100 Series Centre Diff Lock and Hazard Lights PCB (1 Viewer)

[Mafroew]

G'day everyone,

I've done a fair bit of searching - both on the net and through the factory service manual but haven't had any luck.

I've got a 1998 GXL 100 series and have been having issues with the centre diff lock. I'm pretty certain its the circuit board with the CDL switch on it, in particular the component with three legs ( I believe its a transistor or a fet of some sort - NPN PNP? who knows).

I've ordered a new board which hopefully will be here tomorrow, however, I reckon to fix the old one would only cost about 80 cents from jaycar, if I just knew what the part was.

So if anybody has any idea as to what it is, I'd greatly appreciate it if you'd share!

Cheers,

Matt

 

[uHu]

If the three-legged thingy is a semiconductor, as you suspect, it will have a number which reveals what it is. Unless it is a specialized t0yota part.

What makes you believe that part is the problem?

 

[Mafroew]

uHU,

The 'three-legged thingy' is what I'm talking about. The reason I suspect that is it is because when I push the button in, the diff lock will engage, but when it released (clicked back out) the diff lock will not disengage. After spending a couple of hours looking at the circuit diagram for the relay board, I managed to drive the actuator back out by shorting pins 3 and 9 together.

Basically whats happening is, there's two pins on the relay board which control the direction of the actuator. Engaging the centre diff lock button puts 12V on pin 6 (4wd on schematic) and 0V on pin 3 (2wd), however, when the button is depressed, there's 0V on 4wd and 0V on 2wd (instead of 0V on 4wd and 12V on 2wd).

I've tried to reverse engineer the PCB which the swich is actually connected to. I can see a 0/12V change on one of the wires on the engagement of the button, however, anything that is connected to the 'three legged thingy' doesn't change (ie. there is no 12/0V change on the other pin). My guess is that the component is used to either sink or source current (i'm assuming sink) so that I get the opposite 12/0V to drive the motor the other way. Unfortunately, googling the number which is printed on it didn't come up with anything and no manuals make any reference to the actual schematics/logic behind the PCB's.

Attached is a copy of the schematic from a 2004 cruiser, however, I have since found out that it is slightly incorrect. There is no reference to pin 7 (low range selector switch).

In summary, the relay board is functioning correctly, but the signals getting to it aren't.

 

[uHu]

Sounds like you are on to something then...

Here's the scematics for the 1998.1 to 2000.9 RHD (presuming RHD since it is a GX?).

Since you have ordered the switch pcb, I suppose you will have the answer soon; but anyhow, what's the number on the transistor thingy?

 

[NMuzj100]

A picture would help those of us who wish we knew more about electronics.

A transistor usually has "three legs".

But in the diagram they look more like relays. Relays have moving parts and might be more prone to failure.

Update: And they are clearly labeled Rel1 and Rel2.

Relays - Operation and Testing

 

[Jamsy]

Hi, im new to the forum, I've got a 100 series 4.2 diesel and having CDL problems.

The centre diff is stuck on, ive removed the front prop so I can still use it for the time being.

When I function the CDL button on the dash it doesn't do anything and I don't hear the relay click. The relay does work though as I removed it and checked it.
The fuses are also ok.
Im thinking it could be the dash switch. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[LS2Cruiser105]

G'day everyone,

I've done a fair bit of searching - both on the net and through the factory service manual but haven't had any luck.

I've got a 1998 GXL 100 series and have been having issues with the centre diff lock. I'm pretty certain its the circuit board with the CDL switch on it, in particular the component with three legs ( I believe its a transistor or a fet of some sort - NPN PNP? who knows).

I've ordered a new board which hopefully will be here tomorrow, however, I reckon to fix the old one would only cost about 80 cents from jaycar, if I just knew what the part was.

So if anybody has any idea as to what it is, I'd greatly appreciate it if you'd share!

Cheers,

Matt

I'm having the same issue Matt, what did you find in the end?

 

[BillZ260]

Moved to more relevant thread.