Whoah! what's with this LSPV arm shape? (1 Viewer)

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Yeah I searched for 20 mins hoping to find info with a photo - the FSM helps to but I is a very dry read...

I have read that some folks bend it to get something more out of it

I am thinking of lengthing the rod ( re design) 'cause I dont think I can get it where it needs to be
 
I lowered mine 4mm (calc for 2.5") but there was still plenty of room to slide the valve down. Pretty sure you should be able to do enough for 4" there if you wish.
 
I slid the valve down and used up all the threads - my rear brakes are still grabbing slightly hard - I am going to wait until I have the 80 loaded with the rest of the weight then do a proper balance ;)
 
So you guys who slid the valve down, did you slide it down like in my picture? In that picture I slid it down as far as it would go.
 
Throckmorton is bent signifficantly to one side if I remember correctly. IE around the corner....
 
Darwood said:
So you guys who slid the valve down, did you slide it down like in my picture? In that picture I slid it down as far as it would go.
Click to expand...


yup - and I lifted the other end at the top of the threads - I am thinking of making your type of bracket to lift it up more at the axle - ( not so much that it hits the upper arm ;)
 
why do you need to move it so much?
if you believe the calcs, about 6mm at the body should be enough for a 4" lift...
 
it is not exactly about calcs - more how the vehicle operates - my rear brakes are still slightly grabbing harder than they should I want the option to be able to control the complete operating band
 
desertdude said:
it is not exactly about calcs - more how the vehicle operates - my rear brakes are still slightly grabbing harder than they should I want the option to be able to control the complete operating band
Click to expand...

yes, but could that be symptomatic of a problem?
 
e9999 said:
yes, but could that be symptomatic of a problem?
Click to expand...

not always.

I'm sure you know that what looks right on paper and what should work in theory, doesn't always work in reality.

That's why "tweakage" exists in the universe.
 
e9999 said:
yes, but could that be symptomatic of a problem?
Click to expand...

Nope - all new parts and properly installed

every vehicle is different - ( that is why it is adjustable) including vehicle weight and exact lift height - you can use the gauges to get a close ball park as per FSM - but in the end it is also about what the vehicle is actually doing based on the modifications

I wont get mine completely dialed in until I get all the rest of the added mod's on and some actual gear loaded in

Part science % art :)
 
desertdude said:
it is not exactly about calcs - more how the vehicle operates - my rear brakes are still slightly grabbing harder than they should I want the option to be able to control the complete operating band
Click to expand...
The reason for your rear brakes to be "grabbing harder than they should" is due to the fact that you have already overadjusted the valve.

Moving the valve down and raising the axle end of the rod up both result in increased rear brake pressure.
 
Thanks Rich - I did not find that to be the case before I started the adjustment - but i will check this out tomorrow and post back my findings -

( I would also like to get the gauges and use them to be sure of where I am at )
 
desertdude said:
Thanks Rich - I did not find that to be the case before I started the adjustment - but i will check this out tomorrow and post back my findings...
Click to expand...
I can offer assurance, based on your posting where you said that you have the valve lowered as far as it goes, and the other end of the rod raised to the top, that the rear brakes are now adjusted to the maxium possible pressure relative to the front brakes. Maxium, that is, with stock lspbv setup. You may have misinterpreted the instructions in the manual to mean the opposite of what was intended.
 
Rich - after re-reading the FSM ( except below)- I think you are right - I inverted the concepts with respect to the threaded rod- I will be out working on it today - with luck I can dial it in correctly

Eric - thanks for bringing this timely post up ;)

-------------------------

R05477 A 4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST FLUID PRESSURE

(a) Disconnect the No.2 shackle from the shackle bracket.

(b) Adjust the length of the No.2 shackle turning it.

Low pressure – Lengthen A.

High pressure – Shorten A

Initial set: 90 mm (3.54 in.) Adjusting range: 84 – 96 mm (3.31 – 3.78 in.)

HINT: One turn of the No.2 shackle changes the fluid pressure by about 98.1 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.2 psi).

(c) In event the pressure cannot be adjusted by No.2 shackle, raise or lower the valve body.

Low pressure – Lower

High pressure – Raise
 
The key to the manual is that when it say "low pressure" or "high pressure" it means "if your pressure is too low then lower the valve" and "if your pressure is too high then raise the valve". Similar for the rod adjustment. The manual is not well worded.
 
see, I thought there might be a problem. Didn't occur to me that the problem was -errr... well, you know, errr... the manual! phewwww.... :D

(so much for tweakage needed... :) )
 
Ha - The reason the holes are slotted and there is a threaded rod is so you "can" tweak it :idea:

I checked it out today - I "tweaked" it about halfway on the threaded rod and it is close -took it out for a test drive - a few more turns ( shorten "A") on the rod and I will be there :cool:

thanks for the help :cheers:
 
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