Fried my EDIC relay?

[Isaacjohnstar]

I think I may have fried my FCR or EDIC relay.

I was wiring up my EDIC in my '73 FJ40 that I am installing a '83 BJ60 3B motor in.

I finished all the wiring and connected the negative battery cable to give the cruiser power. The EDIC motor starts going like crazy rotating around going from off to on to over inject positions. I then unhook the power and start disconnecting my wiring one at a time and reconnecting the power to see if it stops.
I unhook all the power and all I have left it the ground, which I bolted to the firewall. The motor still turns when I connect the negative battery cable? What the hell

So I test the fire wall for voltage and sure enough it has 10v. I then trace all my wiring and modifications. One mod that I did was power steering. I removed the rubber rag joint and replaced it with a metal ujoint. I also used a bearing with a drilled race on the steering shaft. This removed all insulation between the blinker setup and the firewall. The blinker switch was on and giving 10v directly to the firewall.

So problem found I decide to fix that issue later and ground to the battery to wire my EDIC for now. I rewire the whole setup and test it. The EDIC now stays at off when the key is off. When turned to on I get no movement. When I turn the key and the starter engages the arm moves to the over inject position. When the engine fires I let the key fall back into the on position and the edic arm returns to the off position. I checked the voltage and the "on position" wire has volts going in to the relay when the key is in the "ON" position but none coming out of the relay.

Could the ground on the firewall to 10v have ruined the relay?
Could it have to do with the oil pressure send? I did not check the connections on that wire.

Sorry for the long winded explanation. Thanks in advance for the help.

Isaac

 

[lostmarbles]

I think I may have fried my FCR or EDIC relay.

.....The EDIC now stays at off when the key is off. When turned to on I get no movement. When I turn the key and the starter engages the arm moves to the over inject position. When the engine fires I let the key fall back into the on position and the edic arm returns to the off position.

Could it have to do with the oil pressure send? I did not check the connections on that wire...

Isaac

Hi Isaac

Your oil pressure SENDER is for your oil gauge and you should have a separate oil pressure SWITCH for your EDIC/FuelControl relay. (Although I think Toyota themselves mix up the terminology here.)

If your oil switch doesn't open because of lack of oil pressure or because it is faulty (when your engine fires up and its oil pump starts running) then your EDIC relay will detect this and make the EDIC/FuelControl motor move the IP lever to the "stop" position.

So your oil switch could indeed account for the symptoms you describe here. (Its contacts should be "normally closed" with your engine off and should open when your engine starts and your oil pressure reaches a few psi.)

You can test to see if your oil switch is the culprit easily by simply disconnecting it. (ie. Separate/break-open the spade connector at the centre of the switch.) If it is the culprit ... your engine will start AND CONTINUE TO RUN with the switch disconnected.

The locations of my "sender" and "switch" are likely to be different from yours but this pic should enable you to easily identify which is which:



Good luck



PS. Be careful.... You don't want to be running this engine for long if it has no oil pressure. (And engines that have sat for a long time are often known to have difficulty re-establishing oil pressure.)

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Thanks Tom! I'm pretty sure that the sender is what I have hooked up. Not the switch. I will check and take a pic.

 

[CarmMontana]

Anybody have any other ideas. Isaac came over to my garage, where we have been building his truck, and this oil switch fix didn't change anything.... Gotta love electronics. We would love some more ideas

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Tom do you have a wiring diagram of the oil switch wiring? I'm pretty sure I have it wired wrong. Thanks, Isaac

 

[cruiser_guy]

Carmon/Issac, if you're still having problems in a week or so let me know and I can drop down with my truck and take some readings to compare to what you're getting.

I'm in California right now.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Thanks Charles I'd definitely take you up on that if I haven't worked it out by then. Even if I do have it going by then it would be cool to have you drop by.

 

[lostmarbles]

Tom do you have a wiring diagram of the oil switch wiring? I'm pretty sure I have it wired wrong. Thanks, Isaac

Well this is what the FSM has to say for "BJ40 series" "1981 model" if that helps Isaac:



(I've extracted the EDIC part by itself)

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

So do I read this correctly? I should pull my oil switch apart, not just pull the wire off oil switch to test an see if it is bad?
The engine was in a running bj60 before I pulled it for the swap. It ran great and had no problems at all. I'm pretty sure my wiring is the culprit here. Tom do you have more pics of how yours is wired? It looks like your's has 2 wires running from the switch to the sensor and then 2 going out from the sensor?

As far as the relay getting 10.5 volts is it possible that could have fried the relay?

 

[lostmarbles]

So do I read this correctly? I should pull my oil switch apart, not just pull the wire off oil switch to test an see if it is bad?..

Sorry. My wording was bad Isaac.

No you don't need to pull the switch apart.

If the switch is faulty and thus the cause of your "failure-to-run" problem, then just pulling the wiring off it should get your engine to start and run properly.

...The engine was in a running bj60 before I pulled it for the swap. It ran great and had no problems at all. I'm pretty sure my wiring is the culprit here. Tom do you have more pics of how yours is wired? It looks like your's has 2 wires running from the switch to the sensor and then 2 going out from the sensor?....

There is just one wire going to my oil switch. But up to the oil sender unit, it is paired with the sender's wire. (ie. Up to the sender unit it "runs alongside" the sender unit's wire to share the same protection-sleeve.)

As far as the relay getting 10.5 volts is it possible that could have fried the relay?

Yes it is possible.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

On Thursday when I get to work on my cruiser again I will check some of the possible issues I have been researching. One is to try a better ground and also to actually test the individual components of the EDIC.

An the event that I need a new FCR I will probably just use a cable pull and bypass the system. I have searched but have not been able to find a thread on this or pics. Does anyone have a link for a writeup?

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

I narrowed it down to the Edic relay. I ran a $7 choke cable from napa in the stock choke position on the dash. I ran it to the front side of the injection pump and secured it with zip ties. Works like a charm!