Build Rub A Dub Dub, Pablo's Got A New Tub!!!

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It has been a minute since I posted any updates on my 40, but I have a few things going on...
  1. Some friends and I have been working on a header for the 2F based on the original Downey design. We have made a few design changes since the v1 prototype, so I was able to put an early prototype on my 40!
  2. The header requires removing the EGR, so I wanted to study up on that and approach the deletion of this system the right way. There is a lot of knowledge out there, so I tried to pull everything together - including scans from my Emissions Manual into one thread on emissions and proper desmog for a US fed Spec '78 40.
  3. I finally went to the parts store to score this steering stabilizer - it should be in by 1 PM!
 
Do you ever put things off, fearing how long or involved something might take and then once you dig in it is not that bad? I finally did my de-smog yesterday and after making the thread linked above, it went very smoothly!

I started with this:
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It was this line being disconnected, and the fact that the shop I used for the header install not putting the ABV and air injection hoses back on that made me start This Thread.

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Back in the day we had to relocate the ABV for the addition of the PS pump, but all is well:

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Now I have the TP, Advance/Spark Control, Evap and AI systems all hooked up properly.
I am still using the ported vacuum at the carb for TP and Advance, and now also Evap.
The 1-way valve for TP was in backwards! I wonder how long it has been like that?

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Retard port is capped off:
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I am no longer using the Blue VSV:
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No more connections at the VSV:
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PabloCruise said:
Now I have the TP, Advance/Spark Control, Evap and AI systems all hooked up properly.
I am still using the ported vacuum at the carb for TP and Advance, and now also Evap.
The 1-way valve for TP was in backwards! I wonder how long it has been like that?

View attachment 3566797
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Retard port is capped off:
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I am no longer using the Blue VSV:
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No more connections at the VSV:
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Click to expand...
After going through all this, I was able to able to lose this much vacuum line:

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Earlier (top of page) I mentioned putting an early prototype of the TriMeki (@Fe3 ) header for 2F on my 40.

That cascaded into putting a prototype of the TriMeki exhaust system for FJ40 on as well.

Details here, but the TL;DR version is we had to do some mods, and now I have a sweet 2.5" exhaust on the 40!

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Next it was time to go to Cruise Moab 2024 and show the Cruiser community our header and exhaust!

The 40 did well climbing up to Eisenhower Tunnel and over Vail Pass, but as I got close to Parachute, things changed...

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Big thanks to my Main Man @FJBen for starting this thread to try to solve all my problems:

forum.ih8mud.com

Real time help: stranded in grand junction, CO

So @PabloCruise is stranded in grand junction on his way to cruise moab. They are thinking fuel delivery. 1976or 78 fj40 carbed Drove fine until outside of parachute. Then started stumbling lack of power. Opened gas cap, no real change Been using ethanol free, no change Changed fuel...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

I made it as far as Grand Junction that night and found some green chile - all was right with the world! @gonzopancho joined me and we made plans for how to get the 40 running at full strength.

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The next morning we ran through some various ideas from Ben's thread, bought some fuel filters, and headed W for Moab!

She did pretty well! Going up the hills was not too bad...

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And then back home.

Now trying to do the work to figure out what my issue(s) were over those 850+ miles:

forum.ih8mud.com

Ignition Coil Questions - 1978 Fed Spec 40

I know there are a few coil threads out there already, I have been reading them! I am trying to figure out: What I have on my 40, If what I have is correct? And, is my coil the source of my recent troubles? Last item, if I have to replace my coil, what is a suitable replacement (OEM Toy p/n is...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Today's project is checking the spark plugs (see how they look after my issues), check vacuum, and replace the tach.

My tach no longer worked when I got the 40 back from paint (I think that was 2016?!? No need to rush into things...) Finally last week I pulled it and wired it direct to the battery and coil and confirmed it does not work. It seems to be difficult to open these up all the way to assess.

I had a small Auto Meter, but I sure didn't need the 6k version (2891)! I found the same size version that goes up to 4k (2890) - much better.

Based on my math, 4k on these tires w/ 4.11s would equal ~92 MPH! I don't plan on doing that. I understand the mud crowd might be winding out the 2F in other gears, but I think this will work for me.

I went in to set the switches for 6 cylinder configuration, and put the little green cover on - these tachs have not changed much in almost 20 years!

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PabloCruise said:
Time for tires! After lots of price checks, and @FJBen recommendation, I thought I would give the Yokohama G003s a try...

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Click to expand...
I was doing some math for the new tach.
Yokohoma says my 33x12.5 R15 G003 will have 636 revolutions/mile: GEOLANDAR M/T® G003 - https://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/geolandar-m-t-g003

If the circumference of a circle is 2*Pi*R, the D of this tire comes in at ~31.7". So not quite 32" tall, but it's a 33!

I still like these tires BTW, they were nice on the drive over to Moab. I am sure anything would be nicer than the 20 year old MTs I was running!

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Measure D again when on rims and air’d up.
 
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