- Thread starter
- #21
Got me again.
I was going with a couple different suppliers that used CD. I guess they are not standardized.
I will keep a watch on weights and ratios as I design.
Thanks for the good info
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I was going with a couple different suppliers that used CD. I guess they are not standardized.
I will keep a watch on weights and ratios as I design.
Thanks for the good info
- Thread starter
- #22
Yes that is my piston
First land from crown to #1 ring is 0.250"
Second land is 0.200"
Third land is 0.100"
Oil ring support land is 0.110"
First land from crown to #1 ring is 0.250"
Second land is 0.200"
Third land is 0.100"
Oil ring support land is 0.110"
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks
Obviously you built up an engine, do you have a thread? Or care to tell me what you built and results?
I haven't really built an engine, I am still in the parts collection stage. The 1FZ is not like a Chevy where you call the company and a week later you get parts. Haha. Some of the custom parts take weeks to months to get. The intake manifold took me well over a year....
My engine is being built for a Turbo, but I would imagine some of the same internal parts still apply. It is an increased compression engine (around 10:1) without going crazy.
But you can read my most recent build up here
80 series where to start! Again....
And my old stuff here.
LX450 where to start!
My engine is being built for a Turbo, but I would imagine some of the same internal parts still apply. It is an increased compression engine (around 10:1) without going crazy.
But you can read my most recent build up here
80 series where to start! Again....
And my old stuff here.
LX450 where to start!
- Thread starter
- #26
Received used drivetrainand have begun tearing down. Everything looks good, looks like its never been apart except transfer case as it has new silicone. First time into one of these, Gawd it's HD for its size compared to SBC!
Having trouble taking lower oil pan off, seems stuck, am I missing something working too late at night, or is there a trick?
I can tell it's never been off, about 180,000 miles.
Having trouble taking lower oil pan off, seems stuck, am I missing something working too late at night, or is there a trick?
I can tell it's never been off, about 180,000 miles.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
Will begin measuring everything during tear down soon. I plan to measure and weigh everything including plenum and port volumes. Happy to post all as I go or create a file I can e mail. Is it OK to post it all here as I go?
I will start with mapping all the original cam timing specs
If any one wants any particular measurements or weights, or other teardown info, let me know
I will start with mapping all the original cam timing specs
If any one wants any particular measurements or weights, or other teardown info, let me know
I'm so lost but very glad you guys know what youre doing
The bottom pan you just need to try your best to cut the sealant with a razor, and some times a little dead blow hammer to the side work to shake it loose.
And yes it is very beefy, compared to a short block. Wait until you get to the rods and pistons. Hell the crank is like 80-88lbs of forged Japanese steel. Stock SBC is like 52-54lbs.
Post all the weights and measurements here, that is good historical data.
And yes it is very beefy, compared to a short block. Wait until you get to the rods and pistons. Hell the crank is like 80-88lbs of forged Japanese steel. Stock SBC is like 52-54lbs.
Post all the weights and measurements here, that is good historical data.
- Thread starter
- #30
Haven't done much lately, but did notice a few things under valve cover of interest. Cam bearing caps from the center cyls out have more burnished oil deposits with virtually none on end caps, and more biased towards front. See picture. Anyone else noticed this. I can only think of two reasons: More oil splashing in that area, or that area is much hotter. Seems like the centre of the engine is probably hotter which I guess makes more sense but would point to the need for a better coolant flow design.
Quick measure of cam lobes puts them at about 0.330 lift, pretty low even for this type of engine.
Quick measure of cam lobes puts them at about 0.330 lift, pretty low even for this type of engine.
- Thread starter
- #31
Also noticed something you engine builders should be aware of:
Where the polished portion of the cam lobe meets the casting side, there are pieces of casting that can flake off, some even big (tiny really, but it is metal in your oil if they do) and thin enough to crack off with a fingernail. Enlarge the picture for a better look. This cam shows no appreciable wear and by the look of everything else I have seen, the engine was well cared for.
Not sure if aftermarket cams are like this, wouldn't be if they were billet or forged. So if using stock cams, and my initial build probably will, I will, and would suggest it, smooth off the edge where the cam surface meets the casting. No need to go crazy, just a small very fine file downward, at a steep angle away from the lobe surface without contacting it, would be best. Only needs a bit (couple mm) as the cam doesn't wear that much in a well maintained engine.
Where the polished portion of the cam lobe meets the casting side, there are pieces of casting that can flake off, some even big (tiny really, but it is metal in your oil if they do) and thin enough to crack off with a fingernail. Enlarge the picture for a better look. This cam shows no appreciable wear and by the look of everything else I have seen, the engine was well cared for.
Not sure if aftermarket cams are like this, wouldn't be if they were billet or forged. So if using stock cams, and my initial build probably will, I will, and would suggest it, smooth off the edge where the cam surface meets the casting. No need to go crazy, just a small very fine file downward, at a steep angle away from the lobe surface without contacting it, would be best. Only needs a bit (couple mm) as the cam doesn't wear that much in a well maintained engine.
Seems a little strange, not sure this is indicative of all 1FZ's I haven't noticed a concentration of burnished oil in the center, usually it is #6 that runs the hottest because of the EGR running around the back of the head as well as the EGR pipe running along the driver's side. I can't think of a reason the 3-4 cylinders would be hotter than the others. Interesting your engine shows this. I would make sure you are closely checking the drains.
- Thread starter
- #33
The block will all be apart and I will look for any signs of clogging or bad casting flash etc. What do you mean by drains? Thanks for the info on adj cam sprocket I have already e mailed him. Hope someone develops adjustable gears also.
That looks like mine did when I got that far. I figured it had something to do with the way oil flows over that area and the added cooking heat of the EGR pipe that used to heat up there.
You guys are in the weeds here as far as all of these specs go and I am just enjoying trying to figure out what you are talking about.
I will say though that I don't think this motor really needs a lot of manipulating. It's really good at what it was designed to do and just making it really well re-built seems more interesting. I could never buy a car that had a modified motor. Once I am off the FSM and advice from people that understand how the truck was made as stock, I am just not going to be able to really do anything meaningful to it and that takes away some of the perceived value in my mind. You would probably have to explain that to a machine shop in the future if they need to rebuild the head again and that seems like a trouble spot.
You guys are in the weeds here as far as all of these specs go and I am just enjoying trying to figure out what you are talking about.
I will say though that I don't think this motor really needs a lot of manipulating. It's really good at what it was designed to do and just making it really well re-built seems more interesting. I could never buy a car that had a modified motor. Once I am off the FSM and advice from people that understand how the truck was made as stock, I am just not going to be able to really do anything meaningful to it and that takes away some of the perceived value in my mind. You would probably have to explain that to a machine shop in the future if they need to rebuild the head again and that seems like a trouble spot.
- Thread starter
- #35
Just got block inside and on engine stand. Broke a few things due to stupidity on the way, vacuum coolant sensor and the balancer/pulley flange (anyone in BC got one they want to sell?)
This thing is a beast, I have only worked on Chevys and very large diesels. My, supposed, 1,500 pound engine stand and attaching bolts started to bend immediately. Had to support free end with wood blocks and replace bolts with better. No wonder its such a stable high miler, everything is overbuilt. Great
!
This thing is a beast, I have only worked on Chevys and very large diesels. My, supposed, 1,500 pound engine stand and attaching bolts started to bend immediately. Had to support free end with wood blocks and replace bolts with better. No wonder its such a stable high miler, everything is overbuilt. Great
- Thread starter
- #36
Engine has not obviously been worked on but is very clean and well maintained. Visual inspection shows all valves clean and similar, oil pan has basically no sludge or particles, nothing amiss. I wonder if it really was 170,000 miles as the junkyard advertised?
- Thread starter
- #37
Spark plugs have seen better days. I wonder how many spark plug changes this engine had, these have been in there a while. Pretty good even wear though, shows things were working properly. Depending on how the engine was last shut down the coloration looks fairly even, no major signs of oil fowling or running lean/rich.
- Thread starter
- #38
Now time to start measuring and tearing down.
Want to see what measurements this baby has compared to stock spec. Starting with valve lash check as pictured here. You can see it is just within spec but definitely on the loose side which would lower valve lift slightly, particularly if there is any under spec cam lobes, which I will measure next. On rebuild I will try to tighten and even up as much as possible.
Variance is pretty good, Intake 0.011 - Exh 0.003
Up next cam lift and all other cam specs and cam timing. Although I won't have any stock figures to compare to. I have asked numerous times with no response. Anyone got 'em?
Might be a while as my dial indicator stand is magnetic and won't work on aluminum heads, tried side of block but not strong enough, gotta buy a clamp style this weekend.
Problem with living remote, 5 hours one way to nearest decent suppliers.
Want to see what measurements this baby has compared to stock spec. Starting with valve lash check as pictured here. You can see it is just within spec but definitely on the loose side which would lower valve lift slightly, particularly if there is any under spec cam lobes, which I will measure next. On rebuild I will try to tighten and even up as much as possible.
Variance is pretty good, Intake 0.011 - Exh 0.003
Up next cam lift and all other cam specs and cam timing. Although I won't have any stock figures to compare to. I have asked numerous times with no response. Anyone got 'em?
Might be a while as my dial indicator stand is magnetic and won't work on aluminum heads, tried side of block but not strong enough, gotta buy a clamp style this weekend.
Problem with living remote, 5 hours one way to nearest decent suppliers.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #39
Interesting on the valve lash specs.
Mine were both 20-30 thousand from Toyota tight spec. I would definitely relash these, Toyota shims come in 20 Thou increments so it would be damn near perfect.
From all the reading on this subject, on this forum and others, no one seems to think this is necessary. I strongly disagree. If everyone wants the most from their engine in terms of longevity, mileage, and power, this is an important adjustment. It is a PIA job (or expensive if you pay someone) but I will, and would recommend, be sticking to the factory interval of, I've heard 100,000 KM, or whenever you have the valve cover of for another reason.
Any comments?
Mine were both 20-30 thousand from Toyota tight spec. I would definitely relash these, Toyota shims come in 20 Thou increments so it would be damn near perfect.
From all the reading on this subject, on this forum and others, no one seems to think this is necessary. I strongly disagree. If everyone wants the most from their engine in terms of longevity, mileage, and power, this is an important adjustment. It is a PIA job (or expensive if you pay someone) but I will, and would recommend, be sticking to the factory interval of, I've heard 100,000 KM, or whenever you have the valve cover of for another reason.
Any comments?
I would definitely shim the valves to spec, but I would wait until you get your new cam.... no reason to reshim the old worn cam, especially because you know you want more lift and likely duration.