Builds 1978 FJ40 Mustard Yellow - almost perfect thread. (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

Next I broke out the 4Plus rear swingout and spent an hour drilling and installing the lower section. Sadly, I got the correct lower and the incorrect upper so I’ll have to wait to finish it up. The rest of the hardware is installed so it will be a 10 minute install once the correct swingout arrives.

New OEM reflectors. Cleaned up an old trailer harness while I was back there.

These little simple swing outs are on everything build. They get rid of all the annoying rattles in the back and really support a heavy 33” tire nicely. I even adapted one to work on my Pig.

 

[wngrog]

@SMG was also in the house with the kick ass hood hinges and OEM replica air cleaner stickers.

 

[wngrog]

I did some other non photo worthy stuff like cutting out old stereo wires and tidying up under the dash.

I grabbed the pedal out and bent it back to use the overhead style throttle cable like I’ve always used. The other brackets were too hard to deal with being under the brake booster. The lack of full pedal the PO had will be addressed by the fact that I put more bend in the pedal away from the firewall. It should be perfect now.

I fixed This frayed braided cable I messed up while jacking with the old setup. Got it reinstalled. @FJ60Cam is sending me one of his brackets and I’ll get that sorted while I wait on in Tank pump parts.

Also, I am a huge fan of City Racer’s fuse boxes. I pull the old. Add some Toyota terminal salve and plug em in. Nice and fresh. I even got the horn back after this “mod”

Finally I bench bled the period correct Aisin master. A good pump pump pump pump hold session and this guy should stop nice.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Great work...

eh... I think I would flip that steering stabilizer.

As it is installed now the dust cover will collect mud and water.

Sorry, Im being a backseat mechanic.

 

[wngrog]

Great work...

eh... I think I would flip that steering stabilizer.

As it is installed now the dust cover will collect mud and water.

Sorry, Im being a backseat mechanic.

Always good when someone has a good catch. Thanks for pointing it out. Now to go make sure all the trucks around here have it right......

 

[umpqua]

Good stuff here.

 

[wngrog]

Found a great option for the hole in the cowl. We will bend it a bit to mold the curve and powder coat it with the tailgate. I drilled the hole out to 1.25” so it’s a good fit.

 

[G-Cat]

^^^That’s a sexy finger.

 

[wngrog]

The-parts-guy-formerly-known-as-Beno set is up with some beautiful OEM gaskets for the doors. @SMG for the pins.

Off to the races. This 3M glue is the bomb. It sets up fast. Take it slow. Work a section at a time.

 

[wngrog]

Some other steel rat chewed a hole in the door like the cowl. No idea. Looks like Wes’s brother let loose with a 20 g slug one day.

I busted out the step bit again and made it round and stuffed a firewall plug in it.

Goof OFF. It’s the best stuff for PO goofs

A quick trip to Office Depot is your friend on gasket work

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Is that "shotgun" hole supposed to be where the lower window channel is bolted?

 

[wngrog]

Is that "shotgun" hole supposed to be where the lower window channel is bolted?

View attachment 2188323

Yep. I like the idea of the shotgun slug or
Steel tooth rat better.

The window rolls up and down nicely on that side so I’m likely not going to mess with it because the damn inner panels are glued on with some stuff. I think it’s weatherstrip Glue.

That’s what I was using the Goof Off to clean. It had large drips down the door.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

When I first agreed to give the truck a baseline and tune (funny), I had seen where John had mentioned that he did not like the KOs and was going to get KM3s.

I quickly messaged him and asked if he had purchased tires yet. He said no and I went into my rant about how tiny 33x10.50-15’s are and would he be open to another style and size.

With a 4 speed and 4.11s you want all the rubber overdrive you can get and seeing that the KM3 measures out 30.5” tall on a Cruiser wheel I suggested he get gray City Racer 16” replica wheels like I run on my 40 and 45 as well as my favorite MTs .... Yokohama G003 MTs in 255/85-16

@wct49 ordered these oddballs up for me and mounted them today

Beautiful. 32.5” tall and 9” wide. I run them on my 60 and 40 and they are superb tires

Yokos and Toyos come with this cool little dot that, if you line it up with the valve stem you can get the best balance with the least amount of weight. 49T was able to keep what little weight they needed on the inside of the wheel as well.



View attachment 2184038





View attachment 2184042

love that tire/rim combo. If I didn’t have almost new tires on my 55 I would change them out now.

I did some reading on the red and yellow dots. Very interesting. Advice seemed to be though that the red dot should be aligned with the valve stem if you have both yellow and red dots. Not an expert and just repeating what I read. I’m sure it doesn’t make much if any difference.

 

[wngrog]

love that tire/rim combo. If I didn’t have almost new tires on my 55 I would change them out now.

I did some reading on the red and yellow dots. Very interesting. Advice seemed to be though that the red dot should be aligned with the valve stem if you have both yellow and red dots. Not an expert and just repeating what I read. I’m sure it doesn’t make much if any difference.

Well, not exactly the way Yokohama recommends it.

Yellow dot to valve stem.

Red for uniformity style mount.

I have 3 sets done via the dots. A set of Maxxis done by the dots and a set of Toyos done the same way. All took way less weight than BFGs who apparently are too cool to use the system the others use

Tire Match Mounting and Balancing | Yokohama Tire

the yellow mark on the tire, indicating the point of lightest weight, should be aligned with the valve stem on the wheel assembly, which represents the heaviest weight point of the wheel assembly. After match-mounting by either of the above methods, the tire/wheel assembly can be balanced.

www.yokohamatire.com

 

[wngrog]

Had to do my occupation today but I snatched a few hours after work in the shop.

I fixed the stabilizer. Checked all the rest of my trucks. Luckily this was the only goof.

I then did a shop/tape measure alignment and got the steering wheel straight. Hopefully it’s on.

Next I dove into this 8274 that Lockwood must have drunk dialed by searching for a Warren Wench.

I’m not sure how people get this much grease on these things.

 

[jomelo]

Next I dove into this 8274 that Lockwood must have drunk dialed by searching for a Warren Wench.

That’s exactly how it happened.

 

[middlecalf]

Seems appropriate that there's a Warn(ing) on a Warren Wench.

 

[wngrog]

Not much happening on this old girl till this weekend but a nice piece of the puzzle arrived home today. The local car flip joint in town installed the @Cruiser Corps headliner. Looks good. WAY better than the one I did on Project Patina

 

[wngrog]

Got the alternator back from Mosley. Art.

Also picked up the current throttle cable bracket he’s selling. This way works great and it’s simple to adjust.

I got both installed.

TPS is set good

96% is wide open. I’ll tweak a bit just for fun but the butterflies are open. Pedal is super smooth. One thing that you want to make sure is that the pedal itself is stopping on the floor or bump stop and you are not pulling the cable with the weight of your foot 1/2”
From the floor.

Reused the hard line bracket to keep this guy from flopping about.

Here is a pic of the complete engine bay. I’m super stoked. It’s all done under here.

Fuel pump parts arrived. That’s next.

 

[wngrog]

Got the ignition switch from @ToyotaMatt

As he said, that was the fix. Easy button