Absolutely beautiful! I had a '78, same color and drove it 1,400 miles every two weeks to work flying off shore 14 on - 14off. I finished my '77 after 7 1/2 years working on it between overseas trips. You are very attention to details type of guy and it shows. Again, excellent work and a beautiful 40!
Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
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- #1,262
Adding some decals - going off the documentation by our friend Bill.
My warn hubs decal was on the end of the door, here. (Original/wrinkled/old). I have seen several of them - as documented) on the front ends of the door.
Thanks to @CondeCruiser - I was able to finish the spare tire carrier with all of the fittings (I think) it is supposed to have.
I also found the electrical (ground, of course) gremlin in the rear license plate lights. All working now:
Next is wrapping up building the exhaust. Should have updates by the weekend!
Cheers, all.
My warn hubs decal was on the end of the door, here. (Original/wrinkled/old). I have seen several of them - as documented) on the front ends of the door.
Thanks to @CondeCruiser - I was able to finish the spare tire carrier with all of the fittings (I think) it is supposed to have.
I also found the electrical (ground, of course) gremlin in the rear license plate lights. All working now:
Next is wrapping up building the exhaust. Should have updates by the weekend!
Cheers, all.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Are you getting it finished up for Concours d' Elegance in Pebble Beach? 10 Days left!
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- #1,264
Extensive research and hunting for some very rare bits went into what I'ved learned are the "correct" glove box contents for this truck. While I am missing the Port Installed Options (PIO) decal, this is what I have been able to determine is correct:
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- Thread starter
- #1,265
Glove box continued:
Luckily, I was able to score two of these original lamps. They are brass-like (usually corroded) and have two hooks. The show-quality lamp is in the ridiculously hard to find bag, stamped "TR" on the back and "TEQ" on the lid. This is the spare:
Luckily, I was able to score two of these original lamps. They are brass-like (usually corroded) and have two hooks. The show-quality lamp is in the ridiculously hard to find bag, stamped "TR" on the back and "TEQ" on the lid. This is the spare:
Not sure if it matters to you but I purchased that version of the warn hub decal too and there are quite a few issues with it. The biggest thing was the typo missing space between the words lock & position, the hubs and text should say 4x4 / 4x2 vs lock / free, and the warn logo up top should be bold. City racer has the correct replacement decal available.
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- #1,267
They are likely scared of getting in trouble for producing and selling something with the WARN name.
Glad I can help! Loving the progress lately
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- #1,271
With a new decal on the way, I’ll probably do what Bill and others documented for us and place it on the front of the inside door. Will update with photos when complete.
You'll need two more of the "L" shaped rubber bumpers in the lower two holes. Also, the backside edges of the latch should each have a piece of U shaped rubber channel over them.
I gave up and ran a ground wire. There were too many layers of paint on my doors to get them to work without one.
Nice build.
- Thread starter
- #1,273
Anyone have a photo, or better yet a source for these? Or the U shaped rubber?
Thank you for the insight!
Parts catalog shows 1 Protector, Spare Wheel Lock, 51973-90300.
The drawing suggests placement on the bottom edge, although my recollection is that it is actually on the top edge, like this Land Cruiser Nation example.
McMaster sells a 6-piece rubber trim selector pack that includes a piece that fits the edge, item 8507K4 for $5.31.
The drawing suggests placement on the bottom edge, although my recollection is that it is actually on the top edge, like this Land Cruiser Nation example.
McMaster sells a 6-piece rubber trim selector pack that includes a piece that fits the edge, item 8507K4 for $5.31.
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- #1,276
You all are awesome. Thanks! I can't tell you how exciting this is to be down to the spare tire carrier and exhaust details. Hopefully a maiden voyage this weekend, with video and photo.
I have the top caps (you can see in the below photo), the bumper at the top, the lower bumper, the spring and will find the edge protector today.
@numby You'd mentioned "You'll need two more of the "L" shaped rubber bumpers in the lower two holes." Not sure what you mean here, are you referring to two more of the 51917-90301 bumper that lcnation sells? I've never seen anything in those two lower holes before.
I have the top caps (you can see in the below photo), the bumper at the top, the lower bumper, the spring and will find the edge protector today.
@numby You'd mentioned "You'll need two more of the "L" shaped rubber bumpers in the lower two holes." Not sure what you mean here, are you referring to two more of the 51917-90301 bumper that lcnation sells? I've never seen anything in those two lower holes before.
Great photos of your work, Dallas! Your thread should be required reading for restorers.
I vote that the 2 lower holes in the tire carrier are drain holes for any water that accidentally gets inside those upright tubes. Nothing 'goes in them' that I have ever seen. Recall that other tubular things (like a '65 seat frame for example) have drain holes very near the bottom of the tubes.
I vote that the 2 lower holes in the tire carrier are drain holes for any water that accidentally gets inside those upright tubes. Nothing 'goes in them' that I have ever seen. Recall that other tubular things (like a '65 seat frame for example) have drain holes very near the bottom of the tubes.
Yes, those two holes and the 90301 number. I have seen three bumpers but that was back in the day and doesn't mean it was correct even then. We were going through a s***-ton of microfiche in the late 1990s. I think the parts counter guy I worked with said something like "3 required" but he could have been dyslexic or blind. Nice kid, though.
That makes sense other than the top plugs are pretty effective at stopping water entry. I say leave them out as I could easily be wrong. I don't think the door can swing open and actually hit the other two anyway.
As to the hinge protector I'm not certain at all. I ended up with two and am glad I did. 51973-90300 is a probably a substitution number as it doesn't match my (very fallible) records.
Love your work and attention to detail.
I did a quick search for a PIO decal the other day and came up empty handed.
Any ideas?
I did a quick search for a PIO decal the other day and came up empty handed.
Any ideas?
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- #1,280