1FZ engine building and blueprinting (2 Viewers)

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Next up; Camshaft.
This is where I really had to concentrate on measuring correctly. Each measurement was done many times until I was confident of reasonable accuracy. First I wanted to practice by measuring lobe lift using dial indicator. See my indicator mount, works perfect on spark plug tower, sits solid in just the right spot and way easier to set up than the regular stand.

Toyota states "Camlift" at 8.3 mm (0.327") on 1FZ FE, 8.7 mm (0.343") on distributor less 1FZ FE. I assume they mean lobe lift as lash needs to be factored in.

My measurements were:
Intake lobe lift range of 0.3385"-0.340"
Exhaust lobe lift range 0.3391"-0.340"
Therefore I am assuming a designed lobe lift of 0.340" which doesn't match the Toyota specs above, but I cant remember where I got them.

I also measured camshaft thrust at:
Intake 0.0020"
Exhaust 0.0025"
Toyota spec 0.0012-0.0013-max 0.0039, so well within range.
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Extra Cam Lobe????
Anyone know what the extra cam lobe on the intake cam was for? See pics it sits between the #1 and #2 valve sets, and there is an unused boss on outside of block that looks like it matches the lobe position.
A leftover from 1FZ? Looks like it was to drive a pump or something, like the Chevy mechanical fuel pump style.
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More Camshaft!
In these measurements I measured the exact timing and specs of lift. But only for Intake 1A and exhaust 1A, too much to do all. But I did measure the timing of open and close for all valves to check cam "phasing".
I took a degree reading at opening (using SAE spec 0.006), then at Industry standard of 0.050, then every 0.050 until closing again at 0.006.
Generally "Advertised" duration is using 0.006, but cams are speced at 0.050 for actual duration.
For timing and phasing I used Cam Industry standard of 0.050. All phasing was referenced to Cylinder #1.

I repeated measurements many times, however as we are measuring against a number of interacting parts (valves which can spin or trap dirt, shims that spin, lobes, springs, keepers. and all have an oil film that would be measurable) I'm not sure of results.

One oddity is that my max valve lift, as measured off the top of the shim using a dial indicator with the correct bent anvil, shows as 0.330 intake and 0.326 exhaust. Whereas I measured lobe lift previously as 0.340, but that was using bottom of base circle as "0"., and this measurements would have to account for lash. Lash, as I posted earlier was lacking in my engine by between 2&3 thousands, so lashed properly that would have to be added to these specs and then it would be inline with Toyota specs.
I stated in a previous post that Toyota spec was probably lobe lift, but obviously not.

Conclusions in next post.
Please comment and tell me where I am wrong or what I may be missing.
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Camshaft conclusions:
Here is what I think the Toyota cam spec is from measuring out, however we have no way of knowing if cam is timed correctly. If anyone knows I would love to find out. It would be great to have an adjustable timing gear to be able to tune timing, or just set to spec, if we knew what that was.

All in degrees (can't find key for that symbol).
Intake: Opens @ 16 BTDC @ 0.006", Opens @ 1/2 ATDC @ 0.050". Peak lift 92 ATDC. Closes 9 ABDC @ 0.050", 35 ABDC @0.006".
Exhaust: Opens 47 BBDC @ 0.006", 32 BBDC @ 0.050". Peak @ 57 ABDC. Closes 26 BTDC @0.050, 6 BTDC @0.006.

Intake lift: 0.330 would be 0.334 at proper lash. Dwell at peak lift is 13 degrees.
Exhaust lift: 0.327 would be 0.330 at proper lash. Dwell at peak lift is 8 degrees.

Advertised specs @ 0.006" :
Intake duration 231 degrees
Exhaust duration 221 degrees
Intake lobe center line 99.5 ATDC
Exhaust lobe center line 116.5 BTDC
Overlap 10 degrees
Lobe separation angle 108 degrees

Actual specs (use these to compare to other cams) @ 0.005"
Intake duration 188.5 degrees
Exhaust duration 186 degrees
Intake lobe center line 94.75 ATDC
Exhaust lobe center line 119 BTDC
Overlap -26.5 degrees
Lobe separation angle 106.88 degrees
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More camshaft.
I forgot that two posts back I should have posted cam phasing.
I am not fully confident on these but I did do them multiple times with decent repeatability.
All reference to Valve 1A on intake and exhaust.

Intake: 1A Reference. 4B close 1 degree early. 5B closes 2 degrees early.6B opens 1 degree late and closes 2 degrees early.
Exhaust: 1A reference. 1B closes 1 degree early. 2A closes 2 degrees early. 3A closes 2 degrees early. 3B opens 1 degree late and close 3 degrees early. 4A closes 2 degrees early. 4B closes 2 degree early.
5B closes 1 degree early. 6B closes 1 degree early.

More potential tolerance stack up. Add this to the previous crankshaft phase error and we have the beginnings of something.

Next post, head off.
If anyone wants any measurements, weights, pics etc just ask. I will be posting weights and volumes later.

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OFF WITH THE HEAD!

Compressed gasket thickness ( aprox, hard to be exact) 0.053-0.057". Not sure if its original, looks like it?
Crankshaft thrust 0.0003", Toyota spec 0.0008-0.0118
Oil pan gasket surface, bowed by 0.0015 at cyls 5-6.
Very little upper cylinder ridge, and still a pretty good finish in cyls.
Many cylinders have some very small rust pitting in upper areas as if it had water internally at one time.
Looks like cyls 4&5 are running different, more soot, this is also the area of the head that seemed to be running hot from my earliest posts.


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Very interesting, I have never seen a cam with such short durations ever. Makes me wonder why in the world Toyota would have done that, I guess in an attempt to maximize low end torque and idle.

It really makes aftermarket cams look greedy with 238+ degrees of separation and 10+mm of lift. You should be able to get a lot more air and fuel in this engine with a different cam.

Looking forward to your rod and piston weights when you pull the stockers.
 
Piston to deck clearance ranges from 0.010" to 0.0085" below deck. However this is not true deck as deck is not straight and there is probably some tolerance stack up. If I have to deck 3 thou its going to be tight and will limit stroking somewhat, depending on pistons.
See pic.
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Very interesting, I have never seen a cam with such short durations ever. Makes me wonder why in the world Toyota would have done that, I guess in an attempt to maximize low end torque and idle.

It really makes aftermarket cams look greedy with 238+ degrees of separation and 10+mm of lift. You should be able to get a lot more air and fuel in this engine with a different cam.

Looking forward to your rod and piston weights when you pull the stockers.
I believe my measuring was good, even if I am off a bit it gives a good indication.
This thing definitely needs a better cam.
 
Very interesting and nice write-up. Just when I think MUD can't get any more OCD I'm proven wrong again. :)
 
I believe my measuring was good, even if I am off a bit it gives a good indication.
This thing definitely needs a better cam.

I have always thought this.

Are you devoted to keeping this an N/A build?

Awesome work so far. Thanks for the detailed numbers.
 
Very interesting and nice write-up. Just when I think MUD can't get any more OCD I'm proven wrong again. :)
Definitely need to be an OCD, anal compulsive to do this.
Stay tuned I've done a lot more just haven't posted yet.
 
I have always thought this.

Are you devoted to keeping this an N/A build?

Awesome work so far. Thanks for the detailed numbers.
No plans for what type of build yet. Originally was just going to full blueprint and stroke. Now not so sure.
First see how big a crank I can stuff in.
Then sonic test to see how big I can bore.
Probably build 9 or 10:1 AND RUN n/a at first.
 
Very interesting, I have never seen a cam with such short durations ever. Makes me wonder why in the world Toyota would have done that, I guess in an attempt to maximize low end torque and idle.

It really makes aftermarket cams look greedy with 238+ degrees of separation and 10+mm of lift. You should be able to get a lot more air and fuel in this engine with a different cam.

Looking forward to your rod and piston weights when you pull the stockers.
Scott
I have some weights for you. I have done a lot more than I have yet posted.
All in grams:
Piston and rod, complete with bearings and rings 1,742.9 grams
Piston 570.6
Rod complete no bolts but with bushing 813.3
Rod complete with bolts and bushing 919.1
ring set 41
1 bolt with nut 52.9
2 snap rings 2.4
2 halfs bearings 47.6
rod cap bare 240.7
rod no cap 572.6
pin 162.2
 
Very good stuff thanks!

Even the very stoutest forged rods and pistons will be lighter than that. I knew the stock rod and piston were quite stout, now we know for sure. haha.


Scott
I have some weights for you. I have done a lot more than I have yet posted.
All in grams:
Piston and rod, complete with bearings and rings 1,742.9 grams
Piston 570.6
Rod complete no bolts but with bushing 813.3
Rod complete with bolts and bushing 919.1
ring set 41
1 bolt with nut 52.9
2 snap rings 2.4
2 halfs bearings 47.6
rod cap bare 240.7
rod no cap 572.6
pin 162.2
 
Very good stuff thanks!

Even the very stoutest forged rods and pistons will be lighter than that. I knew the stock rod and piston were quite stout, now we know for sure. haha.
Do you know when they quote rod and piston weights, like your CP, if they are including rod bolts and small end bush, and piston pins?
 
Another shot of the mystery cam lobe!
Third lobe up from bottom on right.
Has a negative base circle roundish lobe of over 1/4' lift, and an oil hole on bottom.View attachment 1461184
Maybe for mechanical fuel pump on carbureted version for 3rd world counties?
 
Very good stuff thanks!

Even the very stoutest forged rods and pistons will be lighter than that. I knew the stock rod and piston were quite stout, now we know for sure. haha.

Holy smokes are they ever stout, like bridge girders.

Those things are heavy like sledgehammers.

Remember, the 1FZ can make legendary reliable power.
 

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