Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
My apologies as I wasn’t very clear. Looking to purchase a reproduction PIO decal.
- Thread starter
- #1,284
Exhaust project.
Parts list:
Muffler (1983 Ford F-250) 40$
Pipe 155$
Hangers 27$
O-rings for mid hanger 7$
Flanges 35$
Total: 265$
The rest is shop stuff (angle grinder, stands, etc..)
Getting started (sorry, I run a lot - shoes are always everywhere)
The great thing about this pipe kit is that its flared on one end - so you can lego your exhaust system together, tack, then later on do a final weld.
Starting with the downpipe:
After tacking that in place, I used two 45 degree pieces and cut a 90 degree short:
I spent a lot of time on this before tacking into place:
I then tacked it into place and removed the center section for a final weld:
Parts list:
Muffler (1983 Ford F-250) 40$
Pipe 155$
Hangers 27$
O-rings for mid hanger 7$
Flanges 35$
Total: 265$
The rest is shop stuff (angle grinder, stands, etc..)
Getting started (sorry, I run a lot - shoes are always everywhere)
The great thing about this pipe kit is that its flared on one end - so you can lego your exhaust system together, tack, then later on do a final weld.
Starting with the downpipe:
After tacking that in place, I used two 45 degree pieces and cut a 90 degree short:
I spent a lot of time on this before tacking into place:
I then tacked it into place and removed the center section for a final weld:
- Thread starter
- #1,285
Continued:
After tacking, re-installing to verify, I pulled it out again and did a final weld.
Not the worlds best welds - but will do.
To work on the rear section now that the mid pipe is ready, I sat the muffler on jack stands and marked the "clock" of the muffler so that it would match up on both sides (offset inlet/outlet).
I also wanted to leave a "lip" so that I can use a Toyota exhaust crush gasket.
Once verified, welded the flange to the muffler:
Before welding any further, I once again installed the mid-pipe (another bonus of this slide-fit kit) and re-verified the flange on the midpipe side:
the pipe is resting on the frame here, but will be about 1.5" away from it once installed (mid pipe isn't welded on yet).
Welded the flange to the mid pipe:
Test-fit once again, with bolts finger tight:
Pretty "OEM" looking, I do say so myself. I'll work on the hangers, and the outlet and it'll be ready to rock.
After tacking, re-installing to verify, I pulled it out again and did a final weld.
Not the worlds best welds - but will do.
To work on the rear section now that the mid pipe is ready, I sat the muffler on jack stands and marked the "clock" of the muffler so that it would match up on both sides (offset inlet/outlet).
I also wanted to leave a "lip" so that I can use a Toyota exhaust crush gasket.
Once verified, welded the flange to the muffler:
Before welding any further, I once again installed the mid-pipe (another bonus of this slide-fit kit) and re-verified the flange on the midpipe side:
the pipe is resting on the frame here, but will be about 1.5" away from it once installed (mid pipe isn't welded on yet).
Welded the flange to the mid pipe:
Test-fit once again, with bolts finger tight:
Pretty "OEM" looking, I do say so myself. I'll work on the hangers, and the outlet and it'll be ready to rock.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,289
Great question - I used 2.5” which I realize is bigger than oem, here was my game plan:
1. I searched for a LONG time to find a muffler that is the same-ish size as oem. I know I could have stepped down (adapters), but that would have looked odd. This muffler is a 2.5" in/out. With similar dimensions to oem, for 40 bucks.
2. I also am not a huge fan of how it steps down at the mid pipe on OEM cruisers from 2.5" to 2".
3. There are mufflers (like cruiserparts.net or ebay) on the market that have oem style with 2" in/out but they are 300+ and 700+ respectively.
So, I stuck with 2.5" for the whole system, saved some cash - should anyone that has a welder, some patience and a few hours want to go this route, too.
1. I searched for a LONG time to find a muffler that is the same-ish size as oem. I know I could have stepped down (adapters), but that would have looked odd. This muffler is a 2.5" in/out. With similar dimensions to oem, for 40 bucks.
2. I also am not a huge fan of how it steps down at the mid pipe on OEM cruisers from 2.5" to 2".
3. There are mufflers (like cruiserparts.net or ebay) on the market that have oem style with 2" in/out but they are 300+ and 700+ respectively.
So, I stuck with 2.5" for the whole system, saved some cash - should anyone that has a welder, some patience and a few hours want to go this route, too.
- Thread starter
- #1,290
Exhaust continued!
After I got everything setup and mocked into place, I measured and welded on the hooks for hangers. Then, removed it all again and painted with hi-temp exhaust paint.
Here, you can see where I left a lip for the crush gasket - and the finished mid-pipe, ready to install.
Now that the mid-pipe was completed, I needed to mock-up the exhaust tip/post muffler area, with a hook as well. After several iterations, I decided to go with two 45 degree bends, and a straight exit. This also placed the pipe in-line with the frame, so it was easy to weld on a hook.
I made sure to snug down the bolts so that the geometry of the tail pipe was accurate and wouldnt be "off" when I cinched everything down.
Once it was to my liking, I tacked it into place and removed the tail section, welded it all into place and painted.
Final installation:
After I got everything setup and mocked into place, I measured and welded on the hooks for hangers. Then, removed it all again and painted with hi-temp exhaust paint.
Here, you can see where I left a lip for the crush gasket - and the finished mid-pipe, ready to install.
Now that the mid-pipe was completed, I needed to mock-up the exhaust tip/post muffler area, with a hook as well. After several iterations, I decided to go with two 45 degree bends, and a straight exit. This also placed the pipe in-line with the frame, so it was easy to weld on a hook.
I made sure to snug down the bolts so that the geometry of the tail pipe was accurate and wouldnt be "off" when I cinched everything down.
Once it was to my liking, I tacked it into place and removed the tail section, welded it all into place and painted.
Final installation:
- Thread starter
- #1,291
Five years, a few thousand hours of labor, parts from 11 countries and numerous states, help from all of you...I am finished.
Liz and I just drove it around for about 7 miles. It is smooth, quiet, accelerates great, idles perfect, I couldn't be happier. Next video will be driving it around!
I sigh a deep sigh of relief and pride, thanks for all of you who have helped and followed along. Like many others, I'll be keeping this thread alive to journal all of the adventures.
Exhaust you can barely hear:
She's done!
Liz and I just drove it around for about 7 miles. It is smooth, quiet, accelerates great, idles perfect, I couldn't be happier. Next video will be driving it around!
I sigh a deep sigh of relief and pride, thanks for all of you who have helped and followed along. Like many others, I'll be keeping this thread alive to journal all of the adventures.
Exhaust you can barely hear:
She's done!
Most excellent! Now enjoy it.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Congratulations! Hope you get to enjoy for many years to come
- Thread starter
- #1,294
Cleaning it up and changing the oil. Next week, I'll take it in for inspection.
Sorry for 9000 photos, just in awe its actually done.
Oh, and 10 feet of this came, so I can trim the spare tire carrier and anyone else that has an FJ40 in the entire US.
Sorry for 9000 photos, just in awe its actually done.
Oh, and 10 feet of this came, so I can trim the spare tire carrier and anyone else that has an FJ40 in the entire US.
- Thread starter
- #1,295
I've amassed a bunch of the original oil filters before they went small. Rotella 15-40 and before the oil change, it was recommended I use an engine flush. I ran it for 10 minutes and then changed with Rotella.
I've followed this thread since Day 1. Wow - just effin WOW. I remember a line from Grateful Dead's Truckin - 'What a long, strange trip it's been'
Stunning.
- Thread starter
- #1,299
Another gremlin - the parking brake. Clearly I've overlooked something. The 17mm adjustments at the firewall are 1. buried and 2. annoying. No way to really get a 17mm up in there. According to the FSM, you (at the parking drum/t-case) turn the adjuster nut clockwise until it seats and then back it off one click. Well, my adjuster goes two clicks in either direction.
Adjusted all the way down at the firewall, the parking brake handle pulls all the way out with no resistance. So either A) the cable inside the drum is disconnected or B) I've not set something up inside the drum. Either way, it looks like I'll have to drop the driveshaft and pull it. Sigh.
The fuel gauge doesn't work - (new sending unit). I tested the ground at the sending unit screw, its showing a good ground to the frame, so it must be the sending unit wire back to the gauge. Will have to pull the dash and check resistance on the sending wire.
Thank you for all of the great comments!
Adjusted all the way down at the firewall, the parking brake handle pulls all the way out with no resistance. So either A) the cable inside the drum is disconnected or B) I've not set something up inside the drum. Either way, it looks like I'll have to drop the driveshaft and pull it. Sigh.
The fuel gauge doesn't work - (new sending unit). I tested the ground at the sending unit screw, its showing a good ground to the frame, so it must be the sending unit wire back to the gauge. Will have to pull the dash and check resistance on the sending wire.
Thank you for all of the great comments!
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
How is the instrument cluster printed circuit board? You may want to also check the yellow/red wire on the barrel connector. Sometimes the board circuit gets damaged….