Steering Wheel Alignment

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LCphil

LCphil

Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Threads
14
Messages
122
Location
Alexandria, Virginia
I have searched the threads and found some information about this but related to hard wheeling. My truck has been on decent roads and hasn’t jumped any curbs.

I had the alignment done a couple weeks ago an now the steering wheel is cocked to the right. It's annoying and the first time this has ever happened.

Any thoughts? I have a feeling they didn't follow the correct procedure for aligning the truck.

Thanks for any input.
 
Are you sure you didn't hit anything. If the wheel is cocked to the right that means the drag link for all intensive purposes is shorter. It's pretty hard to do an alignment wrong on the 80. Pretty much a monkey with two adjustable wrenches can do it. You might want to check the locking bolts on the drag link to make sure they aren't loose. That's one thing a monkey might mess up on.
 
These shops do it wrong all the time. The rod in back of the wheels (tie rod) sets the "toe', which on your truck is your only alignment point. The front rod (relay rod) then adjusts the relationship between the steering wheel and the wheel direction. Most shops don't seem to spend much time on getting the steering wheel right....but its no biggie. Just take it back and have them loosen both clamps on the front relay rod with it sitting on the alignment machine aimed perfectly straight ahead. You sit in it and tell them when you are happy with the wheel, and they tighten down the clamps. Done.

P.S. I have never paid to have an alignment done an on an 80, I do it myself with a tape measure and set the steering wheel aligment myself. And I'm a dumbass Okie, so surely they can get it right.
 
did the alighnment meslf on my 62 recently (very similar to the 80) it was realy nice to save that $$$, setting the tow is a 2 man and a tape measure job, centering the wheel can be down by yourself,

sice you have already paid them bring it back and have it done right,

do check the splines between the pitman arm and steering box are straight up and down, they like the bend there and the result will be a wheel out of position.
 
I think I may have misread. So was the wheel crooked right after the alignment, or did this happen sometime later? If it was after the alignment the monkeys didn't adjust the drag link after they adjusted the toe. Any change in toe will change the orientation of the steering wheel. If this is the case, then yeah as others have stated take it back.
 
It was cocked to the right after the alignment. You're all right. They probably only adjusted the toe.

Usually they're great but this time.....

Thanks a lot.
 
Same thing happened to me a while back. I corrected at the steering wheel but that too was a mistake so I took it back and spoke to the owner. He made his workers do the job right and I had to remove my steering wheel correction myself.


Kalawang
 
Kalawang said:
Same thing happened to me a while back. I corrected at the steering wheel but that too was a mistake so I took it back and spoke to the owner. He made his workers do the job right and I had to remove my steering wheel correction myself.


Kalawang
Click to expand...
Thanks. This was Minerva. I guess they have their good and bad days. A word of warning though, there is a new guy working there he's tall, that's how you'll recognize him, he has no idea what he's doing.

I'll straighten the wheel myself tomorrow, maybe.

How's everything?

Steven
 
I finally got all my steering woes sorted.

It turns out the computeized front wheel alignment database does not have the correct specifications for my U.S. version 1997 Land Cruiser. Their computer for the Toyota FZJ80 is 1.8 mm (and probably also +/- 0.8 mm) which may be with the standard wheels and tires not the U.S. alloys.

I took the FSM with me to the garage. First I wanted the extra play in the steering sorted out and one of the possible causes as explained in the FSM is front wheel bearings. To eliminate that I had both front axles stripped and the bearings inspected. The axle and the bearings were perfect showing no wear.
Next I had the alignment adjusted to as per the FSM (SA 4) total toe of 2 mm +/- 0.8 to 2.6 mm.

Next we adjusted the steering wheel to the straight position in relation to the wheels.

Then we adjusted the play in the steering box slightly, which probably wasn’t necessary.

Now the car feels solid with no wandering over smooth pavement, no wander over rough pavement and the steering wheel sit solidly in my hands maintaining the truck in a straight line.
 
LCphil said:
I finally got all my steering woes sorted.

It turns out the computeized front wheel alignment database does not have the correct specifications for my U.S. version 1997 Land Cruiser. Their computer for the Toyota FZJ80 is 1.8 mm (and probably also +/- 0.8 mm) which may be with the standard wheels and tires not the U.S. alloys.

I took the FSM with me to the garage. First I wanted the extra play in the steering sorted out and one of the possible causes as explained in the FSM is front wheel bearings. To eliminate that I had both front axles stripped and the bearings inspected. The axle and the bearings were perfect showing no wear.
Next I had the alignment adjusted to as per the FSM (SA 4) total toe of 2 mm +/- 0.8 to 2.6 mm.

Next we adjusted the steering wheel to the straight position in relation to the wheels.

Then we adjusted the play in the steering box slightly, which probably wasn’t necessary.

Now the car feels solid with no wandering over smooth pavement, no wander over rough pavement and the steering wheel sit solidly in my hands maintaining the truck in a straight line.
Click to expand...


Good to know that you've got things sorted out. Nota Bene for you, it's a great asset that you have an FSM for your LC. That's a good thing to have and take good care of it. Our workers are willing to do the job, but they are mostly competent by experience and often have to guess at how things work because they can only learn by seeing it done or by trying to work it out. As your LC is not common to this place, your FSM will save you much grief if you keep it safe, handy and resort to it for every job.


Kalawang
 
Every time I lift mine higher in front, the steering wheel center moves further to the left. It's the same problem in reverse. The front link keeps getting effectively shorter, and the steering wheel center moves left.
The cure is the same. Drive on a level surface and stop without using the front brakes (use the parking brake at low speed). Then adjust the drag link until the wheel is centered. Repeat this a couple of times until you are happy.
 
Yes, by adjusting the drag linkage in front of the front differential, attached to the pitman arm and steering stabilizer. Very easy. Clock-wise adjusts the steering wheel from right to left and counter clock-wise adjusts the steering wheel from left to right.

So, if your steering wheel is cocked to the right i.e. you have to turn it to the left to make it straight, adjust the linkage above turning the link bar clock-wise.

If you have to remove the steering wheel to make it straight on any type of car there is something wrong in the steering, suspension or wheels and tires. Back up and find the problem, don't just fix the symptom.
 
i just installed some adjustable panhards and now my front wheel is cocked to the right. i can see the drag link and the clamps on the two ends. it appears the link is threaded. is this correct? and if so to correct i just turn one direction or the other? i tried the other night and it didnj't want to rotate real easily....
 
never mind. i got it. just had to get the channel locks on it and a tighter grip. a plumbers wrench would've been perfect. that and some wd40 on the threads on each end.
 
I'd like to DIY an alignment on my truck but have never done it before. Is it as simple as this to set the toe?

IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Do it yourself alignment/caster adjustment?

"You can align the 80 yourself. The only adjustment it has is toe in. I have mounted rims on the hubs then measured the side to side distance of the edges of the rims in front of the wheel and at the back of the wheel. Make the front measurment about 1/16-1/8 inch less than the rear by adjusting the tie rod. That's plenty close. Oversize tires like a bit more toe-in. The drag link is then adjusted to exactly center the steering wheel. This will get you so close, I doubt a tire shop can improve it much."

Where exactly is the drag link?
 
dammitjim said:
Make the front measurment about 1/16-1/8 inch less than the rear by adjusting the tie rod. That's plenty close. Oversize tires like a bit more toe-in.
Click to expand...

My questions is 1/16-1/8" measured dfference between front and rear where? Rotor, tire, que? Tires could be off a little front to rear for reference points. Larger tires would definitely need more of a difference as you are moving the reference points further apart. I need a little alignment action for my 37s, and I'll probably have to replace my hillbillied tie rod at the same time, so I just need to be clear on the target measurements and procedures.

Someone who has done this with bigger tires please chime in...
:cheers:
Nick
 
Yes it is that easy,
 
I did 1/8" on my 62 with 33's, measured on a piece of tape on the tread of the tire, a little trig will get you the right dimension for a 37" tire.
 
Atoyot1031 said:
My questions is 1/16-1/8" measured dfference between front and rear where? Rotor, tire, que? Tires could be off a little front to rear for reference points. Larger tires would definitely need more of a difference as you are moving the reference points further apart. I need a little alignment action for my 37s, and I'll probably have to replace my hillbillied tie rod at the same time, so I just need to be clear on the target measurements and procedures.

Someone who has done this with bigger tires please chime in...
:cheers:
Nick
Click to expand...

The stock spec is for the OD of the stock tire, so ~30". The tires may/probably have some run out, so jacking it up, spinning the tires and marking a line is a good idea.

My favorite method is to put the front axle on stands, remove the tires, get a couple of pieces of scrap (like angle iron, square tube or even straight wood) at least 30" long, mark the center and 15" out on each side, clamp them to the rotor/hub at the center mark and measure the distance between the marks at the front and behind the hub.

Most big tire rig like a little more toe-in, so may want to try a couple of settings to see what you like. Mine likes a hair over 1/8".
 
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