1998 Toyota Coaster bb50 electrical service manual needed urgently

[myusername]

why would you fit a second filter?
Good news the primer has turned up and it's the right one, the bad news is they sent the wrong filter, but that is a part i can pick up over here. In addition when I primed it with the old filter on I got no fuel, so I put a vacuum pump on the pipe closer to the tank and still got no fuel. I think during the blowing down the pipes with an airline back in the summer something has come detached in the tank I lost daylight and was frozen so gave up. Will try again next weekend. "one step forward, two step back"

Getting a bad batch of fuel is unfortunately pretty common touring Australia, and the 15B's are often put into 40 series with >40yo fuel tanks. Without a pre filter, the only protection for the lift pump is the course screen on the inlet banjo, or the decrepit original sedimenter which is usually rusty/ruined. Aftermarket filters also usually have a large filter area and sediment/water bowl, so service life can be stretched.

The original 3B setup on a 40 series has a sedimenter on the chassis rail in addition to the main filter. If Coasters had a pre filter before the lift pump this would suggest it's likely safe to add an aftermarket one in similar location (ie, hopefully the fuel feed pump won't cavitate or lack performance)

RE: the filter, I think mine was different than the 3B one, let me know if you need a PN for reference, can get the Toyota number for you, and/or I think I have some sakura filters in the garage.

While troubleshooting, I would just bypass the factory tank setup entirely and run from a fresh jerry can of fuel. Pull the soft fuel line off at the IP banjo and plug it. You only need two hoses and it rules out fuel contamination as an issue. Using clear hose on the return will give an indication when there's fuel getting through the pump.

 

[myusername]

From the EPC (sorry, don't know what year/model you have), it looks like there might be a filter on the tank pickup.

As above, just bypass all of this to check the engine runs, there's no point messing with the fuel tank./lines If it won't run. Working your way through the fuel lines shouldn't be difficult especially if you've had the engine running and know that the thing will go when you find the blockage/fault!

 

[PIeman]

Thank you

 

[roscoFJ73]

Maybe a cousin of the 15B but not a direct descendant?

Cousin or descendant, same thing. I believe it uses the same basic block. Hino , it appears to have all the peripherals in the right places Toyota and Daihatsu have making each others diesels for 2-3 decades.

That appears to be the common one, the same as the usual Toyota primer, ie the one people replace with the Bosch part. The genuine 15BFT Coaster one has the plastic top.

The one I posted is probably an aftermarket hand pump. Its also used on the larger 6 cyl hinos

 

[PIeman]

New primer made no difference. Plenty of pressure built via primer but still no fuel at injector side of pump. So the pump will have to come out, not looking forward to it.

 

[myusername]

New primer made no difference. Plenty of pressure built via primer but still no fuel at injector side of pump. So the pump will have to come out, not looking forward to it.

FYI AFAIA you can't bleed past the inline pump's elements using the primer (if that's what you're trying to do). You need to spin the engine over to prime up to the injectors using the IP's elements.

It's not sounding too promising. I would've thought it should work once bled to the filter housing. Do as much as you can to rule out everything else before getting the IP rebuilt as that's going to cost a small fortune.

Have you bled the IP housing? Maybe take the bleed screw out or crack a line and spin it over to see if the fuel feed pump is working as it should. There's a filter screen on the inlet banjo that can become clogged.

If you put the rack in the no fuel (bypass) position, can you pump fuel past the IP with the feed pump? I'm not super familiar with how the inline IP works but I assume with all the elements in the "stop"/bypass position fuel should bypass through the outlet hose back to the tank.

 

[PIeman]

Started stripping the pump ( crawling under in the snow) and having removed the inlet manifold as there is F/A front access I found an electrical connection, no idea what it does as i understood that fuel shut of is mechanical. Any Ideas maybe a sensor of some kind?

 

[myusername]

Started stripping the pump ( crawling under in the snow) and having removed the inlet manifold as there is F/A front access I found an electrical connection, no idea what it does as i understood that fuel shut of is mechanical. Any Ideas maybe a sensor of some kind?

That's just the tacho (RPM) sensor AFAIA, you don't need it connected to anything to run. Can confirm I have had mine running without it connected to anything - mine doesn't even have a plug anymore just some bare wires. Fuel shutoff is the vacuum actuator with a rod and from memory with vacuum disconnected it defaults to the run position.

The other small rubber line going to the governor side of the pump is the boost reference to the IP and is easily ID'd as it goes to the intake. While you're in there, clean that boost reference line and connections as mine was totally clogged!

It's difficult to see, but it looks like the injector lines were totally dry - there's no wet diesel? From pics it also worryingly looks like debris fell in or there's some corrosion where the lines were taken off?

Also, the rubber/plastic seals at the head end of the injector lines on mine were degraded, I think they're common to other toyota diesels so your local dealer should be able to source them for you.

 

[PIeman]

Any one got any idea on the vacuum system. I have the repaired pump back in. But parts of the vacuum system were detached when i got it. I've got the page from Amayama parts but it does not show which pipe goes where.

 

[myusername]

Any one got any idea on the vacuum system. I have the repaired pump back in. But parts of the vacuum system were detached when i got it. I've got the page from Amayama parts but it does not show which pipe goes where.

If it was me, I'd connect the brakes to vacuum (most likely the big hose), and plug the rest until you confirm the engine runs. You don't need the idle up etc to test the engine.

AFAIA you don't need any other vacuum to make it run, only to turn it off, and that can be done manually. Familiarise yourself with the shutoff solenoid. If it's difficult to reach, run some vac hose straight from the small outlet on the vac pump to a valve where you can reach it easily with engine running, then to the shutoff diaphragm. Vac diaphragm should default to the run position with no vac, shutoff with vacuum.

Once you have it running you can work out the rest. No point spending hours messing about with ancillary vacuum hoses until you know it's healthy.

 

[PIeman]

A huge thanks to everyone that as helped in getting the bus to live. Started and ticked over a treat today. will focus on connecting to the tank rather than the jerry can then I can go for a drive prior to MOT.
Once again thanks