Builds 1978 FJ40 Mustard Yellow - almost perfect thread.

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Glamour shot.
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Powder guy got back with a great match
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got the “Warren Wench” hooked up. Not sure why the PO has to take it completely apart to ship it but he did. Master pull line installed.
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Any idea how this thing works? The round thing is threaded but the pin is not
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As for the pin above....you just smack it in with a hammer. Got it.
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I got up before dawn and headed an hour away and grabbed some rusted tin for my new shop sides. Unloading it was way easier than loading it.
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By 9 am I was looking at Mustard 78 and trying to pick a direction.

I put some tub gaskets on then decided to get the top ready to reinstall while I have my son here to help me lift it up there.
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The top was still in the condition the owner food the truck in except maybe a wash. It was (and still is) pretty deeply stained.

I started off with a pretty good CLR scrub. This type paint can take a pretty good rub because there is no clear to scratch.

I broke out my tools of the “Preserving Patina” trade and went to town.

CLR......water to remove

Quick Shine to clean

Yellow correction compound

Wax........this is such a huge step.The paint will look awesome after you polish it and wipe it off. Seems silly to repeat that step huh? Yeah, tons of 1/2 asses skip it and the paint is unprotected and dull in a couple weeks.

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Is that "shotgun" hole supposed to be where the lower window channel is bolted?
:beer::steer:
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And I could not get this post out of my head so I tosssd the passenger door up on the sawhorses and I heard this piece rattling around.

Had to fix.

After I fixed that and coated the bottoms of the doors and all the moving parts with Fluid Film I cleaned the metal and added a big patch of Noico inside the doors. This stuff really does wonders in these tin can trucks

Also I went ahead and polished and waxed the doors. They were really dull.

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Driver door next. It was sticking. The fat new door gasket may have fixed it but I had them out so I went ahead and put a new latch on. The main pin was hammered.
Getting the lock bar on sucks. That is all.

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Amby doors. I worked on these pretty hard but the scratches are deep. It’s fine for this truck but just keep in mind, the CLR/Scotchbrite on paint like this should be very gently done if at all

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Final push. I’m done. Top is secured. The OEM gasket from Beno showed up today just in time. Only broke one bolt out of the 2000 this job takes.

New light with LED via @Racer65

Bolt kit is nice.

Ive managed to avoid tackling the in-tank pump all day. Next week I have to bite off this job so this thing can make noise.

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Can you explain this stuff? I love pointers on old school stuff like this... is this for ensuring paper gaskets keep a proper seal?

Think if it as RTV lite.

I swirl the inside of all water hoses with it.

dab a bit on vacuum leak prone gaskets.

To me it’s like, why not....
 
I dreamed about this thing last night.

Bit the bullet and started this am before my son’s Eagle Project.

It was not as bad as I thought. Air cutoff wheel and a shop Vac pulling any fumes that we’re left.....

I did not die.

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I cleaned up the tank and hit the surface rust with Rust Converter.

The tank will get some paint and some Noico to make sure the pump is nice and quiet.

Mocked up the AN stuff. Had to quit.

Lined up a date Wednesday with the Tig master @nvrlose54 at Shaw Fab to burn it in.

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Eagle project compete. 10 years of this part of my life winding down....made it before he got his drivers Licence.

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Got them sorted out and got back on the pump. This is a nice setup. I’m still partial to the PowerSurge but there is zero room for one under this hood. You would have to lose the Overflow/Washer setup and that’s too sweet.

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These hoses are just mocked up for length. They will get high pressure Earl’s hose clamps. These EZ push on Earl’s fittings are the absolute best. Love them.
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This square recessed plate is necessary to keep the fittings from hitting the bottom of the stock seats

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This is what the Walbro pump setup looks like under the fittings.
 
I’ve had the truck up on jack stands to have a bit more room under there to work the fuel line routing.

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I ripped out the old inline setup and ran all new 3/8” rubber lines. Always use HIGH pressure rated fuel lines and high rated hose clamps. This system operates at 65 psi, not the standard 6 psi of the OEM system. Same goes with the fuel filter. I learned that the hard way on my AFI equipped motor and it runs about 2/3 less pressure than a sniper.
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This is a damn nice filter and mount.
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As you can see above I did not use the stock 5/16” hard lines. I ran the new lines inside the frame where, for now, they rest nicely on a bed of Oregon dried mud. 😄

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Last thing I did for the day was used the JimC approved method of terminating a dead fuel bung. Vacuum caps won’t last.

5/16” fuel line. Hose clamps and an 8mm bolt.

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Eagle project compete. 10 years of this part of my life winding down....made it before he got his drivers Licence.

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Got them sorted out and got back on the pump. This is a nice setup. I’m still partial to the PowerSurge but there is zero room for one under this hood. You would have to lose the Overflow/Washer setup and that’s too sweet.

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These hoses are just mocked up for length. They will get high pressure Earl’s hose clamps. These EZ push on Earl’s fittings are the absolute best. Love them.
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This square recessed plate is necessary to keep the fittings from hitting the bottom of the stock seats

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This is what the Walbro pump setup looks like under the fittings.

Congrats from a fellow Eagle Scout who got mine before driving as well.
 
I have to take notes, being single and my projects is enough...I can't imagine mixing in a wife, kids and honey-do list. Truck is coming along nicely 👌
 
Nolan, I may have missed it but is that the Mosley in tank set up for the fuel pump? If not who makes it?

Thanks,
Rob
 

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