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Nice centre console ! don't forget the coffee holder !
Events/Trails 1969 FJ40 w/ Turbo Diesel + AWD... and Other Stuff
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- Thread starter
- #22
Not to worry, the coffee has been thought of.
I'm in the middle of mocking something up right now and need some help. I have a 1969 that obviously didn't come with a roll bar but I'm trying to fit one in. Where exactly should it sit? The picture below is my best guess...
And while its on my mind, does anyone know where I can buy a pair or inner OEM roll bar brackets? Turns out the dude I bought the roll bar from didn't give them to me. Roll bar is from a 1974.
PS. the roll bar will not be staying metallic red..
I'm in the middle of mocking something up right now and need some help. I have a 1969 that obviously didn't come with a roll bar but I'm trying to fit one in. Where exactly should it sit? The picture below is my best guess...
And while its on my mind, does anyone know where I can buy a pair or inner OEM roll bar brackets? Turns out the dude I bought the roll bar from didn't give them to me. Roll bar is from a 1974.
PS. the roll bar will not be staying metallic red..
- Thread starter
- #23
Got the rear seats 2/3 done today. I'm going with the Land Rover Discovery 2 jump set setup as seen here... Land Rover jumps seats . There are a couple reasons for this. The truck only came with one jump seat; it was bent up; they're bloody expensive to find a good condition set; I wanted something safer (i.e. forward facing and 3-point seat belts); lastly, these things tuck away nicely.
So on with it..
I wanted to improve on a few things from the mentioned thread which some should notice as I go. I started with bending up a 16ga plate to create a vertical plane for the seats to bolt to (like they do in the Land Rover). Then I welded in 3/16" supports, drilled and tacked in place.
After I could bolt it up I cut the swing out arms and added 40mm of 3/4" tube welded it all back together.
So on with it..
I wanted to improve on a few things from the mentioned thread which some should notice as I go. I started with bending up a 16ga plate to create a vertical plane for the seats to bolt to (like they do in the Land Rover). Then I welded in 3/16" supports, drilled and tacked in place.
After I could bolt it up I cut the swing out arms and added 40mm of 3/4" tube welded it all back together.
- Thread starter
- #24
When I bought the Land Rover seats the guy I got them from was nice enough to let me have the factory floor mounting point. These required some reworking to make everything work seamlessly so I added 10mm of 16ga steel to get the bracket to sit higher and catch the jump seat leg. This was all bent by hand with some pliers, welded the seam and ground down. You can see the difference between the original and the "new one".
Thats it for now, more to come.
Thats it for now, more to come.
Great work, following.
nice work, following as well
- Thread starter
- #27
Alrighty... its been awhile but the rear seats are done.
On the Land Rover Disco seats there is an overly complicated swing out leg to secure the seat to the floor (i.e. the brackets pictured in the last post). I wanted to keep the functionality of this system but adapting it to the 40 was challenging as you will see...
I started with chopping up the seat leg and extending it 105mm to reach the floor. Then in order for the legs to collapse, the square tube leg had to be removed and replaced with a 50mm spacer (3/4" tube).
On the Land Rover Disco seats there is an overly complicated swing out leg to secure the seat to the floor (i.e. the brackets pictured in the last post). I wanted to keep the functionality of this system but adapting it to the 40 was challenging as you will see...
I started with chopping up the seat leg and extending it 105mm to reach the floor. Then in order for the legs to collapse, the square tube leg had to be removed and replaced with a 50mm spacer (3/4" tube).
- Thread starter
- #28
Next, I wanted to get rid of the weird twist handle on the seat and replace it with a simple trigger - this releases the catch on the leg. Then I just added a front leg to rest against the floor.
- Thread starter
- #29
Then after all of that it was time to do it all over again for the other side...
Next, I used the original mechanism to lock the seats into storage position by bending a 3/8" solid rod and mounting between the roll bar with nutserts and little tabs I welded on. Originally I used 1/4" solid rod but there was too much flex and the seats would have bounced around
while driving.
The last pic you can see the finished floor mounts for the seats. The little ones in front were welded to the floor, while the much larger ones on the back are bolted down and sit right on top of the rear bed support brace.
Next, I used the original mechanism to lock the seats into storage position by bending a 3/8" solid rod and mounting between the roll bar with nutserts and little tabs I welded on. Originally I used 1/4" solid rod but there was too much flex and the seats would have bounced around
while driving.
The last pic you can see the finished floor mounts for the seats. The little ones in front were welded to the floor, while the much larger ones on the back are bolted down and sit right on top of the rear bed support brace.
Last edited:
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So when u removed the square tube and put a spacer, doesn't that kill the legs from automatically folding down? Not that that is a big deal just trying to understand what u did. I was afraid to disable the folding mechanism, because I thought stuff would rattle when folded up. However it looks like the extended leg/latch is securely pinched so it won't rattle when folded up...am I right? I'm glad someone else did this, and I'm glad u improved the way the seats mount and fold.
brilliant
kinda disappointing that the 69 in your very 1st pic, with that nice patina on the hood was a bit of a mirage ... love your creativity ... looking fwd to updates and the phoenix that rises from the ashes so to speak ...
- Thread starter
- #33
The seats still retain there auto folding functionality by the arm (circled in yellow). This arm still pushes and pulls the leg when folding. With the original square leg it just articulated by a spring and didn't do anything for the folding mechanics, just followed. So the spacer (circled in orange) keeps the seat components in place and replaces the square leg so it wouldn't be in the way. As far as storing the leg securely, theres push pin (circled in red) that locks the legs to the seat frame - so no rattles. I can take better pics when I'm back at home.
Thanks! I try.
kinda disappointing that the 69 in your very 1st pic, with that nice patina on the hood was a bit of a mirage ... love your creativity ... looking fwd to updates and the phoenix that rises from the ashes so to speak ...
To be honest I was really looking forward to restoring the truck to the way it rolled out of the factory. But when I found all the damage, non original drivetrain and misc. hack jobs I got excited by the fact I could guiltlessly make it what I want.
- Thread starter
- #34
Time to update..
Unfortunately, with work and the holidays I haven't been able to tackle the big projects like I wanted to so I've been focusing on smaller tasks that can be done in a day or two. Something I'm really proud of how they turned out was the rear jump seat seat belts. I mentioned before the guy i picked up the seats from gave me the Land Rover seat belts and heres what I did with them..
I copied the factory roll bar mount for the front with a piece of 3" square tube (0.125" wall). Then designed the 2nd point mount, I initially wanted a low profile tab to hang in the corner of the roll bar. But after reading up on how 3 point seatbelt should be mounted went with this to get the right height across the shoulder.
Lastly, welded on 7/16" fine thread (global standard for seat belt bolts).
Unfortunately, with work and the holidays I haven't been able to tackle the big projects like I wanted to so I've been focusing on smaller tasks that can be done in a day or two. Something I'm really proud of how they turned out was the rear jump seat seat belts. I mentioned before the guy i picked up the seats from gave me the Land Rover seat belts and heres what I did with them..
I copied the factory roll bar mount for the front with a piece of 3" square tube (0.125" wall). Then designed the 2nd point mount, I initially wanted a low profile tab to hang in the corner of the roll bar. But after reading up on how 3 point seatbelt should be mounted went with this to get the right height across the shoulder.
Lastly, welded on 7/16" fine thread (global standard for seat belt bolts).
- Thread starter
- #35
Here's the finished product..
- Thread starter
- #36
Time for the front seat belts. I went with the 3 point seat belts from Cruiser Corps (Part No. 528-104). Good quality system but my only complaint is that the "PRESS" button is just a sticker - for $185 (US) I expected a proper plastic button that won't wear out as fast. But oh well..
Mounting the seat belts was very easy, just read the instructions and bolt it up. That said, I wanted a prettier bracket for the shoulder point so I made my own out of 3/16" plate. Just whipped out the plasma cutter, ground down the edges and drilled some holes. The buckle was conveniently just long enough to reach from the passenger seat frame, so I welded in 2 brackets (3/16" plate) to bolt them up.
Mounting the seat belts was very easy, just read the instructions and bolt it up. That said, I wanted a prettier bracket for the shoulder point so I made my own out of 3/16" plate. Just whipped out the plasma cutter, ground down the edges and drilled some holes. The buckle was conveniently just long enough to reach from the passenger seat frame, so I welded in 2 brackets (3/16" plate) to bolt them up.
- Thread starter
- #37
This should mean 4 relatively safe humans..
very nice work.
will you be running a hard top at all? if so, wont the top of the rear seat belt mounts affect the roof?
will you be running a hard top at all? if so, wont the top of the rear seat belt mounts affect the roof?
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you. And I will be definitely running the hardtop, there is lots of clearance from the mounts to the sides and won't be any issue for the roof.
