1FZ engine building and blueprinting (1 Viewer)

[sbman]

This is a great thread. That's a lot of time and dedication! My standard rebuild where I only measured the things required for rebuild took me months. I'm very interested in what an otherwise stock engine with an more aggressive set of cams could do.

 

[hazard]

Maybe for mechanical fuel pump on carbureted version for 3rd world counties?

That's what I was guessing. Someone must know. Just curious.

 

[scottryana]

Aftermarket weights include rod bolts and bushings but not wrist pins. Simply because most manufactures see wrist pins as a separate entity. Depending on what your goals are, if you are NA you will want lightweight wrist pins, if you are doing big nitrous or high boost you will want boat anchor pins.

Do you know when they quote rod and piston weights, like your CP, if they are including rod bolts and small end bush, and piston pins?

 

[hazard]

Crankshaft time.
Lots of measurements. Crank is awesome in many ways, lacking in two (discuss later). main bearings are perfect, like new. See pic and all were identical, both cap and bottom. Any scratches are just from me.
Very good reason for this:
Crank was dead straight, I mounted in block on front and rear bearing only as I don't have any V blocks. I tried and tried but I could not get even 1/10,000 of runout on any journal. Exceptional.
Then I measured crank main journals with a micrometer, each one measured on 4 axis, I won't post total results as each one came out identical at 68.97 mm. Also exceptional and is why bearings were perfect. However a crank marked #2 should be a journal of 68.988-68.994 so I must be doing something wrong, micing too tight?
I also bore gauged all the journal holes but I have to recheck as the oil clearance is not making sense. Will calibrate my mic and bore gauge and check again.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah those bearings look basically brand new!

How accurate is your mic? When you are talking about 0.018mm that is 7/10,000 of an inch. I know some of the Starrett only go to 0.001"

 

[inkpot]

Very interesting, I have never seen a cam with such short durations ever. Makes me wonder why in the world Toyota would have done that, I guess in an attempt to maximize low end torque and idle.

It really makes aftermarket cams look greedy with 238+ degrees of separation and 10+mm of lift. You should be able to get a lot more air and fuel in this engine with a different cam.

Looking forward to your rod and piston weights when you pull the stockers.

How much increase in duration and lift would you recommend for a better performing N/A trick??
How about a S/C rig? Inquiring minds want to know!!

 

[ThomasMore66]

So why haven't more people massaged these things for more power? I've been contemplating an LS swap, but I'd like to stay Toyota. I'm super intrigued by this tread.

I had read somewhere else that the valves were a bit shrouded and that cleaning that up made a nice difference. Combine with cams and I'd hope this thing could run better. More HP would be so nice.

 

[sbman]

I looked at cams that would give more power and they wanted something like $2500 for a set of cams. It gets expensive really quickly.

 

[scottryana]

That must have been quite a while ago. They are about $1000 now.

I looked at cams that would give more power and they wanted something like $2500 for a set of cams. It gets expensive really quickly.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Who builds cams?

 

[scottryana]

Kelford
Camtech
Schneider
Brian Crower
probably a couple others.

Who builds cams?

 

[hazard]

How much increase in duration and lift would you recommend for a better performing N/A trick??
How about a S/C rig? Inquiring minds want to know!!

I am not a cam timing expert, yet, but I would take the recommendations from one of the manufacturers that Scott listed here, as they all make at least three or four different grinds for this engine, both NA and turbo.

 

[hazard]

I am off to Baja to visit my 80 so no more info for a while. I have done some more work that I will post when back. I started cc ing a few volumes and have done the intake and exhaust ports, combustion chamber, which I think was 74cc, and piston dish.
I have also measured all bores 4 ways at four depths, definitely a fair bit of taper and out of round.
Then, as I don't have a torque plate, yet, I decided to torque the head back on, in lieu of a plate and measure the bores again. Definitely different measurements, I will post and detail later.
The coolest thing was being able to look down the bores from the bottom, the cylinder wall actually shrouds the combustion chamber a fair bit on the left rear of each cylinder. Upper right in pictures next post.
Back with more in a few weeks.
If anyone needs anything specific just ask. I work for beers and cheers.

 

[hazard]

 

[hazard]

Also the head gasket looks very strange, not round at all, and rear cyl has a rather large bump in it. Never seen anything like this!
Any ideas. Perhaps head gasket was changed, I couldn't find any markings to tell what this one was.
Perhaps someone did a really poor torque up job???
Anyone seen the likes of this?

 

[hazard]

Yeah those bearings look basically brand new!

How accurate is your mic? When you are talking about 0.018mm that is 7/10,000 of an inch. I know some of the Starrett only go to 0.001"

That is part of the issue as it's in mm and only to 0.01mm, I have gage blocks and checked, it's very accurate.
I'm going to buy a set of imperial mics to 0.0001 and do it all over. I'll post when done.
Also just figured out about the Toyota block, crank, and bearing numbering system. Forgot about that.

 

[hazard]

So why haven't more people massaged these things for more power? I've been contemplating an LS swap, but I'd like to stay Toyota. I'm super intrigued by this tread.

I had read somewhere else that the valves were a bit shrouded and that cleaning that up made a nice difference. Combine with cams and I'd hope this thing could run better. More HP would be so nice.

I believe we can make some great power here throughout the range. However, an engine swap might be cheaper as parts such as cams etc are very expensive. Also probably very hard to get the good mileage of a true modern engin.

 

[scottryana]

So all of the cylinders except that rear cylinder are normal, they all have that weird shape. It appears to be extra clearance around the valves but you should never need it.

The later model 1FZ what I have been calling the 1FZ GEN2 has a very different combustion chamber shape and I think the later gasket design is more reflective of that then the earlier combustion chamber. Where ours has the large quench pads, the GEN2 is almost a perfectly round combustion chamber.

I have posted pics somewhere and I will see if I can dig them up.

Also the head gasket looks very strange, not round at all, and rear cyl has a rather large bump in it. Never seen anything like this!
Any ideas. Perhaps head gasket was changed, I couldn't find any markings to tell what this one was.
Perhaps someone did a really poor torque up job???
Anyone seen the likes of this?

View attachment 1462929
View attachment 1462930
View attachment 1462931
View attachment 1462932
View attachment 1462933

 

[hazard]

Love to see pics of it.
More than that I'd love to get one!!

 

[scottryana]