3B IP leak diagnosis?/pics n vid

[romey]

Hi fellas,
So I j ust recently picked up a relatively low mileage 84 bj60 with 228K kms (less than 2 weeks ago)..and I just started noticing a leak in the IP. Upon inspecting the rig twice before I bought it, I made sure to look here for leaks, it was dry during both times I saw the rig, and one was a cold morning start (and no diesel odours).
Anyway, since taking ownership I noticed a puddle under the rig, smelled like diesel, and smelling diesel all over But the leaks have been intermittent. I spoke to the owner who has been quiet truthful (in my eyes) to see if he had had any issues with the Injection pump, and according to him he’s never had to touch or adjust anything on the pump (and I know he’s meticulous and would certainly have addressed this, and logged it in his maint. notes which he’s had since brand new, so I’ll believe him). Anyway, the rig’s always heated(relatively warmer) garaged parked and driven less than 10K kms/year approx. since owning it, I’ve parked it outside in the very cold…is it possible that the seals have shrunken in the cold and caused this leak? I remember that when I looked at the rig it was warmer (we had a warm spell) and now the temps dipped again to below freezing.
Anyway, lemme know what you think of the pics..
Just this morning before start up…

And after start up you see where the fuels coming out off…

vid:

I’ve used the search feature in did find a couple threads on it potentially being an easy fix, and that’s to tighten up the nuts on top of the IP (and there was some mention of colder weather affecting the seals). I’ve looked at the FSM but didn’t find any troubleshooting things, just major IP removal and calibration/testing instructions. Now, I’m a newbie when it comes to these things but eager to learn. I’d also hate to strip anything cuz I know some of these parts are almost unobtanium!
So just to make sure, if it just needs tightening up, which should I tighten? The bottom nut (A) and/or the top smaller one (B) at the base of the fuel ines going into the injectors?

So remove lock plate (C), and righty tighty the delivery valve holder (A) and/or the smaller nut above it (B)? I just want to make sure I don’t strip anything, or do it in the wrong order…
I believe (D) is a bleeder valve, that’s tight too, how ‘bout (E)? but clearly you can see the leak coming out from the delivery valve holder (in the manual it holds the delivery valve and seat which I think is the source of the leak?
I’m hoping I don’t have to go to a full IP rebuild/benchtest/recalibrate…?
I’m hoping the next newb doing a search finds this too…
I’d greatly appreciate your tips and advice!

Romey

 

[romey]

by the way, it looks to me that the lock plate (C) somehow fits at a certain angle flush with the valve holder (A) or is that just a coincidence and that it should sit lower and grabbing on to the grooved ring under holder (F)?

(never mind, upon closer look at the diagram on the manual, the lock plate holds against the grooves on (F), it just looks like they'd be flush and that would keep the 2 nuts from turning...)

. . . and i checked the primer pump and the fuel filter bleeder valve, both are snug.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Looks like you need to replace the injector valve gasket which is an easy job.part # 22149 76010

I would get a manual , I think those need to be torqued correctly. The injector valve has more torque than the injector line nut so next time you take them off,the injector line comes off without the valve turning and destroying/twisting the injector lines.

I had to buy a new set of injector lines for my 1HZ because of this

 

[romey]

thanks for the reply Rosco! so, looks like that valve gasket or "delivery valve & seat" is #2 on this diagram...

i tried to use a 22mm wrench around the valve holder (#3) and it barely fits to try and turn it, which leads me to think that the injection pipe on top has to be removed using a 17mm...it's a hard line so that means i have to take it off on the other end as well (into the injectors)...or can that slightly bend away?'

hmm, pretty gritty and grimey in there, i wouldn't be surprised if there's junk way inside too...hmm, and in 26 years, maybe i should just have it rebuilt for piece of mind, like a fresh start...that'd improve on efficiency and slight power i'm sure too.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

This is fairly common. Loosen the injector tubes and the delivery tube locking tabs and tighten the valves and then the tubes to spec. The seals are metal and usually reseal fine once tightened.

This is not related to fuel quality, that almost always applies to rotary pumps and the rubber seals that are used.


~John

 

[roalco]

Get a can of brake-kleen and spray the pump and tubes down to give yourself a nice clean area before you disrupt any of the joints on the Injector pump. You'll find a proper flare nut sockets (like a crowsfoot, but a hex with one side missing) and extension and a torque wrench makes it an easy job, and you'll only have to loosten the tube nuts, not remove them.

 

[romey]

cool, thanks for that Roalco, i was just thinking about using brake cleaner but wasn't sure if that'd contaminate anything...
so clean first,
remove lockplate
loosen injection pipe/tube nut (17mm)
tighten valve holder to spec
and tighten everything back up again

hmm debating now tho if this puppy should just get serviced and while i'm at it, get the diaphragm replaced, injectors cleaned and recalibrated...even with the mileage, not bad lasting this long tho...

 

[lostmarbles]

cool, thanks for that Roalco, i was just thinking about using brake cleaner but wasn't sure if that'd contaminate anything...
so clean first,
remove lockplate
loosen injection pipe/tube nut (17mm)
tighten valve holder to spec
and tighten everything back up again

hmm debating now tho if this puppy should just get serviced and while i'm at it, get the diaphragm replaced, injectors cleaned and recalibrated...even with the mileage, not bad lasting this long tho...

Great thread Romey!

If it was me, I wouldn't get the pump overhauled/serviced - but I would just:

• Clean the pump thoroughly (as Roalco suggests)
• Repair the leak as per the other good advice you've received
• Fit reconditioned injectors (that have been done by someone reputable so you know they have new nozzles and have had their opening pressures etc checked and adjusted)
• Replace the diaphragm

Then I reckon you should be good for another 100,000kms without needing to touch your injection system again - apart from normal fuel-filter changes and perhaps a "primer-pump change" (if you ever find it leaks while being pumped/operated).

I don't think 228,000kms warrents an expensive pump overhaul.

 

[roalco]

You've got the right idea in your list. You'll be fine, and X2 what Lostmarbles said, the inline pumps are almost bullet-proof, the only exception being if you get water in your fuel carried past the separator.
If your milage is correct, you have another squadzillion klicks before you need to redo the pump. Injectors are a good idea, by 250,000km the springs are starting to get tired and the cracking pressure has dropped. But don't panic about it, my original ones lasted fine well in to the 300,000km zone. Same as the diaphram, get the part (find a nice close diesel shop) and schedule yourself a nice sunny warm afternoon.
Mainly, get her running and get to really know her, make up list of issues and search and read here, these are awesome vehicles, don't get bogged down right off the bat!
Oh, and download the FSM's for chassis and engine, read, study and inwardly digest!!! Have fun!

 

[romey]

big thanks fellas, it's YOU guys that make this thread great! the tips here have been invaluable, and like i said, hopefully the next newb can refer to this thread and help em too.

hokay, the bare minimum is my short list (i'll have to grab that flare nut socket tool and a torque wrench 1st). so even with the age these pumps are still a-okay?? man that's pretty reliable! gotta admit though i'm close to caving for a rebuild for piece of mind and it doesn't help that free time is hard to find (being a new daddy and wife's back to work, and i work some weekends too). i may get the valve holder tightened and/or valve seat replaced, tighten them up and be fine with the injectors and diaphragm (For now)... if i get new/reconditioned injectors then i might as well do the whole shebang...just leary about planning on takin the rig to long hauls and something else happens and i go back and say i shoulda just did a whole rebuild...

(btw, will the system need to be bled and/or primed after if i do the basics?)

well, lucky enough i got both FSM's for it! been peruzing through it as well when i get the chance (maybe it should be in the bathroom, lol). other than that, a front axle job is the next big thing (the wants are a mild lift/33's . . . and a turbo, but i'm in no rush, just like the 3B! lol )

this old girl thanks you all

 

[roscoFJ73]

The system will have some air but it might start on 3 cyl and self bleed.
I wouldnt bother with a rebuild unless the other seals start leaking

 

[83bj60]

I second everyone's opinion. You don't need to overhaul the pump, these inline pumps are Toyota's most reliable injection pumps. Just find a way to get a wrench or maybe use a custom slotted socket in there and tighten it a bit more. Just don't do it if its too cold. Rather than brake cleaner (unless that's more convenient for you), I'd simply use a pressure washer. Unless of course it''s -20 where you live

 

[romey]

well, i at least tried to lossen the 17mm injector tube bolt out but it was in there solid, and it's been -15 below the last few days...i was afraid i was going to snap it so i caved and took it to a very reputable IP specialist locally. it was an honest and quick fix with just replacing the top seals which he already had in stock. it was almost -20 friday morning when i drove her in and she ran like crap, almost felt like i was running on 3 cylinders! big thanks to Giles at http://www.performancediesel.ca/ for doin a very bang up thorough job (heard about him from a fellow cruiserhead, thanks Ed!)

certainly a nice clean up job they did too.

and a special thanks to everyone again for all the excellent tips and advice. she's purrin like a kitty now and i hope it'll be a loooong while before i actually do a complete IP rebuild, definitely bought me some time.

 

[83bj60]

Very happy for you... Now how about posting a nice mp3 of the engine sound somewhere? Pretty Please!

 

[romey]

ha ha, that's the least i can do, maybe tomorrow morning on my way to work, i'll start her cold and video it, lol.

ya know, i think i can live w/o turboing this puppy, she's pullin strong and driving tight, honestly, like a brand new rig... i don't know what it is about this truck, but she's makin me forget about the even much more refined 80 series that my wife now drives! lol. she's definitely got a good soul in her (maybe the same reason i like riding vtwins more than inline 4 motorcycles... ) i definitely can't compare this vehicle to a rav 4 or some grocery getter, or any newer vehicle for that matter....and my buddies are prolly saying "why the hell did this guy get this old fugly truck?!" and they will never get it.....lol.

 

[roalco]

Glad you got it straightened out, and it's good to find an injection shop that you can trust.
And yes, there are tens of thousands of these normally aspirated beasts happily puttering their way along to extremely high mileages out there. They may not be as quick as most modern, disposable vehicles, but use the gearbox properly and they'll get you there and back, over and over and over and over again!

 

[romey]

thanks Roalco, definitely nice to have that shop nearbye. i like your terms "Modern, disposable vehicles", that's just how i feel with all the rest of them on the roads. guess time will tell how long this rig will last, i'm hoping i'll remember if and when i'll need a full IP rebuild, then i'll just resurrect this thread .

anyway, here she is starting and purrin nicely..

 

[87 HJ60]

What's the red indicator light above the tach for?

 

[romey]

that's a flux capacitor sensor....

correction, an indicator light he was gonna use with an electric fan installed to save horsepower..

btw, the delivery Valve joints in the pump were also corroded and needed lapping on a precision lapping block, something i definitely would've missed. also feel the mileage improving, i'll see at the next fill what the L/100km's lookin with our cold weather and my mostly city/suburban driving.

cheers.

 

[moosecruiser]

hey romey congrats on the fix and great thread . mr.momo pointed me here saying this looked like the same issue i was having on my rig . do you mind telling me what the parts cost you ??
see you @ the spring run.