My custom aluminum trailer - pics and tech

I just found this forum - I think it's a GREAT resource. There isn't a lot of tech info available for those interested in off-roading a trailer. I've made a fair number of posts in the 80 Series Forum in the past - you can do a search by user name - but I thought it would be good to post a few pics and a link to my personal webpage. There are many pics of the trailer in the My Vehicles section, and there is also a page devoted just to the trailer. The Treg coupler info might be of interest to some, but unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, there is no longer a USA importer for these fine off-road couplers. If anyone knows differently, please let me know!

http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/









As you can see, it's versatile and easily converted from a bicycle/ camping gear travel rig to a motorcycle trailer, and I have hauled a yard of dirt, 2200 pounds of rock pavers, furniture, plants and other home stuff in it from time to time. I wish it were a little bit wider (I can't get a sheet of plywood to lie flat, due to a miscommunication with the builder) and a little longer (I didn't anticipate needing to carry a motorcycle - I would like to be able to install the tailgate with the bike loaded), but otherwise it fits my needs very well indeed. I use it constantly, except in the winters.... because the road deicers eat up the aluminum.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Your trailer looks great. I really like that.
I am looking for hardcore off road trailer but more utility trailer for camping and hauling stuff for home improvement project.

So the aluminum got coroded by the deicer? It almost beat the purpose of getting aluminum trailer in the first place.

My ideal setup are just like you and bed size that would fit 4x8' building material and probaby a bowed tongue for greater break over angle.

Do you mind letting us know how much that set you back? I am trying to set budget for this kind of trailer.
I am trying to find somebody more local to the Midwest to buit this for me.

Your custom trailer look awesome.

I have modified my M416 with welder to add tailgate and fender protector. But I have always want a "alum" trailer so I decided to welded some alum scraps with alum welding set-up for dry run. Boy, that was a totally different approach from the steel welding.

What kind of deicer do they used locally?

Cheers,

Augie said:

Do you mind letting us know how much that set you back? I am trying to set budget for this kind of trailer.
I am trying to find somebody more local to the Midwest to buit this for me.

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When I had the trailer built about four years ago, the bare bones version with no brakes, hard lid, LED lights or other goodies was US$1400, which was about $400 above the cost of a similar US built steel utility trailer. The aluminum raises the price quite a bit over steel, but the builder is located on a remote part of Vancouver Island BC, where the shop overhead is extremely low. And he churns out these trailers in very large quantities. He goes through two large flatbed semis worth of aluminum each week!

The options added up fast - I figure the total is right around $3000 invested. That includes the bolt-in aluminum channel motorcycle rail, but not the Yakima racks and bars. I did a lot of the work myself, including the spring-over conversion, wiring, and rear bumper.

I consider it money well spent - it is a great trailer, though it isn't really tough enough for serious off-road abuse, and it attracts attention like you would not believe. One guy pulled up to a red light at a busy intersection, put his truck in Park and ran over to where I was stopped in a grocery store lot. He asked me "Where DID you get that trailer!!??" I told him that if he moved his truck to a safe spot I would talk with him. And I did, for about 20 minutes.

I have lost count of the number of 30 minute conversations I have done with total strangers. My wife is extremely amused by this Guy Behavior.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Snook said:

What kind of deicer do they used locally?

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http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Regions/NorthCentral/news/2004/Nov19_NCentralRegionUpdate.htm

QUOTE:
Salt
WSDOT continues to test rock salt and salt brine on two sections of I-90 (Ellensburg to Vantage and Moses Lake to Ritzville). The test is determining where and under what conditions salt could be a better, more economical alternative to other anti icers. The corrosion testing uses metal “coupons” attached to WSDOT trucks used exclusively for application of each kind of anti icer, deicer and sand. Comparisons are made between rock salt (sodium chloride), magnesium chloride and calcium chloride on different metals. The last two winter’s study suggests that laboratory results don’t always match what happens in the “real world”. Some anti icers didn’t corrode steel as badly as salt, but they appeared more corrosive on aluminum. Corrosion-inhibited rock salt is being tested this winter. www.wsdot.wa.gov/maintenance/salt.htm

Deicer
“Clear Lane” is the solid corrosion-inhibited deicer in use this winter, replacing “Ice Slicer” used last winter. “We use it the same way. It’s applied on accumulations of snow and ice to break it up and provide additional traction while it’s working,” said Bierschbach. WSDOT also continues to use sand.

Anti-icer
The liquid anti icer that crews here apply to dry roads before weather events to stop ice crystals from bonding with the pavement is called Geomelt-C. It is a mixture of Calcium Chloride and an anti-corrosion agent made from sugar cane. Calcium Chloride is a chemical salt that is also applied to apple and pear trees in north central Washington to promote bud development – you also see it on food labels such as pickles. As opposed to liquids used the first two years of the program that contained an anti-corrosion agent made from corn whey, Geomelt-C is less concentrated (reducing corrosion potential), has little “smell”, is easier to wash off and is also slightly less shiny, reducing complaints that “it looks like black ice.” Concentration on the road surface is what determines the effectiveness of anti icers. (NOTE – City and County road crews in the region use different anti icing chemicals and application methods.)
UNQUOTE

I'm unclear about exactly what the City of Spokane sprays on the streets, but I can say from first hand experience that it EATS aluminum, even if it is protected with a heavy coat of wax. If I do have to pull the trailer in winter, I make the trips very brief and wash the entire trailer ASAP. I went through a couple of shallow puddles on the street early in Spring before all the deicer was completely gone, and it TRASHED a brand new set of Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels within a couple of days. Pics are here:

http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/page4h.htm

I hate deicers with a passion - they also destroy concrete driveways and contaminate the carpets in your vehicles and house. Nasty!

John Davies
Spokane WA

That's why I moved out of Rochester, NY 20 years ago!

Did you add this extra long flaps in rear tire and did it performed as you expected? Three stainless steel bolts? Not easy or quick removeable?

Cheers,

Snook said:

That's why I moved out of Rochester, NY 20 years ago!

Did you add this extra long flaps in rear tire and did it performed as you expected? Three stainless steel bolts? Not easy or quick removeable?

Cheers,

Click to expand...

Yep, they are very thin mudflap material, attached with 3 stainless 10/24 screws with self locking nuts. They are not QD because they don't need to be - they flex just fine off road, and I have never (yet) had them wad up against the tire. If I ever got to a real hard core trail like the Rubicon the entire flaps would come off - extensions and all before I even aired down.

They are effective, but not 100% - I still have to wash lots of gravel out of the recesses of the trailer after a long day in a National Forest....

Here is a little more info:

http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/page4g.htm

John Davies
Spokane WA

John,

Thanks for the info. I just check their page and they list a 4x8 standard utility for $2190 with 3000 lbs axle. Thats pretty decent price. just have to figure how much shipping would cost for it to Ohio.

Augie said:

John,

Thanks for the info. I just check their page and they list a 4x8 standard utility for $2190 with 3000 lbs axle. Thats pretty decent price. just have to figure how much shipping would cost for it to Ohio.

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Their prices are Canadian, eh? That's US$1929, but don't forget duty fees. It sure seems like the Canadian dollar bought a lot less a few years back - when did it come up so close to the US dollar?

Forget the truck freight - drive out to BC and tow that sucker home. Better yet, watch it being built. That is SO cool, but some of the things those trailer mechanics do makes me shudder.....

Seriously - the scenery on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands is out of this world stunning, especially if you have never been to the Pacific Northwest. Imagine watching orcas from the ferry boat. That is one of my Most Favorite Places anywhere, though I wouldn't want to live there. Here's where the trailers are made:

http://www.parksvillebc.com/

John Davies
Spokane WA

Thanks John, I enjoyed reading about your cool trailer

John Great trailer!

What are the rough dimensions of your cargo box and what is your overall length from tailgate to reciever hitch?

Thanks, great looking stuff.

Rezarf <><

The more I think about it, the design of this trailer is almost spot on for what I would want (the box height would be a bit taller on mine - 2.5 ft.

Somewhat similar to - http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTrailerPlans1.htm

The only problem I have is that I am in California. Anyone know of anyone in the Bay Area that builds custom stuff (Aluminimun or Power Coated Steel)? I have a trip to mexico this fall and really need something like this....Anyone in Canada heading down to California?

-Jack

REZARF said:

John Great trailer!

What are the rough dimensions of your cargo box and what is your overall length from tailgate to reciever hitch?

Thanks, great looking stuff.

Rezarf <><

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The box is a little undersized due to a mis-communication with the builder. I wanted to be able to carry a 4x8 sheet of plywood flat with the tailgate removed, and the builder screwed that up by putting the internal framework at the tailgate too close together (44 inches).

The basic box dimensions are 4x6 ft with a 20 inch box height. The lid adds another 4 inches. Rubbermaid black and gray latching storage bins fit perfectly inside, as planned. Overall length is 10 feet with the tongue retracted. If I were going to do the traler over, I would go a little longer (seven foot box) so I could carry my motorcycle without removing the tailgate. I would go to a 24 inch box height since it seems a little cramped with full tent camping gear and supplies. Some extra height would allow you to lay folding chairs or other long or soft items on top of the cargo boxes, rather than alongside. And I would make d@mned sure I could carry sheet goods flat...

John Davies
Spokane WA

What kind of hitch is that, and what kind of articulation will it take? I have a regular ball type, and it has popped off a few times on the trail, and stabbed my tailgate.
I was looking to get a pintle hitch...

Nevermind...just found some more info on your page.