engine hoist barely was able to reach with my alloy bullbar and 2" lift so had to use a block and tackle at the rear of the engine and hoist at the front. This was beneficial as to get the engine in, you need to drop it down on a fairly steep angle to feed it into the transmission first. We also had to jack up the auto trans to help with fitment. Space is very tight between the front axle/sump/slotting into the transmission.
- Next time, I would try installing the engine with the turbo dump pipe installed next time as there is a nut on the turbo outlet side in between the turbo and the engine that is near impossible to get at once the engine is in place. If you're in a position where you have to install the dump pipe with the engine/Turbo in place, the trick I found is to use a 1/2" socket set with a bunch of expension bars and a knuckle attachment at the socket end. Feed the extenstion up from the drivers side of the dump pipe, overtop of the dump pipe the the back of the Turbo outlet where the bastard nut is then the knuckle kinks around the corner. It's very tight for space but you can just get it onto the nut to do up. On this note, go to your local auto parts store and pickup a set of new brass nuts. The original ones are an aweful design and you will round them off at some stage, especially the rear one.
I think this has about covered it. I'll add anything else later if I think of it....
