Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
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- Thread starter
- #1,322
@Ackcruisers again, thank you for hooking me up with such a quality product. Crimped easy, installed easy, clean and simple.
While I have excellent connection and a very clean install now, the fuel gauge alas, still doesn't work. Upon another member's recommendation, I grounded the yellow/red stripe at the tank and the needle on the fuel gauge rose to full. Does that mean its a bad ground at the tank? (the ground in the hold-down screw of the sending unit)? I was combating mosquitos but I was about to test running a new ground.
I feel like I'm close!
Such a great product, @Ackcruisers - thank you.
While I have excellent connection and a very clean install now, the fuel gauge alas, still doesn't work. Upon another member's recommendation, I grounded the yellow/red stripe at the tank and the needle on the fuel gauge rose to full. Does that mean its a bad ground at the tank? (the ground in the hold-down screw of the sending unit)? I was combating mosquitos but I was about to test running a new ground.
I feel like I'm close!
Such a great product, @Ackcruisers - thank you.
- Thread starter
- #1,323
To be clear, what I did to test was I just took a chunk of wire and stuffed one end in the fuel sending wire (YR at the fuel tank) and the other end of the wire on the ground wire at the screw. I turned the ignition on, and the fuel needle rose to "F".
Continuity test from YR wire at the fuel sending unit to the gauge - check.
Ground wire continuity from the little ground screw on the sending unit to the frame - check.
Fuel sending grounded (as mentioned above) to see if needle raises - check.
Confused - check.
Continuity test from YR wire at the fuel sending unit to the gauge - check.
Ground wire continuity from the little ground screw on the sending unit to the frame - check.
Fuel sending grounded (as mentioned above) to see if needle raises - check.
Confused - check.
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- Aug 12, 2007
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- Thread starter
- #1,325
Pretty sure the wires are hooked up correctly - I went through each wire. Otherwise, when I grounded the fuel sending unit, the gauge wouldn't have gone up.
Temp works, signals all work, all meters work, literally everything is perfect outside of fuel.
However, thanks for posting the diagrams.
Temp works, signals all work, all meters work, literally everything is perfect outside of fuel.
However, thanks for posting the diagrams.
Yeah I think pulling the unit out and manually actuating it while watching the gauge will be informative.
- Thread starter
- #1,330
Is there anything special in installing the sending unit? I guess I can crack open the manual tomorrow. As I thought about this I was just wondering if perhaps I have it turned / clocked wrong or something inside the tank, prohibiting it from operating.
Generally you should not be able to get it in the wrong way but things can happen. If grounding out the YR wire makes the gauge go up your wiring and gauge are generally OK, as is the ground to the gauge/meter. Measure the resistance (in Ohm) over the brass button and body of the sender. It should read about 120ohm at empty and 17ohm at full, with values between that fuel level dependent. If you have a value withing the stated range, your sender works.
If you are getting 120ohm even with fuel in the tank your sender actuation lever is likely stuck all the way down either from a wrong installation (it can jam against a baffle) or a float came off or something of that nature.
The gauge should work with the sender out of the tank by moving the arm if the ground wire is good and attached and the YR is connected.
- Thread starter
- #1,332
Good news! I popped the passenger seat out of the way and removed the sending unit. Yes, go ahead and laugh. It was stuck down! Seems it was just me installing the sending unit with the tank out, manhandling it and so on that somehow lodged the float down far enough to hang up. I freed it and verified the gauge going up and down and reinstalled. Note for the future, install the sending unit AFTER the tank is installed and settled into place.
NOW....every light, gauge, switch, latch, handle, plug, and feature works as it should. Sigh of relief. I can call this job DONE. Maiden camping trip hopefully soon (with all 1970's camping gear!).
THANK YOU all for the help and advice in troubleshooting and following along.
NOW....every light, gauge, switch, latch, handle, plug, and feature works as it should. Sigh of relief. I can call this job DONE. Maiden camping trip hopefully soon (with all 1970's camping gear!).
THANK YOU all for the help and advice in troubleshooting and following along.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Very satisfying indeed to solve the problem and to know why the problem came about. Great job. Were you able to solve the parking brake issue?
- Thread starter
- #1,334
Parking brake - I think so. Yes. I'll know when I get pull it out of the garage. What I did was (first, referred back to my assembly photos, luckily a benefit of taking millions of photos) and then basically remove everything out of the way at the firewall. I then removed the cable, and adjusted it all the way tight, reinstalled and then loosened until I got the 7-9 clicks. However, will it work when I drive? I "feel" resistance now when I engage the parking brake, so, that should be it.
More to follow. /high five
More to follow. /high five
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Great job. At best, I think that our parking brake provides a bit of resistance to rolling on a flat surface. Wouldn't want to rely on it on any kind of slope. A good size rock behind one of the tires is much more reliable. 
Great job. At best, I think that our parking brake provides a bit of resistance to rolling on a flat surface. Wouldn't want to rely on it on any kind of slope. A good size rock behind one of the tires is much more reliable.
I agree whole heartedly. I had one fail decades ago. It just let loose. It was parked with the engine running. It was on hill, on a trail with someone in the vehicle. Fortunately a vehicle was barely behind the 40. The rear tires of each vehicle barely hit each other and stopped the 40. It was the 2nd scariest situation I've ever encountered trail riding. After that, I've never used the parking brake.
- Thread starter
- #1,337
Good test on the parking brake! What is also cool, is that the light comes on the dash as it should with the parking brake on. Cool.
Also, with the help of a friend that's been following along, I have the correct decal on the jack as well. Last - I took the recommendation to get the correct WARN decal and placed it in the correct location for 1978, inner door jamb.
Sweet!
Also, with the help of a friend that's been following along, I have the correct decal on the jack as well. Last - I took the recommendation to get the correct WARN decal and placed it in the correct location for 1978, inner door jamb.
Sweet!
- Thread starter
- #1,339
Quick trip into Brooklyn today to check out some camping gear. Second pic of my coleman lantern collection. Just getting into it and all of a sudden have five! So cool and fun to work on.
Wow all your stuff looks nice! For actual use I like propane or LED's, no fuel smell on your hands - ever. I do have a MO gasoline military Coleman lantern, 2 two burners stoves and 2 single burner stoves. Electric fuel pump on Elsie provides the juice for all the military units. At one time I did a lot of work on Coleman and Crossman products.