100 Series Diesel Stop Solenoid Problem

[brett0004]

A mate has a 98 model 100 series fitted with a 1HZ diesel and we cant get diesel past the pump, we suspect it is the fuel cut solenoid, we hear a faint noise when it is powered up but not a distinct click like you should. we think that it is not being powered from the immobiliser, it is a 3 wire solenoid, ground, power, and signal from the immobiliser, does anybody know how to bypass the immobiliser so we can test the solenoid, we dont know if the signal wire should be grounded or powered and we dont want to cook anything. The pump has just been overhauled so the solenoid should be ok but we want to check. if the immobiliser is faulty he may just bypass it. cheers Brett

 

[roscoFJ73]

I have run a wire straight from the + battery during a engine install and it worked.The factory manual suggests this if the solenoid or its power supply is in doubt.
The solenoid is earthed through the pump.

 

[brett0004]

Rosco, is the solenoid you are talking about the 3 wire type that gets a signal from the immobilizer or just a 2 or 1 wire type that is easily powered up. what I dont know is what signal goes down the immobilizer wire, is it 12v, ground, or an electronic pulse? Then I can isolate the problem to the immobilizer module or the solenoid. I might give Berrima Diesel in Sydney a call. cheers.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Rosco, is the solenoid you are talking about the 3 wire type that gets a signal from the immobilizer or just a 2 or 1 wire type that is easily powered up. what I dont know is what signal goes down the immobilizer wire, is it 12v, ground, or an electronic pulse? Then I can isolate the problem to the immobilizer module or the solenoid. I might give Berrima Diesel in Sydney a call. cheers.

My solenoid is only a one wire type that is activated by 12V from the ignition relay.
I cant be certain if you have the same solenoid as mine. It maybe something fitted to later models or by whoever fitted the immobiliser.

I have a Gregorys manual which goes up till 99 in the 75 series and 98 in the 80 series and it makes no mention of a change to the solenoid from 12V

Maybe you could test the single wire to solenoid for voltage or
compare it to a older 1HZ .

Is your vehicle a 100 or 105 series STD ?

 

[brett0004]

thats the problem, its a later model that has a factory fitted immobilizer, like I said the 3rd wire comes from the immobilizer and I am asking does anyone know what kind of signal goes down this wire so we can prove if it is the solenoid faulty or the module.

 

[brett0004]

Fixed it!!!!! well got around it anyway, the black box on the back of the injector pump is just an interface between the mobilizer and the solenoid. We removed the black box and the solenoid is underneath with one power wire coming out, so we hurled the black box down the paddock and powered up the solenoid direct, and hey presto one working 100 series.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I have found the HD-Ts have the three wires, two for the tach and the single wire for the solenoid.

Good to hear you got her running and a big welcome to mud......

 

[roscoFJ73]

Fixed it!!!!! well got around it anyway, the black box on the back of the injector pump is just an interface between the mobilizer and the solenoid. We removed the black box and the solenoid is underneath with one power wire coming out, so we hurled the black box down the paddock and powered up the solenoid direct, and hey presto one working 100 series.

Which kind of makes the immobiliser worthless in the 1st place

 

[brett0004]

Yes I dont think it would stop an experienced thief, it is part of that smart key system, Ill have to look at the one on my 1HD FTE to see if it is the same, I expect it is. cheers thanks for the input.