96 fj80 part number questions (1 Viewer)

[smritte]

I'm rebuilding my motor. The crank needed polishing, not turning, the deck needed milling due to heavy pitting and the cyl's only needed a quick hone.

Im getting ready to order my rings and bearings. I didn't grab the number off the block before it was decked. Looking at my manual and using the cross reference chart, I think I'm able to order some of them. That's when I got confused.
If someone can help me decode these, I would be grateful. I also need to know how to order my main bearings and rings without the block number.
Here's what I have.

Crank is stamped 2
Con Rod is stamped 2B
Piston is stamped 2

Bottom pic is rod bearing. I don't have mains anymore.

Scott

 

[smritte]

Ok Found block numbers. Was told it was on deck, it was under block.
I would like someone to confirm the bearing part numbers. I'm no too confident here.

Rods 13041-66020-4
Mains 11701-66031-4 (4 of those)
11701-66031-3 (3 of these)
Rings 13011-66021

I appreciate any help here, not sure if I did this right.

Block pic

Scott

 

[ccslider]

It would be best to plastigauge and see where you land.

Usually in the fsm it will tell you what bearings based on those stamp codes. If you polished the crank don't assume anything is correct until you plastigauge.

What happened to the engine that called for rebuild?

 

[smritte]

I understand about plastic gauge and I have a factory manual. My question is ordering correct parts. Cant plastic gauge until then. In my original post, I stated I dont have main bearings any more. Thus my question.
As for over haul...Didn't really want to post why I need to overhaul but here it is.
Loaned my 220k Cruiser to ex wife, she drove for 3 days, didn't tell me she smelled coolant from first day until motor locked up. I found an engine with 150k. Decided to reseal that before I put in. Prev. owner didn't like to change oil. He replaced head gasket and siliconed motor back together. Heavy pitting in front of #1 and #6 on deck, center crank bearings scored, head has .002 warp, oil is baked into parts from high heat, heavy rusting in block, broken ring on #1 piston. OH yea, the friggen MORON who did the half azed head gasket, took a disk sander to the block deck and chamfered the cyl's. Im sure there's a few things more that justified the rebuild.
The machine shop found the chamfer on the deck when they went to clean it up as well as the scratch from the broken ring.
What started out as a quick reseal and motor swap has turned into a rabbit hole. Now I'm rebuilding this and hoping for some advice from someone who understands the bearing chart before I order all my bearings.

Scott

 

[BILT4ME]

I understand about plastic gauge and I have a factory manual. My question is ordering correct parts. Cant plastic gauge until then. In my original post, I stated I dont have main bearings any more. Thus my question.
As for over haul...Didn't really want to post why I need to overhaul but here it is.
Loaned my 220k Cruiser to ex wife, she drove for 3 days, didn't tell me she smelled coolant from first day until motor locked up. I found an engine with 150k. Decided to reseal that before I put in. Prev. owner didn't like to change oil. He replaced head gasket and siliconed motor back together. Heavy pitting in front of #1 and #6 on deck, center crank bearings scored, head has .002 warp, oil is baked into parts from high heat, heavy rusting in block, broken ring on #1 piston. OH yea, the friggen MORON who did the half azed head gasket, took a disk sander to the block deck and chamfered the cyl's. Im sure there's a few things more that justified the rebuild.
The machine shop found the chamfer on the deck when they went to clean it up as well as the scratch from the broken ring.
What started out as a quick reseal and motor swap has turned into a rabbit hole. Now I'm rebuilding this and hoping for some advice from someone who understands the bearing chart before I order all my bearings.

Scott

The most accurate method is to do a micrometer on each rod journal and each main journal. Then you compare that measurement to factory stock specifications. That will tell you how many thousandths you need to be under from a measurement standpoint. Then you order them in and try them, but you install and use Plastigage. Typically I would order one set above and one set below (three sets total) on the bearings so I could make sure I have the correct ones to install when the time comes.

The machine shop SHOULD be able to tell you this info.

If all they did was polish the journals, then you would have only lost 0.001" to 0.002" but that doesn't tell you how much wear there was.

Obviously, you are trying to reduce your losses here and do the work yourself, but you need to enlist the professional information of the shop that's doing the machine work for you.

Check with @beno to get correct, accurate info as well as use him as a source for this type. Just buy the stuff from him if you use him. That's part of the service.

 

[smritte]

@BILT4ME Thank you for the reply. I have measured my crank and the numbers fall in the range specified by the stamping. I do all my own measuring, building and always check the numbers the machine shop gives. What I have not had to do is use a cross chart for my numbers and just wanted an opinion based on the info I supplied. I know I have to check the measurements once I have the bearings in hand. I'm hoping I don't have to order several sets of bearings so I get the right one and I most likely wont have to. You can never tell though.

Scott