zimms 76 work

[Zimm]

SEE POST 2 FOR POLL COMPUTATIONS....

EDIT: ORION IS OUT AS AN OPTION.



since im gonna have paul do most of the work bringing this thing up to snuff, i figure ill post some the communication and paul can post pics of the work if he likes here. nothing radical, but of possible interest to the group...

so...

ok paul, looking at the pricing on the split tcase gears, will it make more sence to go with the orion, the split case gears, or stock. those gears are more than double $$$$ what i figured..

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]AA716920 - 2.81:1 Low Range & 8% OD T/C Gears (34mm Idler) - $1395.00[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]AA716920UD - 3.05:1 Low Range & 8% UD T/C Gears (34mm Idler) - $1395.00[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]AA716921 - 2.81:1 Low Range & 8% OD T/C Gears (38mm Idler) - $1395.00[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1]AA716921UD - 3.05:1 Low Range & 8% UD T/C Gears (38mm Idler) - $1395.00[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1](Fits 8/80' - 1/90' FJ40, FJ60/62 & 70 Series Landcruisers ONLY with Split-Case)


and if you look, id rather not UD the h55f. whats the point of the OD if im gonna UD it?

the orion is 1650.


[/SIZE][/FONT]

 

[Zimm]

i did some computations.

here are the players....

the h55f, tires are 33's, both replacement t-case gears above(2.84/8%od and 3.05/8%ud), and as a wild card, a set of 3.7 3rds i have...

for example, my white 40 with an sm465 and 4.11's has...
CR of 61.2 and 65mph=2720rpm.

i like the CR but not the rpm at 65.

right now the red 76 has...
CR of 39.5 and 65mph=2284

A) combo of 2.81tcase w/4.11's
CR of 56 and 65mph=2102

B) combo of 2.81tcase w/3.7's
CR 50.5 and 65mph=1892

C) combo of 3.05tcase w/4.11's
CR 60 and 65mph=2497

D) combo of 3.05tcase w/3.7's
CR 54.73 and 65mph=2247

B) has a decent CR with an awesome highway rpm...... in indiana. unfortunately, it wont take much of a grade to overwhelm the OD at 1900rpm with a 2f. that would be nice with a 350.

C) bumps the rpms up too high on the highway. wtf is the point of the h55f if im gonna do that...

A) and D) are about the same, with A) being less work, so A wins...



comments welcome.

 

[sandcrawler]

I think looking at the whole package that (A) is the way to go - it gives you decent figures on both ends making it a reasonably capable vehicle that is livable.

 

[Zimm]

paul.

when do you wanna start work? i gotta drop the rig off for you make a parts list.

 

[Zimm]

check this out.

the prices on the gears went up 1000 bucks. which is a 1000 premium over the au price when converted...

 

[Zimm]

PAUL!!!!!!

where are ya buddy? this is not a glorious start to P.Lessure 4wd shop! ;p

 

[Zimm]

paul ripped into the rear and found some bad spider bearings....

i called Iron Pig and left a message for a new ARB.




Nick hasnt located a good source for the tcase gears with his aussi contacts, and the gears here are 1800 at sor, and 2400 at cruiser outfitters (kinda a wild price swing there....)

but either way, i need to demonstrate a need before i go and blow that much on a set of gears. so it looks like the tcase part of the project is dead for now.

on the brighter side, i think im gonna get rear bumper from MetalTech 4x4... the 33" on the back of the stock carrier bounces around way to much and has dented the rear door, so i decided on a carrier. the MT one seems pleanty beefy.

 

[pghfj40]

paul ripped into the rear and found some bad spider bearings....

I have a set of spiders & sides sitting on my workbench. You can have them if you need. Call though: I'm not on here much anymore.

Have a complete welded 3rd from the '78 w/ <50k mi on gears/bearings... $75 not good for street use. (get this and the side/spiders then you have your selectable locker... with a very slow, laborious switch time )

 

[Zimm]

I have a set of spiders & sides sitting on my workbench. You can have them if you need. Call though: I'm not on here much anymore.

Have a complete welded 3rd from the '78 w/ <50k mi on gears/bearings... $75 not good for street use. (get this and the side/spiders then you have your selectable locker... with a very slow, laborious switch time )

thanks.

this is for my red 76 never been in mud pretend wheeler. i need to get some pics.

 

[78Crusher]

ARB installed!
will be taking test drive tonight.
Scott- where do you want the huge compressor installed?

 

[Zimm]

well. the arb didnt cure the problem... on tho the next guess.

 

[pghfj40]

What are the symptoms of the problem?

 

[Zimm]

harsh vibration above 40mph. ceases when the rear DS is out. either the pinion bearing or something in the tcase.

 

[Zimm]

in other news, i took apart the Puma compressor assembly in hopes of an easy install. not to be.

i decided i dont want any of the bits outside the cab, so i mounted the compressor on the rear of the ccot center console, and im trying to figure out a way to mount the tank under the seat. the unit was a 4 bung setup, so position is a bitch. also, i gotta figure out where the hell to put the pressure switch assembly, and the tank guage. im thinking i may scrap the stock parts in favor of something simpler.

 

[pghfj40]

harsh vibration above 40mph. ceases when the rear DS is out. either the pinion bearing or something in the tcase.

Coupla thoughts...

Pinion bearing woulda been noticed during ARB install in the 3rd, especially if a reputable shop did it... plus it'd hafta be pretty nasty to cause a harsh vibe like you describe.

I assume the vibe is speed-dependent w/ higher frequency than wheel speed? (why you're assuming driveline vs tire balance or axle straightness)

If so, are flanges properly aligned for the type of dshaft you're running? (Parallel for 2-joint or in-line @ the pinion for 3-joint.)

What about dynamic flange alignment? (Pinion will rotate up 2-3 degrees when some axle-wrap due to vehicle resistance.)

Dshaft balanced? Slip joint not worn/floppy?

Is your output shaft straight? Of your xfer case!

Also, how do xfer output bearings feel w/ the dshaft removed & case 2wd in neutral? Smooth? Radial or end play?

HTH. -Ed '70FJ40

 

[PGH854runner]

Hey guys just lettin you know i had this same prob after my lift does your rear driveshaft have single-cardens or a cv on one end i had to make a cv shaft and put the cv end up at the t-case and rotate the pinion up to solve the over 40mph blues..godd luck

 

[Zimm]

Coupla thoughts...

Pinion bearing woulda been noticed during ARB install in the 3rd, especially if a reputable shop did it... plus it'd hafta be pretty nasty to cause a harsh vibe like you describe.

I assume the vibe is speed-dependent w/ higher frequency than wheel speed? (why you're assuming driveline vs tire balance or axle straightness)

If so, are flanges properly aligned for the type of dshaft you're running? (Parallel for 2-joint or in-line @ the pinion for 3-joint.)

What about dynamic flange alignment? (Pinion will rotate up 2-3 degrees when some axle-wrap due to vehicle resistance.)

Dshaft balanced? Slip joint not worn/floppy?

Is your output shaft straight? Of your xfer case!

Also, how do xfer output bearings feel w/ the dshaft removed & case 2wd in neutral? Smooth? Radial or end play?

HTH. -Ed '70FJ40

drive shaft looks good, only out 1/10,000th





paul pulled the rear shafts, so i dont kow if he noticed anything with the shafts.

 

[78Crusher]

I did not feal or notice anything wrong with the pinion bearing in the third member also I did not notice any play in the outer wheel bearings in the housing, The length of the DS could be a factor There is nothing you can do with that. I did not check the output of the T-case when I had the DS removed. The problem with that is the e-brake drum can hide some radial movement. to check that accuratey you will have to pull the drum and check the shaft.

 

[pghfj40]

drive shaft looks good, only out 1/10,000th
paul pulled the rear shafts, so i dont kow if he noticed anything with the shafts.

Wow a tenth of a mil?!? You must have some really good measuring equipment, not to mention a helluva straight, tight dshaft!

Just out of curiosity, are you're meaning that's how much it deflects in the center when:
A) it's sitting still and you shake it side to side to check the slip joint
or
B) it's rotating and that's the amount of bend (vs being straight) at the midpoint?

I would think that if there were enough bent or loose in the tcase to cause that vibe, you could feel it without disassembling the ebrake. Certainly at least with the dshaft removed and case in neutral

For that reason, I would still focus on finding a problem with the driveshaft joints, most likely something about the U-joints: non-canceling angles or else not enough clearance in the joint for the lift (is it binding?)...

BTW what/how much if any lift is on the vehicle?

Put an angle finder on the pinion companion flange, and the tcase output flange, and also the shaft itself (just at static ride height). Report back.

 

[pghfj40]

Also, have you tried swapping to known-good, well-balanced rims/tires? This is worth the effort to rule those out for sure before other heroic efforts. Maybe you should try your 100 series rims (only half kidding).

Also also, I have spare F&R dshafts from both my '78 & '70 that you could swap in (whatever fits), again just to rule out another item.